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Li^ 



REVELATIONS 



OF 



SIBERIA. 



BY A BANISHED LADY. 



EDITED BY 

COLONEL LACK SZYRMA, 

AUTHOX or 

"LETTEB8 ON POLAND," "AlfOU I 8EK0CYA," kc. fcc. 



IN TWO VOLUMES. 
VOL. I. 



Secontr Witiitlaw, 



LONDON: 
COLBUEN ANDvOO., PUBLISHEBS, 

GKEAT HASLBOaOUGH STOEET. 
1853. 



DK 




J^5-3 



LONDON : 

Printed by Schulze and Co., 13, Poland Street. 









i 



4 
i 



a. 

{ 

i 



TO 

LORD DUDLEY COUTTS STUART, M.P, 

&c. be., 

WHOSE GENEEOUS SYMPATHY 
WITH THE EXFATBIATED AND OFFBESSED HAS ENSUBINED 

HIS NAME INDELIBLY 
IN THE MEMOBT OF ALL NATIONS, 

IB^fiese Folumes 

ABE HUMBLY INSCBIBED 
BT HIS MOST DEVOTED ADMIBEB, 

THE EDITOR. 



389597 



INTRODUCTION. 



The subject of the present work is Siberia ; 
a region dreary by nature, and not only in 
name synonymous, but actually identical with 
a vast prison — a locality associated in our 
minds with the most poignant of human 
sufferings. As such, it could only be pro- 
perly described under the influence of those 
painful impressions, and while the writer 
is writhing under the most acute mental 
agony. 

The Authoress of the present " Revelations" 
was one of the numerous exiles who are yearly 



^ Op 







vm INTRODUCTION. 

Government. In the year 1837, some emis- 
saries from abroad made their appearance in 
Russia, for the purpose, as was stated by the 
agents of the secret police, of bringing about 
a new insiurection in the Polish provinces. 
In this conspiracy, a great number of the 
first families in Lithuania, Volhynia, and other 
provinces, became implicated, and among them 
was our Authoress ; but in what manner and 
to what extent she was compromised, is not 
known, such matters never being divulged in 
Russia. To afford temporary shelter to the 
emissary on his passage, or simply to receive 
a letter from him, or from those who may 
have been in connexion with him ; or the 
casual knowledge of a. vague rumour of 
what may have occurred in some other 
locality, and not reporting it to the authori- 
ties, suffices to implicate any one as an 
accomplice in plotting against the safety of 
the State. 

The dungeons of the citadel of Warsaw, and 
those at Wilna and Kiov, were at that period 
crammed with these imhappy victims of sus- 



INTRODUCTION. IX 

picion. Our Authoress, and other ladies simi- 
larly compromised, were sent to a convent of 
Russian nuns at Kiov, where they remained 
many months, undergoing the most rigorous 
discipline that a fanatical sisterhood, especially 
if authorized by the Government, can inflict on 
their sex. After a protracted investigation, 
conducted with a barbarity peculiar to Russian 
courts, the whole affair ended, by the two 
emissaries who had arrived from abroad — 
Konarski arid Zawisza — being shot. They 
were both young men, pupils of the Uni- 
versity of Warsaw. The rest of the 
accomplices in the alleged plot were sent into 
banishment to Siberia, and had their estates 
confiscated. Their lives were spared, but each 
was subjected to the penalty of a death long 
drawn out, and to a fate from which all human 
beings shrink — death far from home, country, 
and friends. 

Among those who were thus banished from 
Kiov, was our Authoress, together with two 
other gentlewomen — one an elderly matron, 
the other, a young lady in her tenderest age. 



X INTRODUCTION. 

of a delicate frame, impaired by pining in 
prison, but, as described in this work, of a most 
amiable disposition, capable of the most gene- 
rous devotedness. 

These three gentlewomen had to make 
a most tedious and wearisome journey, dur-' 
ing the inclemency of a Russian winter, to 
Siberia. On arriving at Tobolsk, they met 
a number of other exiles, their acquaintances 
and former neighbours, who had preceded them 
thither — indeed, a whole colony of their coun- 
trymen, who had been exiled at different 
periods. The Emperor Nicholas appears,, in 
this instance, to have proved faithful to the 
threat pronounced by him after the close 
of th^ Polish war of 1831, that he would 
make a Siberia of Poland, and a Poland of 
Siberia. 

From Tobolsk, the exiles were distributed, 
in accordance with the supposed culpability 
of each, among the different penal settlements 
in Siberia. The guilt of our Authoress 
appears to have been great in the eyes of 
the authorities, as she was sentenced to be 



INTRODUCTION. XI 

sent to Berezov, a town in the farthest north ; 
while the two other ladies, companions of her 
journey, were located in a much milder climate 
in the south. This arrangement, however, 
did not meet the views of the youngest lady, 
who had become exceedingly attached to her 
friend ; and, in order not to be separated from 
her, she besought the authorities to send her 
to Berezov ; with which request, though not 
without great reluctance, they eventually com- 
plied. 

It is after her arrival at Berezov, that the 
remsffks of the Authoress acquire an incrieasing 
degree of interest. While sojourning there 
for a period of more than two years, when 
she was removed to another penal settlement, 
nothing escaped her penetrating eye in her 
intercourse with the inhabitants, whether Rus- 
sian or native. She describes their manner 
of living, their hunting and fishing expeditions, 
and their amusements at home ; their religious 
rites, festivals, popular traditions and preju- 
dices ; their articles of export and import ; 
their trade, and the mode of carrying it on 



XU INTRODUCTION. 

by barter ; the animals of the forest, and the 
birds of the air; the scanty vegetables of 
the soil, and its minerals; the temperature, 
and the phenomena of the sky ; in a manner 
at once pleasant and instructive. There is 
throughout a certain freshness about her obser- 
vations and remarks ; and the picture she 
draws of the customs, opinions, and habits 
of savage life, as contrasted with those of our 
civilized communities, will be perused with 
peculiar interest. 

Never does she allow a single murmur to 
escape her lips against the author of her banish- 
ment. Of the Emperor Nicholas, not a syllable 
is said ; his name occurs but once in the book, 
and then is mentioned indirectly, in connection 
with his son Alexander, the heir apparent. 
Even on that occasion, there is no term used 
either of eulogy or disparagement. Neither 
good nor bad is allowed to be said of the reign- 
ing family of Russsia. This she knew, and 
strictly adhered to the established rule. Of the 
Government measures, she found many that 
were wisely conceived, tending to ameliorate the 



INTRODUCTION. Xlll 

condition of the people; but she could not, at 
the same time, help deploring that they should 
be completely nullified, and prevented from 
producing any of the intended results, by the 
incapacity of the Russian officials, and especially 
by those of the inferior grade. Some of these, 
whose flagrant delinquencies came under her 
notice, she does not scruple to denounce. With 
regard to the higher functionaries, she gives 
them great credit for intelligence and hu- 
manity. 

In so far the book may be considered per- 
fectly impartial, containing nothing to excite 
the susceptibilities even of the admirers of the 
Russian Government — if any can be found in 
this country. The Polish original issued from 
the press under the rigorous domination of the 
imperial censorship, without the sanction of 
which it could not have been printed ; and it 
has since — which is rare in Russia — passed 
through two editions. It is altogether a useful 
publication, both for the native and foreign 
reader; and certainly it is creditable to the 
censorship in Russia, that permission was given 



XIV INTRODUCTION. 

for its appearance. In this respect, it contrasts 
most favourably with the censorship exercised 
over the press by other continental govern- 
ments, being not only indulgent, but, to a 
certain extent, liberal; and if the same spirit 
is followed up, it wDl not be without its 
advantages. 

Still the Polish original cannot be said to 
bear no marks of the pen of the censor. 
All compositions written under constraint are 
worded with caution and reservation, and ne- 
cessarily contain many phrases capable of a 
double meaning. These can scarcely be per- 
ceived, and never fiilly comprehended, by 
foreign readers, as by the natives, who, 
initiated in the history of events, can, as 
is commonly said, "read many things be- 
tween the lines." Moreover, in some cases, 
many things have been but lightly touched 
upon by the Authoress, and may not be clear, 
while others are so novel as to appear scarcely 
credible. 

In illustration, therefore, of the text, as well 
as the matter contained in it, the Editor has 



INTRODUCTION. XV 

thought fit to subjoin some annotations, for 
which (as they have not met the eyes of the 
censorship, and might perhaps offend the 
Russian Government) he alone, and not the 
Authoress, ought to be held responsible. The 
Authoress is a perfect stranger to the Editor. 
All his knowledge of her is derived solely from 
her work, and he has never had any commu- 
nication with her whatever. All he has been 
able to learn is that she is still living, and 
that after her return from exile she published 
other productions of her pen ; this being her 
first work. We should indeed be extremely 
grieved if our publication of her book in 
England should in any way interfere with her 
peace and comfort, and should not rather be 
an encouragement to her to resume her pen, 
for the benefit of her country and the informa- 
tion of other nations. 

The Polish original from which these volumes 
have been translated, comprises a narrative of 
events that took place between the years 1839 
and 1841 ; but, owing to the delay caused 
by the long exile of the writer, it has but 



X\l INTRODUCTION. 

recently left the press. Still this delay does 
not in the least detract from dther the im- 
portance or the novelty of the work. Siberia 
is not a country of progress ; transformation 
and changes are not effected there with the 
same rapidity as they are in Western Europe ; 
but for ages everything is stationary. Genera- 
tion afl;er generation may pass away, but the 
opinions, habits, and usages of the people con- 
tinue immutable. 

Desolate and dismal, unexplored and unex- 
plorable, as Siberia may be, it is not, as will 
be seen from this work, without its peculiar 
lineaments of sublimity, amidst all its dreariness 
and solitudes ; and a day will come when its 
ice-bound territories will be opened to civiliza- 
tion, and its forests vanish before the advances 
of freedom. We cannot conclude better than 
by quoting Sydney Yendys' lines on the Polar 
regions : 

** The earth is rock — the heaven 
The dome of a greater palace of ice, 
Russ-biiilt. Dull light distils through frozen skies 
Thickened and g^oss. Cold Fancy droops her wings. 




INTRODUCTION. XVll 

And cannot range. In winding-sheets of snow 

Ides every thought of any pleasant thing. 

I have forgotten the green earth ; my soul 

Deflowered, and lost to every summer hope, 

Sad sitteth on an iceberg at the Pole ; 

My heart assumes the landscape of mine eyes, 

Moveless and white, chill blanched with hoarest rime. 

The sun himself is heavy, and lacks cheer ; 

Or on the eastern hill, or western slope. 

The world without seems far and long ago.'' 



VOL. I. 



CONTENTS 



OF 



THE FIRST VOLUME 



CHAPTER I. 



Journey from Kiov to Tobolsk — Departure — Prostration 
— Government instructions — ^Tula — Veteran soldier 
— Iron-works — Russian currency — Murom Forest — 
Nijny Novgorod — Its fair . . .1 

CHAPTER II. 

Russian fieure — Companions in exile — Arrival at Kazan 
— Discomforts at lodgings — Visit from the Police 
Director — Visit from a Russian matron — Recollec- 
tions of Easter-day — Invitation from the landlady — 
Obstacles at departure — Aspect of the city — Variety 
of races — Costumes — A Tartar chief and his 
wife . . . • . .18 

b 2 



XX CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER III. 

Perm — New villages — Ural Mountains — ^Ekatarinburg 
— A roguish innkeeper — Post-carts — Defects of 
female education — Tumen— A national relic — To- 
bolsk — Compatriots in exile — Devotedness of a young 
lady — Departure — Inundation — Bronikov — Counter- 
order to return . . . .44 

CHAPTER IV. 

Sojourn at Tobolsk — Lower and Upper Town — ^Edifices 
— Interview with an exiled Colonel — Walks on the 
Irtish — ^Tobola — Public garden — Visit from the exile 
— Advance of spring — Breaking of ice on the Irtish 
— ^Argali deer . . . . .66 

CHAPTER V. 

Preparations for departure — Spring — ^The Upper Town 
— Ceyzik's house — Prince Gortchakoff — His removal 
to Omsk — Roman Catholic missions — A real solitude 
—Embarkation — Cabin — Farewells . . 80 

CHAPTER VI. 

Journey to Berezov — Mournful train of thoughts — 
Kutchum Khan and Yermak — Steward — Passengers 
— Samovar — Boating — Perilous adventure — Grale of 
wind — Demiansk — Increase of cold — Expanse of 
the desert — Grandeur of primitive nature . 95 



CONTENTS. XXI 



CHAPTER VII. 

Confluence of the Irtish and the Oby — Lowland and 
upland plain — ^The Tartar and the Ostiak boundary 
— Storm— Wild scenery — Stones of various colours 
in rivers — Kondisk Monastery — Soswa — Distant 
view of Berezov — Disembarkation —Aspect of the 
town . . . . .114 

CHAPTER VIII. 

The bay — Lodgings — Want of market — Sour ducks — 
Nights with day-Ught — Breakfast on water — New 
Lodgings — Supper — Arrangement of the rooms — 
Superfluous gifts — The hostess — Sudden summer 
heat . . . . . .128 

CHAPTER IX. 

Rapidity of vegetation — Preparations fcg: the fisheries 
in the Oby Ghilf — Performance of a religious rite — 
A family farewell — A touching scene — Site of Berezov 
— Streets — Structure of the houses — Churches — Burial 
places — MenzinkoVs corpse — His grave — Graves of 
other exiles — Classification of the inhabitants — Pro- 
visions — A Siberian school . . .139 

CHAPTER X. 

Mosquitoes — Visits — Bashfulness of a hostess— -A 
merchant widow's house — Objects of luxury and 



XXU CONTENTS. 

European taste — Not at home — Summer heat — 
Courtesy of the Berezovian maids — Flight — Arrival 

of Madame X A Berezovian Bloomer — A Polish 

maid-servant . . . . .153 



CHAPTER XI. 

Inland navigation — The Berezovian district — Population 
— Scantiness of cultivation — Manners and customs 
of the inhabitants — Berezovian women — Origin of 
the Berezovian Cossacks — Causes of their degenera- 
tion — ^Their military services and emoluments — ^Their 
mercantile spirit and traffic with the natives . 1 68 



CHAPTER XII. 

My child — ^Visits of guests — The Nizegorodtyow family 
— Parental 'authority — Ladies' dresses — Costumes 
peculiar to each class — ^Evils arising from change 
of class . . . / . 181 



CHAPTER XIII. 

Failing health — A Siberian merchant — Attempts at 
agriculture — Hostility to improvement — System of 
trade-r Articles of barter — Character of the natives — 
The culinary art — Young bride's first dinner-party — 



CONTENTS. XXIU 

Female education — Facility of marriage — Landed 
property — Prospects of Berezov . .190 



CHAPTER XIV. 

St. Peter's festival — ^Waygulka pic-nics — Sudden cold — 
Traces of a road — Government magazines — An 
Ostiak encampment — Description of an Ostiak yourta 
— Smell peculiar to the Ostiaks — Their diet — Ostiak 
beggars • . . .211 

CHAPTER XV. 

Terrific storm — Thoughts of home — A Siberian soir^ — 
Sumptuous supper — The stirrup cup . . 223 

CHAPTER XVI. 

Marriage ceremony — Death of Colonel Krzyzanowski — 
News from home — Paulina's letter — Impressions 
during a walk .... 236 

CHAPTER XVII. 

Early Autumn — Water excursion — Sand-hanks — High 
tides — ^Autumnal aspect of Berezov — Solitary walk 
in the forest — Shamanic worshippers of larch-trees 
— Account of a woman who lost her way in the 
forest ..... 251 



XXIV CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER XVIII. 

The library at Tobolsk — Popularity of novels at Berezov 
— Tale-tellers — Samoiedes — Their tents, habits, and 
religion — Tragic incident at Samarov — Kapustka 
f^te— Anna Piotrowna — Public opinion on seduction 
— Alarm at the appearance of a bear . . 273 



REVELATIONS OF SIBERIA. 



CHAPTER I. 

Journey from Kiov to Tobolsk — Departure — Prostration 
— Government instructions — Tula — Veteran soldier 
— Iron-works — Russian currency — Murom Forest — 
Nijny Novgorod — Its fair. 

On the 11th of March, old style, 1839, I 
left Kiov. The sun was shining in all his 
brilliancy, yet the cold was intense, and no signs 
of the approach of spring were as yet visible. 
We passed the Dnieper which was still ice- 
bound, in a sledge, by the road leading to Orel, 
and thus I set out on my long journey. 

No sooner had we crossed the Dnieper, than 
the post-honses commenced a gallop. I still 
tried to catch one more glimpse of Kiov, gazing 

VOL. I. B 



2 REVELATIONS 

towards that ancient city again and again. At 
last it vanished in the dimness of distance, and 
then, unconscious of all around me, I could 
neither see nor hear anything. The only out- 
ward impressions that \ was yet capable of 
receiving were the continuous ringing of the 
bells on the post-horses, ceaselessly tinkling in 
my ear, and the violent jerks and jolts when 
the sledge was tumbling up and down, over 
ruts and deep snow-holes on the road. These 
interruptions in some degree aroused me for a 
time from my state of abstraction and complete 
torpor ; but at last even tjiey ceased to produce 
the slightest impression on me. Arrivals at 
the station-houses, relays of horses, and number- 
less upsettings of the sledge, did indeed remind 
me at times of external objects ; but then, 
an excruciating headache, an acute pain in all 
the joints of my body, and the shortness of 
time in which post-horses were again fastened 
to the sledge, did not allow me an instant for 
observation ; for no sooner had the bells begun 
to tinkle, than the sledge was again on its 
rapid breath-stifling course, leaping in and out 
of holes and hollows, tumbling over ruts, and 
thus, without interruption, continuing on — on 



OF SIBERIA. 3 

— on — ^from day till night, from night till day, 
vdthout a single intermission. 

At the commencement, I found my journey 
quite intolerable, as I could never sleep in 
traveling. Hence it . may be imagined that 
my weariness was extreme, and that a few hours 
of rest had become absolutely necessary to 
recruit my failing strength. After travelling 
for two days and nights, on arriving at a 
station for the relay of horses, I alighted from 
the sledge and entered the post-house. Com- 
pletely exhausted, I sank on the nearest bench, 
hoping to procure some repose, though it were 
only for one short hour. But from the agony 
of my mind, all my endeavours to snatch a 
little sleep proved ineflfectual, for although my 
body was, from sleeplessness, in a wretched 
state of prostration, my mind, to my great 
distress, continued all the while active, and 
- kept me awake. 

While I was undergoing such indescribable 
torture, my guard entered the room, and with 
an authoritative air insisted that I should im- 
mediately rise, as he had no time to lose on 
my journey, and I might very well take my 
,rest in the sledge. Irritated at his peremp- 

B 2 



4 REVELATIONS 

tory tone — not unlike a steed when made res- 
tive — I refused to obey, and, indeed, from my 
extreme debility, T could not instantly rise from 
the place where I had hoped I should be enabled 
to get a moment's rest. The master of the 
post, an old superannuated officer of the Rus- 
sian army, and a Russian by birth, looked with 
pity on my wretched condition, and mistrusting 
my guard, demanded to see his instructions. 
On perusing the document, he immediately 
perceived that the guard was abusing his power, 
as, on account of my sex and my age, the 
Government instructions had been framed in a 
considerate manner, and I, evidently, was not 
consigned to my escort, without restraint being 
imposed on them, mitigating to some extent, 
and as circumstances might .require, the seve- 
rity of ordinary regulations. The document 
containing these instructions, the humane officer 
read aloud in my presence, that I might under- 
stand my position. Thus accidentally, and 
for the first time, I was informed exactly 
what were my obligations, and how far I 
was protected. Henceforward I could travel 
more comfortably, and more at my ease ; 
and as often as I felt much fatigued, 



OP SIBERIA. 5 

I made my escort halt, to allow me re- 
pose. 

This was but the begmning of my journey ; 
yet when I retraced in my mind the distance 
I had traversed, and the fatigue I experienced 
on the route— when I looked back, and on- 
ward, comparing the distance already completed 
witli the immense space that still lay before me, 
I felt despondent beyond expression. I thought 
of the trials which might be awaiting me on 
the road, and my courage sank. Yet there is 
nothing to which man may not, in the end, 
be accustomed ; nothing which he may not be 
brought to endure. Ere a week had elapsed, 
my ardent imagination had considerably cooled, 
and become more hopeful. My frame, also, 
had lost much of its former susceptibility, and 
I could easily bear up against fatigue. Now I 
calmly resumed my seat in the sledge, without 
betraying the least sign of impatience, without 
fretting, without any aversions ; but, as if such 
was my daily business, and had long been the 
ordinary routine of my life. 

I had no curiosity respecting the country 
through which we passed, or impatience to 
change one spot for another — peculiarities pos- 



6 REVELATIONS 

sessed generally by traveflers, but absolutely 
unfelt by me. In the extraordinary situation in 
which I was, I could experience no kind of 
pleasurable emotion, and I viewed all things 
with utter indifference. I found nothing to 
hurry me on— nothing that was worthy to en- 
gage my attention, or to stimulate my curiosity. 
I felt no desire, whatever, to see any of the 
places or the scenery on the road. My wishes 
were never outstripping — were never in advance' 
of my sledge. My hours were quite at liberty 
to pass by as they pleased ; my will had no 
share, no interest in them. 

In this frame of mind, I had traversed a 
great part of the territory of the government 
of Tchemiechov, and crossed the extensive 
steppes of the government of Orel, so called 
from the city of that name, situated on the 
river Oka, and at length arrived at Tula. 
While the horses were being changed at this 
town, I entered the post-house, driven in by 
the cold, from which I was suffering severely. 
Here I happily found an old soldier of the 
Minsk regiment of infantry, who some time 
back, when that regiment was stationed in our 
province, had his quarters in a village belong- 



OF SIBERIA. 7 

ing to myself. This circumstance, trifling as 
it may appear, made us consider each other 
in the light of old acquaintances ; such as had 
seen the same objects and places, or, at least 
had some reminiscences in common, which 
alone speaks volumes to those who, removed 
from their native place, happen to meet in 
a distant land. I shall for ever remember 
the few moments of conversation I had with 
the veteran soldier. 

In the reception room, at the same post- 
house, my attention was not a little attracted 
by various articles from the iron manufactory 
of Tula, admirable for their polish and lustre. 
They formed an agreeable exhibition, and were 
evidently exposed to view as a bait to tra- 
vellers — such, at least, they were to me. 
Charmed by the display, I experienced a 
strong desire to make a choice of some of 
the more useful of the articles, and take 
them with me as souvenirs from Tula. I 
thought, too, they would be of service to me, 
as I was going to a country which scarcely 
possessed any manufactures; and having but 
little luggage, they would be no incumbrance. 
I made a selection of such as I considered 



8 REVELATIONS 

would prove most serviceable for female work, 
as knives, scissors, bodkins, and such other 
trifling articles, and a seal, bearing a well- 
known larch tree for its symbol.* After I 
had duly settled my accoimt, and was left 
alone, I was examining my purchases, and 
admiring their exquisite workmanship, when 
I fancied I heard a cautious step behind me, 
as though somebody was approaching, and 
suddenly felt a small roll of paper thrust 
into my hand. I instantly turned round, and 
beheld the veteran soldier, but he had already 
glided away, and now stood at a distance. 
He cast a significant glance at me, but was 
silent. " There is some mystery in all this," 
thought I ; but I made no remark. 

Curiosity is never more alive or more acute, 
than when it is stimulated by secrecy. I thrust 
the roll of paper in my pocket, waiting for 
some favourable opportunity when I could read 
it unobserved, without running the risk of 
compromising the giver of it. I longed for 
this opportimity, and as soon as I saw my- 

* The larch-tree is symbolical of Siberia; and, in 
this place, identical with banishment to that country. 



OF SIBERIA. 9 

self alone, I unfolded the crumpled paper, 
and read in Russian characters, traced some- 
what clumsily, as follows : 

" In paying hills, attend to the paper cur- 
rency, which is diflferent in this country. You 
paid two roubles more than you ought. To 
prevent your being cheated in other places, 
I enclose for you * Tables of the currency.' " 

After perusing the scrawl, I signified with a 
grateful look my thanks to the kind-hearted 
veteran. Afterwards I tried to make out in what 
manner I had been imposed upon, but could 
not unravel it; having made my bargain in 
copper assignats of the currency, and paid the 
amount due in the same coin. Perplexed by 
my calculations, I watched again for an oppor- 
tunity to speak to the veteran, and obtain from 
him more accurate information on the subject. 
From his expknation, I found the system of 
currency in those parts to be so strange and 
so intricate, that without the aid of the 
Tables, and some notion of other technicalities, 
it was quite unintelligible. Not a single species 
of monetary currency, neither that of boumashkiy 
as the paper assignats are called, nor that of 
silver or copper, circulated according to its 



1 KEVELATIONS 

nominal or real value. It is true that in making 
the accounts, it was customary to reduce all to 
copper assignats as a fixed standard ; but in 
the payment of bills amounting to twelve such 
assignats, only ten assignats were to be paid, 
and the matter was considered as settled. Why 
it was so, is to this day a perfect puzzle to me, 
and I am at a loss to accoimt for it. As to 
silver coin in circulation, it was not taken ad 
valorem^ but in its relative value to the copper 
assignats ; and this computation had somehow 
become so complicated by the fractional reduc- 
tions of the kopekSy that it was quite impossible 
to get out of the maze of confusion, except 
with the aid of the Tables, or by means of long 
practice. 

Quite at a loss to comprehend the wisdom of 
such a monetary system, and still le^ to ap- 
preciate its expediency, but considering that 
on my farther journey the information might 
be very useful, I humbly bowed to my informant, 
and put his Tables, with which he had the kind- 
ness to provide me, into my pocket ; and I had, 
indeed, frequent occasion to consult them. I 
cannot say that the knowledge of my having 
been cheated had on this occasion been of any 



OF SIBERIA. 1 1 

avail; for no sooner had the vender of the 
articles pocketted the money, than he vanished, 
and I did not see his face again. 

I should like to have seen the whole of Tula, 
which appeared to be a flourishing city ; and 
I particularly wished to visit its iron foundries, 
and other manufacturing establishments, but 
I soon found how idle were all my aspirations. 
The implacable tinkling of bells began again 
to ring in my ears, accompanied by my guard's 
ill-omened song, ending in the customary re- 
frain^ " Onwards — onwards — onwards " 

Tula, as far as I was able to judge from its 
exterior, is a beautiful town. It has broad 
streets, houses with iron balconies and iron 
gates, and gardens enclosed with railings, which 
make it appear fresh and neat, and altogether 
very picturesque. Its environs, however, failed 
to leave any such agreeable impression on my 
memory. Immense steppes, covered with snow, 
like vast winding-sheets, extended on all sides 
as far as the eye could reach. For many hun- 
dred versts on my route, no town, no village, 
and, indeed, no decent or tenable human habi- 
tation presented itself; and all that could be 
descried on that vast desert, were solitary willows, 



1 2 REVELATIONS 

standing at great distances from each other on 
the road, not so much to border it, as to 
indicate the way to the traveller. 

From Tula our way led to Kazan. This 
town passed, we approached the great Murom 
Forest, celebrated in innumerable wonderful 
stories and ancient traditions, circulating among 
the people. The Murom Forest is especially 
renowned as the scene of countless robberies 
and murders, perpetrated in old and modem 
times. The imagination of the neighbouring 
people seems never to weary of creating all 
sorts of new stories of this kind, or to embellish 
old ones. Post-masters and drivers, with fancy 
more or less poetical, and ever inclined to 
Oriental exaggeration, here, on this one theme, 
act the part of national bards, and recount 
these dismal tales with the greatest eagerness 
to the astounded and fascinated traveller. 

I had much pleasiu'e in listening to these 
wild stories, in so far as they appeared to be the 
fruit of a national poetry— originating naturally 
from a local source — and were not a mere 
offspring of imagination, artificially kindled and 
excited. Still, in spite of the strong impression 
they produced on my fellow-travellers and our 



OF SIBERIA. 13 

military escort — spite of the solemn and 
earnest character of their preparations, such as 
loading muskets, and searching for all possible 
weapons of defence, before we entered the 
dreadful forest — spite of all these measures of 
precaution, and the alarm which I detected in 
all coimtenances, I, for my part, felt not the 
least apprehension. 

There exist certain situations apt to exalt 
man above all events incidental to every-day 
life, rendering him wholly inaccessible to all such 
emotions as fear. Placed in such circum- 
stances, we acquire a marvellous degree of 
independence, enabling us to look with contempt 
and utter indiflference on what may cause dismay 
and alarm to others ; although at other times, 
and under diflferent circumstances, we should 
alike experience some disquietude. This con- 
dition, which raises us above the ordinary 
incidents of life, is our strength, our delight 
in misfortune, and was now my best consola- 
tion. 

We traversed the Murom Forest, the great 
theme of so many disquieting stories, in 
perfect safety, without undergoing any of the 
dreaded adventures; and indeed, after jour- 



14 REVELATIONS 

neying over such an extent of steppes, tiresome 
by their monotony, I might almost say that it 
afforded me a certain degree of pleasure. I 
remember I felt much relieved amid the 
grandeur of the sylvan scenery ; and instead 
of meeting fierce bands of robbers, I saw 
only a variety of birds, flying singly or in 
flocks over our heads, and woodcocks dangling 
like as many caps on the branches of birch 
trees. The flapping of their wings, while these 
birds were flying from tree to tree, scared at 
the approach of human beings, was the only 
sound heard in the silent solitude of the im- 
mense forest. The sight of these beautiful 
birds, which were very numerous, made the 
blood of my Lithuanian heart glow with earlier 
feelings — and mine was the blood of the ancient 
huntsmen of Lithuania. I sprang up from my 
seat in the sledge, without knowing wherefore ; 
while the woodcocks, with a quiet and indif- 
ferent look, gazed on us from the trees near 
the road, as if to mock my inability to reach 
them. Every time we saw such flocks of these 
feathered tribes, an exclamation of delight burst 
from me, and for the moment I forgot my 
situation and my sorrows. 



OF SIBERIA. 15 

Having traversed the Murom Forest, we ap- 
proached the banks of the Wolga, and at last 
arrived at Nijny Novgorod, a city far famed for 
its fairs. As we drew nigh, the mass of build- 
ings had the appearance of two separate towns, 
quite distinct from each other; the Wolga in- 
tersecting and running between them. The 
one division was full of activity, business, and 
animation ; the other regularly built, neat, ,and 
cleanly, but lifeless, without bearing any marks 
either of antiquity, or devastation by time. 
Quiet, immovable, and buried beneath snow, 
that part of the city appeared in a somnolent 
torpor, as if under the power of enchantment, 
and in its first form of youth, fi-eshness, and 
grace, waiting for ages the arrival of that 
deliverer whose destiny it was to disenthral 
it, and restore it to life and action. 

After contemplating the silent scene for a 
few moments, I rubbed my eyes, and looked 
again, but all I saw remained an enigma. I 
asked myself what could have happened. Had 
the breath of plague passed over the city with 
its blighting influence ? Though it was appa- 
rently so fresh, and presented not a sign of 
decay, still all was solitary and dead ! 



1 6 REVELATIONS 

The mystery was soon cleared up. The por- 
tion of the city where we put up, was the 
place where the celebrated fair is held, called 
Makariev Fair, after the town of Makariev, 
whence it had been transferred to Nijny Nov- 
gorod in 1817. It lasts five weeks ; and during 
this season, that part of the town becomes the 
mart for the productions and manufactures 
brought from all Europe and Asia, for sale or 
barter. The Wolga, by which the Baltic is 
united with the Caspian Sea, carries to this 
place merchandise from the south and the west. 
Here, the Calmucks, Persians, and Bukharians, 
come with the produce of their own country ; 
the Chinese, with their tea and silks ; the Sibe- 
rians, with their furs and curious collections of 
precious stones. These and the like articles 
of raw produce, and the other riches of Asia, 
are exchanged for the choice commodities of 
Europe. It cheered me to see that, by means 
of commerce on the very spot where I then was, 
and which I saw so benumbed and almost dead, 
intercourse was yet maintained between so many 
nations, differing in origin, customs, language, 
and religion; in the colour of their skin and 
in their dress ; in their physiognomy and civili- 



OF SIBERIA. 17 

zation. Divided by nearly the whole of the 
globe, they here meet together on friendly 
terms, and become acquainted with each other, 
and humanized. 

The busy half of the city, which, at that 
time, was but just covered with snow, is awake 
and alive only for a few weeks. During this 
short period, however, all is activity and bustle 
within its precincts. Merchants from far and 
near congregate in the streets ; hotels, houses, 
and huts swarm with a moving mass of strangers, 
and are overstocked with wares. For these few 
weeks of her existence, the disenchanted city 
lives a longer life than her sister, on the oppo« 
site shore, during the whole year. 



VOL. I. 



1 8 REVELATIONS 



CHAPTER II. 

Russian fare — Companions in exile — Arrival at Kazan 
— Discomforts at lodgings — Visit from the Police 
Director — Visit from a Russian matron — Recollec- 
tions of Easter- day — Invitation from the landlady— 
Obstacles at departure — Aspect of the city — Variety 
of races — Costumes — A Tartar chief and his wife. 

At Nijny Novgorod, having provisioned our- 
selves with bread and other necessaries, as, on 
account of the approaching Great Lent we could 
hardly expect to obtain at post-stations anything 
but barshtch,* with oil, gruel, and sour-krout, 

* Barshtch is made of beet-root, as sour-krout is of 
cabbages, set in fermentation, namely, by the following 
process : A quantity of fresh-pulled beet-root is put in 
an earthen pan filled with water, and loaves of rye 



OF SIBERIA. 19 

all which are but meagre fare, we continued 
our route on the ice-bound Wolga to Kazan. 
I have used the pliu^l number, because I left 
Kiov simultaneously with Madame Pauline 
Wilczopolska and Miss Josephine Rzonzewska, 

flour are added to create fermentation. A cover is put 
over the pan, and hermetically closed with a rim of 
soft paste, to prevent the air from entering. It is then 
set in a warm place for ten days, after which it will 
draw out vinegar from the beet- root, very red and sour. 
To make a dish of barahtch, various other ingredients, 
as onions, celery, cloves, pepper, bayleaves, &c., are 
added, to make it savoury. It may be boiled with every 
kind of meat ; and on Lenten days with cream and oil, 
which is the Russian way, and not relished by our 
authoress. Many other unknown dishes are mentioned 
in her book — some even described by her ; and receipts 
for others, as the Polish cake, baby, barshtch, and the 
Russian shtchy, or sour-krout, may be found in Mr. 
Bregion's " Practical Cook." The ingredients, and the 
mode of preparation of the latter, as stated in that book, 
are so various and so expensive, that dishes so prepared 
are real dainties, calculated solely for seignorial or royal 
tables. The late Emperor Alexander relished the 
barshtch, and so many do : it is, like sour-krout, me- 
dicinal and anti- scorbutic, and much nicer. The Rus- 
sian dishes, as referred to by our authoress in her 
book, must be presumed to have been quite different, 
and consisting of more simple compounds. — £o. 

C 2 



20 REVELATIONS 

who were my travelling companions. Both these 
ladies were destined for other places ; but we 
were to travel together on the same route as 
far as Tobolsk. 

We arrived at Kazan on Good Friday. 
Being tired, famished, and exhausted, we re- 
solved to profit by the indulgences granted in 
the instructions, and rest awhile . in this city, 
at least during the Easter festival. We com- 
municated our joint wishes to the Sergeant, our 
principal guard, and as they coincided with 
his own, he readily agreed to them. It was, 
however, necessary to go first through certain 
forms, and having arranged measures with us, 
he left us in the sledge in the public street, 
commending us to the surveillance of his 
subalterns, and went to present himself to the 
authorities, to deliver his despatches, and re- 
ceive farther orders. We waited his return 
with undissembled impatience, and strove to 
amuse ourselves meanwhile, by looking at the 
town. But, as ill luck would have it, darkness 
came on, enveloping every object, and so even 
this resource was denied us. 

Two, three, and four hours passed, and still 
the sergeant did not make his appearance. 



OF SIBERIA. 21 

The darkness of night did not, as may be 
fancied, in the least diminish our impatience. 
Hunger, cold, and prostration of body and mind, 
and the vehement curses of the postillion, who 
was likewise worn out by long waiting, added 
beyond measure to our sufferings. At last, the 
postillion advised us to take shelter in some inn, 
or a shed, and not remain in the street to perish 
with cold and hunger; but our guardian 
escort would not hear of such a proposition, but 
insisted that we should remain where we were 
till their commander arrived. Even they, how- 
ever, were worn out eventually, and we were 
suffered to put up at an inn. 

It was now about ten o'clock ; and no sooner 
did we enter the room, and felt the genial 
warmth than we entirely forgot our other 
wants, being seized with an overwhelming incli- 
nation to sleep, which involuntarily closed our 
eyes. A carpet spread on the floor, and a 
pillow under our heads, was the extent of our 
wishes — the earthly paradise our hearts sighed 
for ; and directly we kid down, we sank into a 
profound sleep. 

It was not, however, long before we were, to 
our great annoyance, disturbed by our sergeant. 



'^..> 
i.<^ 



22 REVELATIONS 

who brought us otherwise agreeable news, 
namely, that the authorities had complied with 
our wishes, and that quarters were ready for 
us, but that we must proceed to them imme- 
diately. We besought permission to pass the 
remainder of the night where we were, but our 
entreaties were in vain. We were answered 
that this was impossible, and that an officer was 
waiting in the adjoining room who was to see 
us to our assigned lodgings. We saw there 
was no remedy, and that we must quit our 
warm chamber, resign our cherished pillows, 
and go to the new quarters. Accordingly we 
got up and collected our luggage, consoling our- 
selves with the thought that for all this trouble, 
we should in the end be indemnified by undis- 
turbed rest during the following two days. 

It did not take long to pack up, so that the 
officer who was to accompany us, and who 
was very considerate, was not kept waiting. 
But another annoyance was in store for us. At 
midnight it was not easy to find horses, and 
our own post-horses were gone. Through the 
activity, however, of our Sergeant, united to the 
efforts of the officer, all difficulties were at last 
overcome. 



OF SIBERIA. 23 

On arriving at our quarters it was past two 
o'clock, and we found ourselves in a house 
which had long been uninhabited, and which 
gave forth a damp and musty odour, so op- 
pressive as scarcely to suffer us to breathe. 
The walls were mouldy, and reeked with mois- 
ture, and were covered with a swarm of black 
worms, known in Lithuania by the name of 
prusaki (Prussians), and in Russia by that of 
tardkany ; amongst which huge black cock- 
roaches — a different species of insect from the 
former — crawled, not unlike officers among 
soldiers, in various directions on the wall. 

At this miserable spectacle a thrill of 
horror crept over my frame. The idea of a 
struggle at night, and in the dark, with whole 
hosts of such hideous vermin, appeared to us 
beyond the possibility of endurance ; and we all 
beseechingly implored the indulgence of the 
officer to be allowed to pass the night in sledges, 
in the open court yard, where we could at 
least breathe freely, and be unmolested by such 
horrid creatures. The officer felt embarrassed 
by our request, and we could see that he sincerely 
desired, as far as it depended on him, to secure 
us a comfortable night's rest. 



24 REVELATIONS 

" I acted for the best," he said, " in 
bringing you here. I certainly could have 
taken another house, which was dry and clean ; 
but reflecting that as you arrived yesterday 
perishing with . cold, you might wish above all 
things for warm rooms, I chose this ; for the 
other house is exceedingly cold." 

*' Even if a thousand times colder, if there 
be such, let us go," we all cried, as with one 
voice. 

The officer instantly ran outside to give 
orders not to carry down the things. He 
soon returned, and said that the horses were 
already taken out of the sledges, but that he 
had ordered them to be put in again. We 
thanked him, and oflfered to go on foot, if but 
to draw breath in the open air; and thus 
leaving our sledges behind, we proceeded, led 
by the officer to the other house. We soon 
arrived there, and were satisfied with it; for 
though very cold, we found that at least it 
was clean and dry. The officer who had so 
kindly escorted us now took leave; and we 
once more set about preparing our beds. 

Before we finished our arrangements it was 
near daylight, and whether owing to our shifting 



OF SIBERIA. 25 

from place to place, or our consequent agitation, 
our inclination for sleep had by this time for- 
saken us. But reflecting that we had an entire 
day for rest, we closed the window-shutters, 
and threw ourselves on our couches, the more 
joyfully as we felt confident that we should not 
be disturbed by any summons for departure. 
For some time we sought to console and 
comfort each other, and felt so soothed by 
our efforts that eventually we fell into a sweet 
slumber ; and I know not how long we should 
have enjoyed it, had we not been suddenly 
aroused by a violent knocking at our door. 
We then heard our Sergeant's voice outside, 
announcing that the Director of the Police had 
come, and wanted to speak to us. We imme- 
diately started up and opened the window- 
shutters; and then, with the utmost dispatch, 
arranged oiu" travelling toilette, and expressed 
our readiness to receive the important func- 
tionary. 

On entering, the Director of the Police in- 
quired very civilly how we were satisfied with 
our quarters, and whether we had slept well. 
We, in our turn, politely answered that we were 
perfectly satisfied. 



26 REVELATIONS 

" I very much rejoice that it is so," said he, 
" and since you no longer feel fatigue, you will, 
my ladies, be prepared to set out this day on 
your further joxuney." 

We cast on each other a look of extreme 
disappointment. So much trouble, worry, 
and vexation — and all this for nothing : not 
even one single day of repose after a sleepless 
night, were the thoughts that flitted through 
our minds. 

" I am not sure, Sir," said I, at length ; 
"but you might, perhaps, know, that by the 
instructions regulating our journey, we are 
allowed some moments for repose, if we require 
it, in all government towns. We, therefore, 
firmly rely on the favourable tenor of the 
regulations, that this will be conceded to us, 
and we have no suspicion, Sir, that you will 
try to infringe them." 

" This is all true," said he. " You certainly 
have this permission granted to you, ladies, 
by the regulations. Still, as you have already, 
to all appearance, taken sufficient rest from 
your journey, you will not, I hope, be the 
worse for continuing it to-day further." 

To this I said not a word. The func- 



OP SIBERIA. 27 

tionary seemed to have expected further com- 
plaints or solicitations, when he might have 
relented and yielded ; but, after a few moments' 
pause, observing nothing but resignation and 
silence, he said : 

" Well, then, to please you, ladies, I permit 
you to remain here a few hours longer." We 
received his decree with deference; and he 
then took leave. 

Vexed, disappointed, and quite worn out with 
fatigue, we commenced packing, determined 
not to be again tempted, even if occasion 
offered, to stop on the road; but, however 
wearied we might be, continue our journey, as 
nothing could be so harassing as these inter- 
ruptions. 

Calling in our Sergeant, we announced that 
we were instantly to leave the place. But 
all around seemed to be engrossed with the 
sole idea of Easter, and how to pass it joy- 
fully: nobody was preparing for the journey, 
or cared to stir. The clerks in the public 
offices, and the postillions, thought of nothing 
but the blithesome festival ; and so, taking our 
seats on our luggage, we awaited the result. 



28 REVELATIONS 

not knowing what to do. Suddenly the door 
opened, and we received an unexpected visit. 

A respectable elderly matron entered the 
room. I forget her name, though she an- 
nounced it on presenting herself. She was the 
widow of a Russian colonel, and had been 
at Warsaw with her husband when his regiment 
was quartered in the neighbourhood. She 
had then formed many acquaintances in that 
city, and could not forget the happy days 
she had spent in Poland. On being apprised 
of our arrival from that remote country, 
without any friends or acquaintance in this 
foreign land, she came to assure us of her 
sympathy, and, according to the custom of 
the place on Easter-day, to present us with a 
red egg. 

Expressing our sincere thanks to the worthy 
matron for her courtesy, we accepted her kind 
present, wishing her many happy returns of 
the season, and we had the pleasure of 
half an hour's most interesting conversation 
with her. After she left us, and we were 
again given up to our reflections, the sight of 
the painted eggs brought innumerable recol- 



OF SIBERIA. 29 

lections into our minds — all connected with 
this mirthful though solemn festival, as 
commemorated in our own country. There 
all the days are devoted to acts of hospi- 
tality — to meetings with relatives and friends. 
During that happy period, the aged and young 
assemble at festive boards exchanging mutual 
remembrances, and contracting new links or 
sympathies. Associations are then formed 
ineffaceable from memory, and for ever dear to 
the heart. 

While we thus indulged in silent communion 
with ourselves, the animal nature of man,, 
. with its inferior cravings, started up on the 
scene. Hunger failed not to call up far 
different associations and recollections; and, 
along with these, a train of enjoyments — as, 
tables covered with a variety of viands — fat 
hams, roasted pigs, stuffings, and sausages ; 
and a profusion of delicious cakes, the famous 
baby, and the mazurki. These various deli- 
cacies presented themselves to our imagination 
in vivid colours, and with their ambrosial 
odour and aroma of spices, quite captivated our 
senses. We then experienced that nothing so 



30 REVELATIONS 

powerfully excites the imagination as a famished 
stomach. 

The eggs, which the Colonel's dowager had 
kindly presented us, were swallowed in a twink- 
ling, with a voracity not easy to be described. 
Poor dame ! she little suspected that, in per- 
forming usual formalities, she had administered 
to our wants. But her gift was not unlike a 
fly snatched by a voracious dog, so little did it 
satisfy our craving appetite. We instantly called 
our Sergeant, and begged him to send somebody 
to the market to fetch some ham, sausages, 
rolls, or whatever could be got in the town. 

" There is no market to-day," was his answer. • 
" Besides, no such things are sold here." 

" How ! Is there no food to be had then ?" 
I asked. 

" I do not know," he replied. 

" Surely, neither you nor your companions 
can exist without food ?" 

" We ordered our landlady to furnish us with 
some eatables." 

.*' Ask her, then, to do the same for us." 

" But you, ladies, will, perhaps, not relish the 
fare which we eat." 



OF SIBERIA. 31 

" You are jesting," I replied. " Those, who 
are perishing of hunger, can they be fasti- 
dious?" 

The Sergeant left us to give his orders. 
Meanwhile our meditations involuntarily recurred 
to our own country, and the Easter festivities 
of our native homes. What an abundance, 
during that season, exists everywhere, from 
the stately palace to the humblest hut ! With 
what cordial hospitality the traveller, frequently 
a complete stranger, is welcomed even by the 
poorest man, to partake with him and his family, 
of the consecrated egg and of his household 
meal ; the host rejoicing that Heaven had sent 
him a guest. And thus all, be they rich or 
poor, are satiated with the good things which 
a bountiful Providence has vouchsafed. At 
these reminiscences a sigh arose, and I inwardly 
prayed that God would preserve my country 
from being contaminated with foreign manners, 
that this national custom might never be obli- 
terated — a custom which has, for ages, united, 
with such a beautiful link, hospitality and the 
observances of religion. 

In the midst of these meditations, we were 
interrupted by the entrance of our landlady, a 



32 REVELATIONS 

person belonging to the burgher class of Kazan. 
Without any preamble, she announced, with the 
greatest simplicity imaginable, that she had a 
number of friends in the house, and as they 
were all desirous of seeing what Polish ladies 
were lik6, asked whether we would not come 
down stairs to give them that pleasure ; and 
we might, at the same time, see what eatables 
she had that would please us, as she knew 
not our customs or tastes. 

We looked at each other, and could not help 
smiling. We were desired to act the part of 
theatrical figurantes, neither more nor less, 
before the descendants of the Tartars. Our 
self-respect had been aroused and hurt ; but 
it soon yielded to a frolicsome mood. " What 
harm can there be," we began to reason within 
ourselves, "in becoming for awhile objects of 
curiosity to people of whom we know nothing ? 
Are they not willing to repay us with recipro- 
city? sight for sight — spectacle for spectacle. 
Such is the way, and such is the daily routine 
of the world. In fine, we shall be made par- 
takers of their benit'^* Having arrived at this 

* The benit, Polish swiencone, is a custom peculiar to 
Poland, and in part also to Russia. After the Great 



OF SIBERIA. 33 

laudable resolution, we answered that we would 
comply with her request, and would soon come 
down stairs. 

No sooner had our hostess passed the door, 
than each of us thought of nothing but her 
toilet. We unpacked, and endeavoured as well 
as we could to arrange our dresses, which, after 
a fortnight's travelling, had, as may be imagined, 
neither freshness nor elegance to recommend 
them ; but to make up for that, we resolved 
to render them at least as smart as possible, 
which being done we descended, as we had 
promised, to gratify the curiosity of the impa- 
tient public. 

We entered the room, and were led to a 
place of honour, where we seated ourselves. 
Some conventional inquiries were made of us, 
which we civilly answered, and were then silent. 
But to my shame, be it confessed, I was not 

Lent, terminating on Easter-day, no meat is touched, 
even on that day, until it has been blessed and con- 
secrated by the priest; whence the natne benit (bene- 
diction) was derived. The display of the viands of all 
sorts on that occasion is very great ; and the tables are 
not only sumptuous, but are kept open for friends, and 
even for strangers. Easter is, on that account, a day of 
unbounded hospitality. 

VOL. I. D 



34 REVELATIONS 

satisfied with the charm of exchanging my ideas 
with the company, but looked right and left to 
see if there was a table which would promise 
some more substantial fare. To my chagrin, 
however, I was unable to catch a sight of any- 
thing like the longed for benit. 

All I could see was a table at the window, 
opposite the door, covered with a clean white 
cloth (emblematic of the festival), on which were 
arranged three small plates, one containing a 
frozen apple cut in tiny slices spread over, with 
sugar ; another embellished with a few rasins ; 
and the third containing some kind of nuts, in 
shells, or rather husks, of chesnut-brown colour. 

The hostess took up these, one plate after 
another, from the table, and presented us with 
the contents of each. She entreated, and 
pressed us to partake of them; but notwith- 
standing all the civility with which she was 
offering them, our hunger had acquired such 
a poignancy that all her kind entreaties were in 
vain. All the dainties were quite unsuited to 
our palate. I now learnt that the unknown 
species of husky fruit which excited my curiosity, 
were cedar-nuts, an importation from Siberia. 

Having waited awhile, and lost all pros- 



OF SIBERIA. 35 

pect of a more solid refreshment, I asked 
our hostess whether she had prepared some- 
thing for us, and especially if there was no meat. 
However, I was astonished to find from her 
reply, that in Russia no preparations whatever 
are made for Easter ; that tables are not groan- 
ing under viands, cakes, and all sorts of 
generous food, as is the custom in Poland. 
In short, there was nothing of the kind, abso- 
lutely nothing. All we could get was barshtch, 
with some meat in it, which we ordered to 
be brought up to our room. 

After recruiting our strength with this humble 
meal, we were all ready for departure. But 
circumstances over which we had no control 
deferred this event. From some reason or 
other post-horses could not be got ; our papers 
were not yet signed by the authorities ; and so 
we remained all day in uncertainty and sus- 
pense. At last, towards evening the horses 
were brought ; but the papers were yet wanting. 
Our Sergeant was running from one office to 
another like one enraged, to obtain his des- 
patches, but could not get them. In that state 
of perturbation we remained the whole night. 
The postillion, losing all patience, took back 

D 2 



36 REVELATIONS 

his horses, and we ourselves, on seeing what 
was going on, began to feel drowsy, and leant 
our heads on our luggage to sleep. At daybreak, 
the Sergeant returned, not having succeeded in 
his purpose. Nevertheless, he shortly after 
ordered the horses to be put on, hoping there 
would be a chance of finding the Director of 
Police at home in passing his house. He was 
directed to do so by those who knew the 
habits of that official. 

When we left our quarters the sun had not 
yet risen ; but the morning was beautiful. We 
stopped at the Police-office, and the sergeant 
descended for his papers; but he returned 
sadly disappointed, as the Director, having 
passed a sleepless night, had just then gone to 
bed, and could not be disturbed. Thus we 
were again doomed to wait several hours in 
the public street. Such delay was exceedingly 
annoying, as the day was brilliant, and most 
favourable for our journey. We witnessed 
the sun rise in aU his splendour, and the pro- 
longed twilight, in so large a city as Kazan, 
seemed like the awaking, or, if I might say so, 
the unclosing of the eyelids of its numerous 
population, which in itself was something fas- 



OP SIBERIA. 37 

cinating. It struck me that those who are 
first aroused for the daily toils and duties 
of life, or who are among the earliest risers 
in towns, constituted, as it were, a separate 
family, differing from others by its distinct* 
physiognomy. They are the slavish tools to 
the children of luxury, and are made sub- 
servient to their various wants and comforts. 
Each member of that dass appears to be 
marked on his forehead by this double in- 
scription : " Readiness for labour — Necessity of 
gain." 

I often looked around to see what sort of 
city Kazan was. As far as I was enabled to 
observe, during our passage, it appeared to be 
a fine and extensive town, with a good number 
of public edifices, and neat private houses, built 
of brick. Not a vestige of the former domin- 
ation of the Tartars exists in it, but the pro- 
gress of European civilization is everywhere 
discernible.* The streets are broad and well- 

* A great fire, which took place in 1815, destroyed 
nearly the whole town, except the Kremlin and a few 
churches, most of the houses beii\g built of wood, so 
that, with these exceptions, no vestiges of the ancient 



38 REVELATIONS 

paved. There is a university, an astronomical 
observatory, a gymnasium, and some manufac- 
tories, all of which make the traveller forget 
that he is in the capital, and the heart of 
the country of the once so redoubtable Tartars, 
famous in Europe by their inroads, conquests, 
and devastating ravages. 

After the lapse of several hours, it was 
announced that the Director had risen. It 
then took but a few minutes to sign the re- 
quired papers, and return them to our sergeant ; 
and now we were at liberty to continue our 
journey. 

The population of the government of Kazan, 
both on the right and the left bank of the 
Wolga, consists of a number of various races, 
as the Tcheremisy, Mordwini, Tchuvatchs, 
Votiaks, Vogulitches, and Tartars, all differ- 
ing from each other in language, dress, religion, 
and customs. The Tartars, however, seemed 
to constitute a majority among the motley 
crowd. The whole aspect of the country is 
peculiarly Asiatic. Villages are built of wood, 

city remains. Its population is about 65,000, one-fifth 
Tartar. 




OF SIBERIA. 39 

most of them with high minarets, also of wood. 
Amidst a variety of costumes, white turbans 
may at times be seen adorning the heads of 
the Mollahs, and also long veils to conceal the 
faces of women. 

The Tartar women wear long chemises, em- 
broidered in front with coloured worsted, and 
this is all their apparel. The men, if they 
do not belong to the religious order, are 
dressed in a loose costume, very much re- 
sembling the gabardines of the Jews in Poland. 
It consists of a kaflan with short sleeves, 
tight round, without any folds in front or 
behind, and a high pointed cap, with broad flaps 
on both sides, lined with fur. Some Tartars, 
also, wear full coats like our dressing-gowns, 
and small caps on the top of their head, 
similar to our jockey-caps, or the krymki of 
the Polish Jews. 

Throughout our journey, wherever we stop- 
ped for a relay of horses, we were surrounded 
by a crowd of people, at first curiously gazing 
on us as visitors from a distant country, and 
then minutely examining all our packages. 
Often, as if not trusting the evidence of their 
eyes, they stepped nearer, and touched everything 



40 REVELATIONS 

that had engaged their fancy with their hands. 
Women, especially, were very eager in satisfying 
their curiosity; in which respect we made no 
difficulty, and permitted them to inspect every- 
thing closely. 

This politeness on our part, I must own, 
was no great merit, being not entirely dis- 
interested. The costumes of these nymphs of 
the Wolga were likewise distinguished by such 
an originality, that we, on our part, were 
equally curious to examine them. In permitting 
them a near approach, we ^ere only pandering 
to our own curiosity. Nearly at every succeeding 
station such a variety of costume was presented 
to our view, as though we had arrived in quite 
a different country. The head coverings of some 
were in the shape of tablets, falling in a perpen- 
dicular line on the forehead. Some were studded 
with a quantity of silver and gold coins, giving 
forth a sound at every movement of the head. 
Others were fashioned in the shape of diadems, 
cut out at the top in the form of a crescent, the 
ends of which projected on both sides, like two 
horns. These diadems, as well as the tablets, 
were adorned with a number of plates and studs 
of brass and of other metals. Some females had 



OF SIBERIA. 41 

their bosoms and necks covered with silver and 
gold medals of various sizes, and a portion 
being bored and strung together formed a sort 
of costly necklace. 

I should not end were I to describe all the 
costumes which struck me as exceedingly original 
and remarkable ; and, indeed, all description 
would fall short of correctness. My impressions, 
though gathered on the spot, were but momen- 
tary, and I noted them only in memory, having 
neither paper nor ink to make memoranda. 

At one of the post-stations between Kazan 
and Perm, a chief of a village, actuated, as I 
suspected, less by politeness than curiosity arrived 
to pay his respects to us. He was no longer 
young, but looked robust. He was dressed in a 
broad kaftan, with a turban on his head, and 
led his wife by the hand, whom he presented to 
me. A long veil was thrown over her head, 
concealing the whole of her waist, and her other 
dress. Her face, however, was uncovered ; but 
it was horrible to look at, so thickly was it 
overlaid with rouge, white and crimson ; and 
her eyebrows were painted jet-black. It bore 
not the least appearance of a human face, but 
more that of a hideous mask, or a doll made of 



42 REVELATIONS 

parchment. Her bedizened visage, and her 
fantastic costume, made me think that we, at 
that moment, were at a masquerade, and had 
one of its most perfect patterns before us. 

It was not, however, long before I repressed 
my foolish wonder at her figure and resumed an 
earnest countenance. Having formerly had 
frequent opportunities of seeing the Tartars, and 
not being at all a stranger to their manners, I 
entered into conversation with this strange 
couple. 

" How many wives have you got ?" I asked 
the Mussulman. 

" Four," replied he. 

" Why did you not bring them all here ?" 

" All the others are old and ugly ; I never 
take them with me. This one is but thirty-two 
years, and I am proud of her," answered he, 
casting a doating glance on his better half. 

" How many children have you ?" 

" Only four sons and nine daughters," replied 
he, with a mournful shake of his head, as if 
desirous we should pity him. 

To give his sorrow on that account, a ludi- 
crous turn, I continued : 

" They are handsome, lusty maidens, surely. 



OF SIBERIA. 43 

and you will get a good round sum of money 
for them." 

"But has it not cost me much to rear 
them ? I much doubt that I shall get back 
my money," replied he. 

Such was this worthy and calculating pater 
familias of the Steppe. 



44 REVELATIONS 



CHAPTER III. 

Perm — New villages — Ural Mountains — Ekaterinburg 
— A roguish innkeeper •^— Post- carts — Defects of 
female education — Tumen — A national relic — To- 
bolsk — Compatriots in exile — Devotedness of a young 
lady — Departure — Inundation — Bronikov — Counter- 
order to return. 

From Kazan to Perm, we continued our 
journey amidst a barbarous population, remnants 
of different nations and races, of which, at a 
period not far distant, the ancient Tartar 
Khanate of Kazan was composed. We ar- 
rived at last at Perm, which is now the 
capital of the Government of that name. It is 
a mean and poor town, on the river Kama, 
with a scanty population, amounting to only 



OF SIBERIA. 45 

seven thousand inhabitants. Sixty years ago 
it was but a smaU viUage ; but the Russian 
Government, finding it necessary to have a 
central place for the new Government, created 
it into a city in 1781, since which time it 
has been materially enlarged. 

Perm may be said to be at the base of the 
Ural Moimtains. On quitting this town, we 
found ourselves at the foot of those heights, 
and could behold their stupendous summits. It 
is here that the earth has opened rich stores of 
wealth to human labour and industry. We saw 
large, beautiful, and populous villages, like as 
many infant towns springing up around, some 
of them with hundreds of neat well-built and 
comfortable houses. Their rapid growth struck 
us with amazement, and agreeably engaged 
our attention. Everywhere we saw industry and 
labour recompensed by wealth and comforts. 
The soul seemed to expand at this change 
from low and miserable hovels by the side of 
stately and magnificent palaces. Far and near 
we beheld prosperity, and not a single mean or 
poor cottage along the whole of the macadam- 
ised chaussee. 

At the sight of villages of two hundred to 



4 6 REVELATIONS 

three hundred houses well-built, spacious, and 
erected not without some display of architectural 
taste, all equal in dimensions, in regular rows, 
and new and fresh as though they were con- 
structed at once, and within a single day, my 
mind was led to consider what this region, 
not long ago a complete desert, owed to the 
powerful hand which reclaimed it-^not for 
gorgeous palaces to be tenanted, by the luxu- 
rious and pampered few, or for stupendous 
monuments to flatter the vanity of the mighty 
and the proud, but, for what is indeed far 
more commendable — ^handsome and comfort- 
able dwellings for many thousands of human 
beings, in reward for their labour. The spot 
bore the appearance of being on a sudden 
created by means of a magic power. That 
creative power is nothing else than industry, 
directed by intelligence, and combined with 
labour and perseverance. 

These flourishing villages are occupied by 
colonies of artizans and miners employed in 
the mining works. They go by the appella- 
tion of Zavody. Some of them are the 
property of the Crown, others of Russian 
nobles. 



OF SIBERIA. 47 

The whole ridge of the Ural Mountains is 
furrowed up by mines, chiefly of iron and 
copper. Some, however, yield the more precious 
metals, and also valuable stones. 

On our passage over the heights, at the 
stations where we changed horses we fre- 
quently had pictures offered to us for sale — a 
circumstance I little expected in a region so 
little famed for the fine arts. They were pro- 
ductions of the villagers ; and the objects 
represented were, for the most part, the Virgin 
Mary and the Saints of the Greek Church 
— gaudy and coarse daubings on wood, with 
nothing particular to recommend them. But 
what attracted my attention far more was the 
landscapes, in which these figures, the objects 
of so much veneration, were represented stand- 
ing. These landscapes were relievos of mosaic, 
formed of a multiplicity of various-coloured 
stones, large and small, not polished, but such 
as are found in their natural state. Topazes 
white and pale, amethysts, aquamarines, corne- 
lians, blood stones, emeralds, chalcedones, and 
others, when so combined, produce a wonderful 
effect; and, undeniably, the conception is no 
less original than striking. 



48 REVELATIONS 

The range of the Uralian Mountains is of 
enormous extent. The road from Perm to 
Ekatarinburg runs in an oblique direction, and 
therefore its real breadth cannot be exactly 
defined ; but as the chauss^e was constantly 
ascending, and we were passing on it from 
one acclivity to another for several days, the 
distance may safely be computed at several 
hundred miles. The road on which we 
travelled was well made and even as are, upon 
the whole, all roads constructed by the Govern- 
ment. 

The mountains are covered with forest, 
spreading over cliffs of colossal height, which 
protrude in a fearful manner. These gigantic 
masses, rising from their bases like so many 
castellated structures — some contiguous, others 
at greater distances from each other, standing 
apart solitary, bare and impending, look like 
giants under the power of enchantment, placed 
here to combat storms and drifts of snow, which 
in vain try to shake or entomb them. Others, 
of a bulk less stupendous, rear their summits 
one upon another, forming themselves into huge 
pyramids, while some are thrown into the most 
fantastic shapes, as though an invisible hand, 



OF SIBERIA. 49 

playing with their enormous peaks, had scat- 
tered them at hazard around. Primeval forests, 
and trees of centennial growth, spread out their 
broad branches in vain to conceal the nakedness 
of these giants, towering in the vast desert; 
they, through winter and through summer, ever 
remain the same — and ever sR^ ! 

Having crossed this sterile tract, we arrived 
at Ekatarinburg, another beautiful town of the 
Government of Perm, far superior to the capital 
of the province. 

This flourishing town lies on the Iset. At 
the first glance at this river, it became mani- 
fest, from the character of its current, that it 
did not emerge from the Uralian range, as all 
rivers originating in those mountains, pursue 
their cour^iie westward, and then, branching out 
in southern and northern directions, one set 
empty their waters into the Caspian Sea, and 
the other into the Arctic Ocean. We imme- 
diately observed that the currents took a con- 
trary, that is, an easterly direction, emptying 
themselves into the Oby. The latter, one of 
the grandest rivers of Siberia, after taking up 
its innumerable tributaries irom the west, the 
south, and the east —overflowing by its ramifi- 

VOL. I. E 



50 REVELATIONS 

cations vast countries in its course — falls 
through the Oby Gulf into the Arctic Ocean. 

Ekatarinburg is one of the towns founded in 
1723, and contains a good number of fine build- 
ings. It is the central point of the adminis- 
tration of mining, with a mint esteblished by 
Government, and is tolerably populous. It is, 
besides, celebrated for its mines and iron works, 
its mineral ores, and its process of polishing 
precious stones.* Gems of every kind, and all 
sorts of jewellery, can be had here at a very 
moderate price. Amethysts, opals, chalcedones, 
chrysolites, topazes, aquamarines, emeralds, and 
a variety of rock-crystals, are exposed for sale 
in great quantities, polished and unpolished; 
and some are not inelegantly set. But like a 

* This town is particularly celebrated for its mala- 
chite works, specimens of which, as a magnificent 
folding- door, superb tables, chairs, and vases, were dis- 
played at the Great Exhibition. The richest mines of 
malachite are Dimidofs property. On this spot, the 
rough blocks of malachite, according to Cottrell's state- 
ment, are sold for eight hundred rubles the pud, or 
about a guinea a pound. It is not the mineral itself 
that is expensive, but, from its extreme hardness, the 
working and polishing are very difficult, and enhance 
its value. 



OF SIBERIA. 51 

famished Arab, who happened to find in the 
desert a bag filled with pearls, and kicked it 
away with his foot, saying: "These were but 
pearls," so I cast myself a look of complete 
indiflference at them, obliged to move on, on — 
and still on. Had it depended upon my own 
will, indeed, I certainly should have stayed 
awhile longer. The survey I could then have 
taken of the mining establishments and the 
different manufactories, as well as the manner 
of living, and the social condition of the inhabi- 
tants, wpuld, I am sure, have afforded me 
much pleasure. The well-being of human com- 
munities in happy groups, is a matter at once as 
dear to the heart as instructive to the mind ; 
but the study of such a picture was not for me ! 
Up to this time the sledge was our vehicle, 
and the roads being good and even, we tra- 
velled at a tolerably good pace. We were 
constantly moving in the eastward direction, 
in which we hoped to continue till we should 
reach Tobolsk. But on our arrival at Ekata- 
rinburg matters changed, and instead of snow 
and frost, there was a thaw, and the horses 
waded with our sledge knee-deep in mud and 
mire. 

£ 2 



52 REVELATIONS 

This was a great disappointment, and a 
serious annoyance to us. We were obliged 
to put up at an inn, and our Sergeant, impa- 
tient to proceed, went to make inquiries as to 
the state of the road, and to effect arrangements 
accordingly. On his return, he brought us 
the disagreeable news, that on the road to 
Tobolsk no snow was to be found, and there- 
fore it would be necessary to abandon our 
sledge. 

Nothing could be more provoking. Our 
combined purses being very light, and we 
having little chance of seeing them soon re- 
plenished, we found it impossible to procure 
a spring carriage of the meanest description. 
In this dilemma we were advised to take 
a miserable Russian post-waggon (perek- 
ladna). 

There was no time to deliberate. Our 
comfortable sledge became the property of the 
innkeeper, who, ** feeling for our situation, 
as he said, and out of pure magnanimity," 
paid a few rubles for it to our Sergeant. Un- 
willing as we were, we unpacked all, and put 
our luggage, as well as we could, on the new 
vehicle, and so set off. 



OF SIBERIA. 53 

Here I cannot help saying, without fear of 
being accused of affectation, that the Russian 
post vehicles, or more properly, common carts, 
sometimes called tarantas, are insufferable — 
nay, detestable. For this seeming fastidious- 
ness, if 1 should be taxed with it, my sex, my 
age, and my previous habits must plead an 
apology. These carts are high and short, and 
from this peculiar construction, are exceedingly 
shaky. They are very shallow, and much 
higher in front than behind, which renders it 
extremely difficult to sit on them, and keep 
one's balance. Consequently, at every concus- 
sion, 1 was made to jump up a quarter of a 
yard high, to the complete dislocation of my 
joints. At such violent jerks and jolts, tears 
involuntarily gushed from my eyes. 

We gladly left Ekatarinburg, where the 
streets were all mud and mire, and proceeded 
on our tedious journey. To our surprise, we 
had hardly gone one verst from the town, 
when we found the road again covered with 
snow. As we went on the snow grew deeper, 
and wherever the eye turned, its white mantle 
covered the earth. I now entered into conver- 
sation with our driver (y artist chik)y and learnt, 



54 REVELATIONS 

to my utter astonishment, that with the excep- 
tion of Ekatarinburg, we should meet nothing 
but snow through the whole road to Tobolsk. 
He also told me that all the people at the 
post-station had been at a loss to^ understand, 
how we could wish to exchange our com- 
fortable sledge for our present odious vehicle. 

Instantly, a thought flashed across my mind 
that we were the victims either of some knavish 
trick, or some misunderstanding, and ordering 
the driver to stop, I called the Sergeant, and 
communicated to him what I had heard, at the 
same time inquiring where he had obtained 
his information that there was no snow on 
the road to Tobolsk — a report which, as he 
himself might see, was not true. 

From the Sergeant's answer, it appeared 
that his inquiries had been confined to our inn, 
and the innkeeper, from the paltry motive of 
pofiting by the purchase of our sledge, had 
imposed upon him, and placed us in this dismal 
plight. Enraged, however, at such infamous 
conduct, and ashamed of being so grossly 
cheated, he instantly dispatched two gens-d'armes 
to Ekatarinburg, with the money which he had 
got from the innkeeper, to demand the restitution 



OF SIBERIA. 55 

of our sledge ; and should this be refused, they 
were to complain to the authorities. 

Meanwhile, we went on to the next station, 
there to await the result. On our arrival there, 
I was so extremely tired, and felt so ill, that 
I was not very sorry at the occasion thus offered 
for a moment's repose, knowing that the gens- 
d'armes could not return for some time. 

After long expectation they at length came 
back, but brought no sledge. The magnanimous 
purchaser, who had bought it for several rubles, 
" in consideration of our position," would on no 
account part with the excellent bargain he had 
made ; and the authorities, to whom the case 
was referred, decided that, as the money had 
been accepted, and the purchase was made in 
consequence of a voluntary agreement on both 
sides, they saw no reason for reversing the 
transaction. 

Thus having lost our cause, and in addition 
several rubles for the hire of horses for the 
gens-d'armes, nothing remained but to proceed in 
our own wretched cart, which, by the bye, we 
could have given us at every post-station, as 
we had a right to demand it. Instead of this 
wheel-cart, however, to our great delight, each 



56 REVELATIONS 

of the succeeding stations accommodated us with 
sledges, and henceforward we found our travelling 
more comfortable : at least we ran no risk of 
being shaken to atoms. 

The only inconvenience now was, that on 
our arrival at each station we had to transfer our 
luggage from sledge to sledge — an operation 
which was at first very annoying, as I had no 
servant. Insignificant as this circumstance 
may appear, it made me often reflect on the 
defects of our system of education, in conse- 
quence of which so large a class of females 
are made completely dependent on the services 
of hirelings. I firmly determined for the future 
to get rid, on my part, of such an injurious 
habit, and did not at all regret that an oppor- 
tunity was then off^ered for my entering at once 
upon that practical course. 

At last we arrived in the Government of 
Tobolsk. Those only who have had to perform 
so long a journey, equally tedious and uncom- 
fortable, can conceive how agreeable it was to be 
able to contemplate its termination, however un- 
promising and uninviting might be the spot 
before us. In painful situations, change of place 
gives relief; and it is like that which is expe- 



OP SIBERIA. 57 

rienced by the bed-ridden when they turn on their 
other side. 

Still Tobolsk itself was not so near. We had 
yet to traverse a thousand versts.* Nevertheless, 
my imagination had already become familiarized 
with great distances. The whole difficulty lies in 
the termination of the first half of our journey ; 
and the other half, at every step made in 
advance, becomes by degrees more endurable. 

A tliinly inhabited steppe, little better than a 
desert, brought us to the small town of Tumen, 
situated at 250 versts from Tobolsk. This is 
the principal town of the district, which is 
called by the same name, and is divided into 
two parts by the river Tara. I observed there 
were some manufacturing establishments here, 
and among them, a foundry for church bells. 

On the bank of the Tara I saw a building 
erected by the inhabitants to preserve the boat 
in which Alexander, the heir-apparent to the 
Russian crown, was ferried across the river, 
when on his visit to Siberia, if I am not 
mistaken, in 1835. The boat is lined inside 
with a green woollen cloth, and is surmounted 

* A Russian werst is equal to about three-quarters of 
an English mile. 



58 REVELATIONS 

by a canopy of wood, hung with white curtains. 
The chair of state, in the shape of a throne, 
is of red damask, and is set with the Emperor's 
portrait, crowned by his cypher. 

This incidental visit of the Grand Duke is 
remembered as a great epoch at Tumen. The 
principal inhabitants of the town esteemed 
it an honour to be permitted to ferry their 
august visitor over the river, and the Prince, 
to mark his sense of the courtesy shown him 
on that occasion, condescended to leave an 
autograph of his name on the edge of the boat, 
and ordered the names of ten of the merchants 
of Tumen to be added under his own. The 
loyal citizens to preserve these signatures, put 
them under a glass. The boat-house is kept 
locked up, and shown as a national edifice. 

Starting from Tumen we arrived in due time 
at Tobolsk, the capital of Western Siberia. 
We had been just a month on our journey, 
having left Kiov on the 1 1th of March, and 
arrived at Tobolsk on the 1 1 th of April. We 
had throughout a very easy sledge journey, there 
being plenty of snow on the roads, though on 
approaching Tobolsk it commenced to thaw, and 
torrents of melted snow were rushing from the 



OF SIBERIA. 59 

hills. Obviously the beams of the vernal sun 
began to manifest their genial influence. 

Having gone through all the forms at the 
police-office, in accordance with the usage on 
the arrival of passengers, we put up at a guest- 
house (gosdnnica), which is an inn exclusively 
destined for the class of exiles to which we 
belonged, and contains several suites of rooms, 
in which they are lodged. Worn out with a 
whole month's constant travelling, I was de- 
lighted to find myself in a comfortable room, 
where I no longer heard the tinkling of the post- 
beUs, and was not pressed to travel on and on, 
but free to dispose of my time as 1 chose. 

In this delicious state of tranquil repose I 
almost forgot that I had still a weary journey 
before me — for I had not yet reached my des- 
tination. In the meantime masses of snow 
began to melt ; waters to rush in furious tor- 
rents along the roads ; and rivers to overflow. 
In short, everything seemed to prognosticate 
that all travelling for the present and for some 
time to come must cease, and the more so as 
there was no practicable road from Tobolsk to 
Berezov, except on the river, either through its 
waters, or over its bridge of ice. Hence I in- 



60 REVELATIONS 

ferred I should most probably remain some time 
at Tobolsk. 

Very soon after my arrival I gradually began 
to get insight into a life new to me. It was 
not long before I found myself in a circle of 
new associates, old and new acquaintances, some 
even of our own neighbourhood, who had been 
brought before me to Tobolsk. I there met 
Major Szreder, a native of Grand Poland, and 
companion-in-arms of Severin Krzyzanowski ; 
Antony Pawsza, of Volhynia ; Constantine 
Wolicki; Onufry Pietraszkiewicz, of Wilna; 
Ignatius Strumillo, of Volhynia; Stanislaus 
and Raphael Kiersnowski, brothers, of the 
Palatine of Novogrodek. Count Charles 
Marchocki had arrived only a few days pre- 
viously. Their company had the effect of at 
least alleviating, though not dispelling, oiu- 
anxious longings after those at home, whom 
it was impossible oiu- hearts should ever for- 
get. 

Three days had been agreeably passed in 
this friendly circle, and we had commenced 
making arrangements for a longer sojourn at 
Tobolsk, when on the fourth day we were all 
three unexpectedly summoned to the Civil 



OF SIBERIA. 61 

Governor's, who announced that we had rested 
long enough, and must prepare without any 
delay for our onward journey ; I was to proceed 
to Berezov the farthest north, and my com- 
panions to Tarra, in the south. The destination 
of the latter was comparatively less unfavour- 
able than mine, Tarra being a district town 
of Siberia, and, like Tobolsk, situated on the 
Irtish. 

Notwithstanding all the natural advantages 
of the climate, and many other comforts which 
Tarra seemed to afford, and which were hardly 
to be compared with those of Berezov — a 
town one thousand seven hundred versts distant 
from Tobolsk, in the remote north — Miss 
Josephine Rzonczewska, who hitherto was the 
companion of my journey, requested permission 
to exchange the place of her destination for 
mine, and accompany me to Berezov — a noble 
proof of her friendship, which I felt in the 
depths of my heart.. I did my utmost, how- 
ever, to dissuade her from such sacrifice for 
me; but she would not relinquish her deter- 
mination. Permission was not obtained from 
the authorities without great difficulty and 
hesitation, but at lajst it was granted. 



62 REVELATIONS 

The 17 th of April was fixed for our depar- 
ture, and, after taking leave of our compatriots, 
we set out on our journey, again in sledges, 
on the river Irtish, which was still all ice-bound. 

We saw the melted snow rushing in tor- 
rents from the steep banks, and the adjacent 
hiUs, into the river, which overflowed to a 
great extent, but its ice being thick and 
strong, and besides, still adhering fast to thC/ 
banks, had not yet sufficiently risen, as it 
otherwise would, to float high and free on the 
swollen waters. It was a complete inunda- 
tion — a deluge ; and in many places our horses 
had to cross deep and extensive pools. Not 
seeing his way, our coachman several times 
ran the risk of drowning his horses in holes 
cut in the ice, which it is the custom to do 
in those parts in winter, for the purpose of 
fishing or to water the cattle. 

Our danger and difficulties increased the 
further we proceeded. Often our horses and 
the sledges sank into such deep hoUows, and 
into pits of melting snow, that it required a 
number of people to drag them out. Fortu- 
nately two Cossacks of Berezov had been sent 
with us as guides, and were furnished with a 



OP SIBERIA. 63 

written order from the Governor, authorizing 
them to ask for any number of hands in case 
of need ; accordingly we were accompanied from 
village to village by a convoy of several men 
on horseback, armed with shovels and poles, 
who rendered us good service. Notwithstand- 
ing the assistance we thus received, we did not 
on the first day reach even so far as the next 
post-station, and were obliged to pass the night 
on the road. 

The following day at noon we succeeded in 
reaching a village called Bronikov, about thirty- 
six versts beyond Tobolsk. This is the remotest 
station at which the road by land from Tobolsk 
to Berezov terminates ; there being during the 
summer no road whatever in that northern 
direction, but persons who go thither are 
obliged to proceed by water. Bronikov is 
colonized by Russian settlers. 

Our guides, convinced of the utter imprac- 
ticability of proceeding any further, as many 
other conveyances had been brought to a stand 
at this place, and were waiting the change of 
season, came to a halt, and sent a report to the 
Governor, acquainting him with our detention. 



64 , REVELATIONS 

Unpleasant as it was to remain, perhaps for 
the space of a whole month, in so desolate a 
place, consigned to a wretched hovel, without 
any society whatever, and even without the 
means of procuring the most indispensable 
necessaries of life, we were obliged to resign 
ourselves to our fate. Work and reading are 
the usual resources of females in similar cases, 
but of these we had but a limited supply. The 
tenement where we were lodged belonged to 
the Secretary of the Post, and he had 
but temporarily conceded it to us, so that we 
could not employ ourselves in forming a house- 
hold. 

Meanwhile, the Governor received the intelli- 
gence of our detention, and thought it better 
to countermand our journey, and wait till a 
more advanced season should render the river 
navigable. The counter-order was on two ac- 
counts highly consolatory to me. Instead of 
being compelled, as I should have been, to 
spend my time in irksome solitude, imprisoned 
within the walls of a miserable hut, in a small 
and dirty village, it promised me the agreeable 
society of my compatriots ; and after the worry 



OF SIBERIA. 65 

and fatigue I had suffered throughout my pro- 
gress by land, and its pernicious effect on my 
health, the prospect of completing my long 
journey by the river could not but give me 
great pleasure, as I should no longer be exposed 
to the severe jolting of the road, and while 
secure of good rest at night, might sometimes 
walk on the deck during the day, working or 
reading as I pleased, and so I hoped in time to 
recruit my strength. 

We retraced our steps to Tobolsk, not by 
our previous route on the Irtish, the river 
being now impassable, but by an ordinary road 
used in summer. I need not say how delighted 
we were at finding ourselves again amidst our 
old friends, and hpw they also rejoiced to wel- 
come us on our return. 



VOL. I. 



66 REVELATIONS 



CHAPTER IV. 

Sojourn at Tobolsk — Lower and Upper Town — ^Edifices 
— Interview with an exiled Colonel — ^Walks on the 
Irtish — Tobola — Public garden — Visit from the exile 
— Advance of spring — Breaking of ice on the Irtish— 
Argali deer. 

As we had to stay several weeks at Tobolsk, 
it was necessary to look for lodgings. Another 
of our coTintrjrwomen, an old friend and neigh- 
bour of mine, who had arrived shortly before, 
found herself in the same situation, and we 
agreed to take a house, and live together. 

Spring now approached with rapid pace. 
Snow was disappearing from the streets, the 
fields, and all the environs. We lived in the 
lower part of the town, which was without any 



OF SIBERIA. 67 

pavement ; but as the streets were laid with 
planks and large trunks of trees, we were able 
on fine days to take our walks in town without 
much inconvenience, and thus make acquain- 
tance with the capital of Siberia. 

Tobolsk lies on the right bank of the Irtish. 
Most of its houses are built of wood, not painted 
outside and only very rarely inside. They look 
dusty and mean, and the town has a sombre 
iminviting aspect. But a small number of the 
houses are of brick, and these chiefly belong 
to a more respectable class of merchants. There 
are eleven churches, all brick structures. 

Among the principal buildings, the Gover- 
nor's Palace holds the first place. It is two 
stories high ; another, and equally stately edifice, 
was built by Swedish prisoners, taken at the 
famous battle of Pultawa ; a third, is the residence 
of the Archbishop of all Siberia. These three 
edifices are all situated on an eminence, and 
may be said to constitute, as it were, the basis 
of what is termed the " Higher Town." 

Below on a plain, or more properly a 
peninsula which is formed by a winding of the 
Irtish, lies the " Lower Town." The site being 
low, and not much above the level of the 

F 2 



68 REVELATIONS 

river, it is exceedingly damp. Both the towns, 
as well as all the environs are too level to 
allow of a single fine view ; and the total absence 
of buildings remarkable for grandeur, either in 
their dimensions or in architectural beauty, make 
all the streets look alike. It is not to Tobolsk 
that the sight-himters should go to gratify their 
curiosity. Only those who have long been 
resident in this place, and have become more 
familiar with the diflferent localities, can point 
out any ^difference between one set of streets and 
another ; such distinctions totally escape the eye 
of a casual visitor. 

During one of my walks, being accompa- 
nied by some friends, I paid a visit to Colonel 
Severin Krzyzanowski. He was a 'poor in- 
vaUd ; both his feet are paralyzed, and he 
never quits his chamber.* One of our com- 

* Colonel Krzyzanowski is one of the many victims 
of the reign of the Emperor Nicholas. He had been a 
most distinguished officer in the Polish army, and 
fought many batties under Napoleon. He was accused, 
with other Poles, of complicity in the celebrated Pestel 
conspiracy in Russia, but the crime could not be sub- 
stantiated against them, and they were all honourably 
acquitted by the High Court at Warsaw in 1828. 
Although a Pole, yet being born in the Ukraine, Colonel 



OF SIBERIA. 69 

pany, M. Onufiy Pietraszkiewicz, preceded us 
to apprise the Colonel of our approach, and 
we waited in an outer room while his nurse, 
a Grerman, prepared for our reception. 

In about a quarter of an hour the Colonel 
was ready to receive us, and being ushered in, 
we found him sitting in a deep arm-chair, a la 
Voltaire, propped up on both sides, his infirm 
debilitated body requiring those supports. 

His long, thin hair was snow-white — 
bleached, as it appeared, by premature age, 
brought on by much suffering, and it fell down 
on his shoulders, reaching nearly to his elbows. 
His face was excessively pale, and looked as 
though it were swollen ; the lustre of his 

Krzyzanowski was claimed by the Czar as a Russian 
subject, and without any trial whatever transported to 
Siberia. For nearly twenty years it was not known 
where he was, or even whether he was dead or alive ; 
and, but for our author's notice of him, his friends 
would not, in all likelihood, have heard anything of 
him to this day. Siberia is a vast prison, and though 
not walled up, there is no return or escape from its 
confines. The rest of the unfortunate man's life — his 
sufferings and his mournful end, as related by our 
author, will now become clear and intelligible to the 
readers. 



70 REVELATIONS 

eyes was dimmed, and their old fire quenched. 
As he saw us enter, his lips and eyes trem- 
bled convulsively, betraying a strong inward 
emotion. We perceived that he tried to speak, 
and could not. He then by a movement of 
his hand made us a sign to approach his seat, 
to enable him to shake hands with us. There 
were but two of us in his room — Miss 
Josephine and myself. 

It fortunately happened that at that moment 
the Colonel's mind was perfectly lucid, which, 
alas ! was not its ordinary condition ; and we 
could see that only the excess of emotion 
deprived his paralyzed tongue of the power of 
speech. At length he recovered his self-pos- 
session, and for some time conversed with us, 
though not without difficulty, yet with perfect 
presence of mind. 

Hearing that our destination was Berezov, 
a place known to him, having himself resided 
there fourteen months, he recommended us, 
when we arrived, to take lodgings at his former 
landlady's, where he said we should be com- 
fortable. He tried to reassure us with respect 
to Berezov and the discomforts of that place, 
and perhaps thinking we should be frightened, 



OF SIBERIA. 71 

lauded the single-heartedness and hospitality 
of its inhabitants. 

This conversation he maintained with a diffi- 
culty painful to witness. We were obliged 
to gather what he intended to convey, more 
from his gesticulations and the movement of 
his lips than from the words he uttered. For 
some time we went on tolerably well; but 
at last the Colonel's faculties, exhausted by 
his efforts, began to flag. He still went on 
speaking, but we could not help observing 
that imagination carried him back to the' shores 
of the Tagus and the banks of the Seine, the 
stage of his past military exploits. He then 
narrated that we could obtain at Berezov plenty 
of water-melons, grapes, oranges, and a variety 
of delicious fixiits, which we knew were not to 
be found there, but were the produce of more 
genial climes. 

This conversation, from its character and 
the direction it had taken, affected me pain- 
ftdly. I was at a loss how to abridge it, 
otherwise than by taking leave from our un- 
fortimate compatriot, who, on perceiving our 
movement, grasped our hands, and continued 
uttering beseechingly with his palsied tongue. 



.'J- 



72 REVELATIONS 

"Pray stay — still longer — longer/' But ap- 
prehending lest the effect of our protracted 
interview should prove injurious to the Colonel's 
health, we left him, thinking we might yet see 
him again at some future period. 

On our way home, in order to disembarrass 
ourselves of the painful impression produced 
on our mind, we proceeded in the direction of 
the Irtish. Arrived on its banks, we saw an 
immense extent of land, as far as our eyes 
could reach, under water, presenting a mag* 
nificent spectacle. In gazing upon this expanse 
of smooth placid water, shining mirror-like 
before us, oiu* sight seemed to lose itself in 
its immensity. At its farthest extremity we 
could likewise discern another distant plain: 
it was land, across which again another azure- 
like stream was running at first so tiny, as to 
be almost imperceptible, but growing more dis- 
tinct the nearer it came, gradually widening into 
something like a broad high-road, which, at 
last uniting with the river, formed one vast 
sheet of water. The swollen tributary was 
the Tobola, coming from the far-west, and 
emptying itself into the majestic Irtish. 

On our way home, we passed by what is 



OF SIBERIA. 73 

called here a public garden, and peeped into it. 
It was a small piece of ground, intersected with 
gravel walks, and containing only birches and a 
few yellow acacias. Here and there were placed 
benches to sit upon, and on one side a summer- 
house constructed of wood. Had the season 
been more favourable, I should, perhaps, have 
seen the place to greater advantage ; but the 
trees were now bereft of foliage, and the branches 
so scanty that they could be counted ; besides, 
the ground was wet and miry, and alto- 
gether the garden presented a doleful appear- 
ance. 

On the following day, in the afternoon, being 
at home, we observed from our balcony a 
dorozka, with one horse, stop at our door. We 
were astonished when we saw the occupant of it 
descending. Count Marchocki, who was just 
then with us, from curiosity also approached the 
window, and recognized Colonel Krzyzanowski, 
who in his state of infirmity could not get out 
of the vehicle, and was obliged to be carried by 
two men. It took some time to collect more 
hands to convey him to our apartment, which 
was the more difficult from its being on the 



74 REVELATIONS 

second floor. His debility was so excessive that 
he was carried like a child up stairs. 

We welcomed him with great concern and 
emotion ; and not having any arm-chair in our 
room, for the support of his feeble and para- 
lyzed body, we made him sit on the sofa, and 
propped him up with cushions. 

During this visit the Colonel spoke with 
greater facility than on the preceding day. His 
conversation was more animated, and he even 
spoke a great deal more as if he were deter- 
mined to make up for the constraint under 
which he had laboured on the occasion of our 
visit to him. To-day he would not have his 
will in the least cramped, nor his tongue silenced, 
when thoughts flashed like lightning through his 
brain. 

With inconceivable fire and rapidity, he dis- 
coursed on a variety of things and incidents, 
plunging by turns into the past and the pre- 
sent, and nowhere resting ^ long, as if forewarned 
of his lucid moments being numbered and but 
scantily granted to him. He seemed therefore 
the more eager to catch at each moment, as 
they flew rapidly by. Within half an hour. 



OF SIBERIA. 75 

however, his ideas grew confiised, and at last 
got quite unstrung. He stiU continued speak- 
ing with the same volubility as before, but alas ! 
there was no reason in his words. 

I did all I could to bring him back to his 
former train of associations, but all in vain. 
His thoughts having once lost their pathway, 
could by no means be brought into it again. 

His servant observing this melancholy state 
of his master's mind, approached, and signified 
that it was time to depart, but the Colonel 
pushed him back. He would not have his 
visit abridged. He remained several hours 
longer, sunk in the same distressing state, 
and without the least shadow of amendment. 
At last, at nightfall, he took leave of us. 

Winter seemed now to be departing, and 
the weather every day grew finer. Nature 
awoke from her lethargic sleep, breaking through 
the icy fetters in which winter had enthralled 
her. The sun shone with more warmth, and 
the birds carolled gaily in the trees. It was 
the 10th of May,* when news at last spread 

* The 10th of May here, be it remembered, is the 
22nd of that month, according to the Gregorian Calen- 
dar now in general use in Europe : the Russians still 



76 REVELATIONS 

that the ice of the Irtish had broken and 
was floating down the river, which in a few 
days would be open for navigation. This was 
a warning to us to prepare for departure. 

Our hearts grieved as the old and well- 
known song recurred to our memory, the 
song which for one whole month was ringing 
incessantly in our ears, and still echoed the 
weary refrain, " Onward — onward." 

To drive these melancholy anticipations 
from our mind, we once more repaired to 
the banks of the Irtish, to witness its strug- 
gle with the parting ice, and almost lament 
its victory. The view had scarcely anything 
new in itself, reciuring as it does every year, 
and yet it is ever magnificent. 

We found the ice already broken. It moved 
on the blue waves of the river in huge masses, 
slowly and almost solemnly, amidst thunder- 

computing the days of the month, and fixing all the 
festivals of their Church after the old Julian style. This 
must be allowed for throughout our author's narrative, 
as that difference — which is twelve days between the 
two calendars — cannot be unimportant in forming a 
right estimate of the Siberian temperature at different 
seasons of the year. 



OF SIBERIA. 77 

ing crashes from far and near. We saw the 
smaller craft of boats in great number trying 
their adventurous course near the shore which 
was afready clear of all ice-floes; while the 
banks of the river were thronged with specu- 
lators, young and old, men, women, and chil- 
dren of all ranks and stations. This was the 
grandest feature of the spectacle — grand be- 
cause all were alive to it. 

I witnessed, not without satisfaction, the 
temerity, the skill, and the courage with 
which the inhabitants ventured on an element 
so terrific and perilous — curbed, but not yet 
conquered, and which still echoed its thundering 
poean of war and defiance. 

I cannot exactly state the reason, but the 
spectacle of a man who is resolutely braving 
danger, with nothing to rely upon but his own 
strength, has always had more charm for me, 
and excited more veneration for the grandeur 
of his character, than all his industrial con- 
quests. This, perhaps, is the foible of our 
sex. 

On our return home, I saw a most beautiful 
animal called a moral. I mean no equivoque. 



78 REVELATIONS 

for that was its real name. It is, I am told, 
a native of the Sayan and the Altai moun- 
tains.* 

I never saw an animal equal it in elegance of 
shape. It is very much like a deer, or more 
properly like an antelope. It is tall in stature, 
slender, and exceedingly graceful in its pro- 
portions, with thin feet and short tail. It 
bears its neck high, and the hair is thin and 
smooth, and of a brown colour. I was informed 
that it usually had high horns branching out 
like the antlers of a stag; but at this season 
the animal was without any, and on the spot 
where they grow there was only a soft protu- 
berant excrescence, covered with delicate hair- 
like moss. This horny protuberance grew so 
rapidly, that in the course of a few weeks, the 
animal's head was crowned with noble antlers. 
The moral I have described was kept in the 
stables of Prince Gortchakoff, Governor-General 

* The moral is probably the argali, or capra ammon, 
whose horns, as mentioned by Mr. Cottrell, are im- 
mensely large, very spiral, and strong. The moral is 
very shy, and lives in the most inaccessible spots, like 
the chamois. 



OF SIBERIA. 79 

of West Siberia. It was very tame, and walked 
freely about the town. 

These animals are generally very easily tamed ; 
and many people who take a particular liking 
to them, keep a number of them as domestic 
cattle. 



80 REVELATIONS 



CHAPTER V. 

Preparations for departure — Spring — The Upper Town 
— Ceyzik's house — Prince GortchakofF — His re- 
moval to Omsk — Roman Catholic missions — A real 
solitude — Embarkation — Cabin — FareweUs. 

It was on the 12 th of May that we re- 
ceived an official notice from the Governor- 
General to prepare for departure to Berezov. 
About this town, though a capital of an exten- 
sive district, and one next to Tobolsk in im- 
portance, so little was known here, that every- 
body with whom we spoke gave us a different 
account of it. In this one particular, however, 
all seemed to agree, that we could not expect 
to meet there any of our usual comforts. The 
first object, therefore, for our consideration was 



OF SIBERIA. 81 

to purchase a stock of commodities for our 
future household, as furniture and provisions, 
such as we thought would keep on our voyage. 
The whole of my time was now taken up with 
making purchases, packing and stowing the 
different articles, in which business I had every 
possible assistance from my countrymen, to whose 
kindness I was indeed much indebted. 

The voyage by water would, I thought, after 
all, be more agreeable than travelling by land, 
and it mattered little how bulky or heavy were 
my purchases. The only drawback was, that 
I was obliged to limit my wishes from the 
insufficiency of my means. 

The privation which, according to all ac- 
counts, I had most to apprehend in my 
future household, and most wished to avoid, 
was the supplies of the dairy ; for I was 
assured that there were no more than two 
cows in the whole territory of Berezov. As 
for fruit, salads, and other vegetables, I was 
pretty sure that from the nature of the climate, 
they were quite out of the question, and could 
not at all enter on my list ; but milk, cream, 
and butter — how could I be without them? 
From Tobolsk I could only transport melted 

VOL. I. G 



82 REVELATIONS 

hutter ; and as for tea, which is the only 
luxury known to the Siberians, and next to 
water is considered by them one of the prin- 
cipal necessaries of life — the very idea of such 
a beverage, as drunk by them, frightened me. 
I well knew that I should have to encounter it 
at every step, as it is deemed an indispensable 
item of hospitality; and I could never drink 
tea without cream. 

Such are the petty miseries of our life. They 
are too insignificant to be even perceptible 
amidst strong emotions ; but in the absence 
of such emotions, and under an utter apathy of 
life, even they are apt, contemptible though 
they be, to assume in our fancy the shape of 
grave and intolerable evils. 

On the 15th of May, spring gladdened us 
with her first cheerful vernal smile. Warm 
and genial was her breath, moving the birch 
trees to spread out their long tresses, and 
deck themselves with foliage, struggling as it 
yet was beneath the browil tints of winter. 
Grass began to sprout, and vernal flowers were 
peeping timidly forth, and upraising their shy 
modest, variously-coloured heads to the sun, 
which tenderly kissed their brows with his 



OF SIBERIA. 83 

beams, and by his penetrating warmth every- 
where imparted new life. Gladdened by the 
changed face of nature, we resolved to turn 
the last days of our sojourn at Tobolsk to as 
great an advantage as possible, and to see more 
of the town and of its vicinity. 

Our first visit was to the Upper Town, 
which, as I have before remarked, occupies 
an elevated site, and in so far is drier 
and more salubrious than the Lower Town, 
while the view from it over the latter is not 
altogether without interest. The commimica- 
tion between the two cannot be said to be 
easy, at least it is not such as might be de- 
sired; the new portion, which is on the hill, 
being separated from the old one below by a 
perpendicular high cliff and a deep ditch. There 
are only two ways, indeed, by which the Upper 
Town is accessible ; one to passengers on foot, 
by a flight of many hundred steps leading 
straight up the hill, which though the shortest 
way is very irksoihe for ascent ; and the other 
for carriages, by a circuitous and broad road 
in a ravine, dug for that purpose roimd the 
hill, and paved with wood. Evidently, every- 
thing that the art of engineering could suggest 

G 2 



84 REVELATIONS 

has been employed to facilitate the comnmnica- 
tion ; but, in spite of all digging, paving, and 
bringing, in order to diminish the ascent, the 
acclivity is too great not to be most severely 
felt. One cannot ascend the steps without 
losing one's breath, and without being obliged 
repeatedly to stop for rest. 

On reaching the top of the hill, an exten- 
sive plateau presents itself. It is adorned with 
a monument raised recently, in the reign of 
the present Emperor, to the memory of Yermak. 
The cost of the erection was paid from sub- 
scriptions collected for the purpose among the 
natives of Siberia. 

The appearance of the Upper Town is neat ; 
the streets are broad ; the air dry, bracing, and 
conducive to health. The Government House, 
the residence of the Archbishop (Archirey), the 
Greek Church, the barracks, and the military 
hospitals, constitute the principal buildings. 
The rest of the houses are nearly all constructed 
of wood. 

Among these, a small but neat cottage had, 
during my visit, paa-ticularly struck me by its 
European aspect. It was surrounded by a 
plantation of birch trees, which had a very 



OF SIBERIA. 85 

picturesque effect. I inquired whose house it 
was, and received for answer, that the pro- 
prietor's name was Ceyzik, who formerly 
resided in Poland, and was celebrated for his 
most exquisite paintings on china and pottery. 
He had been, as we were told, for upwards of 
twenty years in Siberia, and though aged, he 
still looked hale and strong. On hearing this, 
we could not help wishing to see him. 

The snug, comfortable cottage he possessed 
was his own property, as well as a small 
garden attached to it. This was very well kept, 
and was full of various shrubs, with beds for 
vegetables and flowers, traversed by carefully 
raked paths, and even containing some con- 
servatories, reminding us more of our own 
country than of the wilderness of Siberia. 
The taste for embellishing human habitations, 
by subjecting nature to the rules of art, 
has not yet penetrated to this region. And 
why so ? For no other reason that I can 
imagine, than because all attempts at refinement 
would appear dwarfish and out of place in 
the presence of the grandeur and variety of 
nature, spread out before the threshold of the 
humblest dwelling ; and I might also say 



86 REVELATIONS 

because the necessity for any such artificial 
improvements has not yet made itself apparent 
among these wild people. 

Ceyzik's pottery is much prized, and there 
was a great demand for it throughout Siberia. 
During the visit of the heir-apparent of the 
Russian crown, the citizens of Tobolsk ordered 
at Ceyzik's manufactory a china tray, which 
was presented to their illustrious guest as a fine 
specimen of Siberian manufactures, and was 
graciously received by him. In general, Ceyzik 
has an excellent market for his wares, and 
orders are often sent to him fi'om distant 
parts of Siberia for vases, basins, tureens, bo\Js, 
and such like, both ornamental and useful 
crockery. All these articles are recommended 
for the elegance of their workmanship and their 
beauty of design, and are indeed entitled to 
admiration. 

During the week, a great bustle prevailed at 
Tobolsk. The mercantile portion of the citizens 
were busied in freighting boats and vessels 
destined for the Oby Sea, whence, after dis- 
charging their cargoes, they bring back loads 
of fish and fur. Many of the inhabitants, too, 
were more or less engaged in preparing for 



OF SIBERIA. 87 

the departure of the Governor- General, Prince 
Gorkchakoff, who was on the point of leaving 
Tobolsk for Omsk.* For some reason or 
other, difficult to explain, he w^as ordered to 
transfer his residence, with the whole of his 
staff, to the latter town, which is the capital of 
the district of that name, belonging in part 
to the Government of Tobolsk, and in part to 
that of Tomsk. The town of Omsk, like 
Tobolsk, lies on the Irtish, in a large Steppe, 

* The object of this removal of the capital of 
Western Siberia southward to Omsk, in the Kirghies 
Steppes^ is to establish a road in the direct line to 
Thibet, and when Russia shall have acquired a suffi- 
ciently firm footing in it, to obtain, across that coun- 
try, a transit for her merchandise to India, if not also 
for the march of her Kirghies, Tartar, and other 
Siberian hordes, for the accomplishment of her long- 
cherished designs on the British possessions in Asia. 
The distance from Omsk to the frontier of Thibet, is 
but twelve hundred versts ; and. on the way through 
the Steppes, most of the natives are on friendly terms 
with the Russians. At Omsk, a school is established in 
which a number of young men are instructed in the Mon- 
golish Arabic, and Persian languages, and destined to 
perform the duties of diplomatic agents in Asiatic coun- 
tries. The University at Kazan is another institution 
to qualify men for such missions, in furtherance of the 
Muscovite policy. 



88 REVELATIONS 

on the very boundary of the great Kirghies 
Steppes. 

The inhabitants of Tobolsk were grieved 
at parting with their beloved Governor, whose 
humane conduct had gained him all hearts. 
They perfectly knew how much they were 
losing by his departure. The different func- 
tionaries connected with his staff and their 
families, in particular, were sorry to relinquish 
their houses, where they had long been estab- 
lished, as well as the society and comforts to 
which they were accustomed. Turn which way 
you might, this was perceptible. Here a 
spacious house, which a few days before, we 
saw well furnished and filled with company, 
stood desolate and dismantled, with but naked 
walls, doors and windows open, all the furniture 
in disorder, and the servants waiting the arriv^al 
of carts which were to carry them to the 
river side. In some places friends were bidding 
each other adieu; in others, they held a last 
mournful meeting at the social board. 

At the river side all was in activity, and an 
immense crowd had assembled. It seemed as 
if the whole population of Tobolsk was at that 
moment congregated together. Some of the 



OF SIBERIA. 89 

vessek were loaded with furniture, and were 
destined for Omsk ; others, which were to sail 
in an opposite direction, received on board 
cargoes of flour and sundry victuals and mer- 
chandize for the northern districts of the Govern- 
ment of Tobolsk. 

Tobolsk has one Protestant church, but has 
not any Roman Catholic place of worship. 
Subscriptions were, indeed, some years ago, 
collected for the erection of a Roman Catholic 
church, but, in spite of the zealous efforts and 
contributions made by the wealthier portion of 
the Catholic inhabitants, they were found 
to be quite inadequate for carrying out that 
purpose. In the meanwhile, the Dominicans, 
who are established at Tomsk, occasionally visit 
Tobolsk to perform divine service for the Roman 
Catholic residents. 

At Tomsk, a distance of one thousand four 
hundred and thirty versts from Tobolsk, there 
is a Roman Catholic church, and this is the 
only one in the whole of Western Siberia. 
The priests are sent thither commonly from 
the Polish provinces; and their duty is to 
make annually a round of visits to all the 
principal places situated within that immense 



90 REVELATIONS 

diocese, extending from the Ural mountains 
to the river Jenisey in the east, and from the 
Steppes of the Kirghies to the ' Frozen Sea in 
the north. A whole year is hardly sufficient 
for traversing such an immense extent of terri- 
tory. Indeed, no one who has not spent some 
time in Siberia, or has not in some degree 
identified himself with the manner of life of 
the inhabitants of that country, can possibly 
have any conception of its vast extent. Europe 
would appear narrow to the natives of the 
Siberian wilderness. In the principal towns 
where the Catholics may be numerous, the 
priest is allowed to stay a few days longer; 
and then the Catholics of all the surrounding 
places, being informed by circular of his arrival, 
hasten for the performance of the rites of their 
religion, such as baptisms of children, matri- 
monial vows and confessions. After fulfilling his 
duty at one point, the priest, without a moment's 
delay, resumes his journey, visiting in that 
manner all the other places, distant at himdreds 
and often a thousand versts from each other. 

The town of Tobolsk is the point at which 
the visitation of the clergy of Tomsk termin- 
ates. The priest invariably arrives there at the 



OF SIBERIA. 91 

close of the winter, and does not, after his 
long pilgrimage, proceed any farther north- 
wards, but shortly before Easter usually returns 
to Tomsk, where he waits till the snow has 
melted, and the season of navigation recom- 
menced, and then again starts on his circuit. 

The 16th of May had been fixed for our 
departure for Berezov, but the merchant Brahin's 
vessel, which was to convey us thither, chanced 
not to be yet ready, or more properly speaking, 
what indeed was the real truth of the matter — 
it was not sufficiently laden, a circumstance for 
which we were by no means sorry. The longer 
we remained at Tobolsk, the better it was for 
us ; every moment of our prolonged stay appeared 
to us a gain from those days of solitude and 
pining to which we should be doomed m future. 

I had never hitherto considered solitude a 
grievance ; on the contrary, I felt at all times 
reconciled to it — nay, found a degree of pleasure 
in it. Though I am fond of society, I somehow 
could easily replace the want of it, and never 
felt tired when alone. But the solitude which 
awaited me at Berezov was something appalling, 
hanging like a mass of deep darkness over my 
imagination, through which I could see only 



92 REVELATIONS 

horror and despair. Had it been guarded by 
the thickness of a wall, or by locks and bars, 
it would have caused us little concern ; but it 
was, in our conception, a total interruption of 
all relations with the past, and a seclusion from 
all mankind. 

At last the moment of departure arrived. 
On the 17th of May, we were informed 
by the authorities that the vessel was to sail 
within three hours, and that we must imme- 
diately embark. Our things had already been 
carried on board — thanks to the solicitude of 
our friends, who anticipated our wishes and 
diminished our troubles. Woman at all stages 
of her life, and in all circumstances, requires 
protection, and feels grateful for it ; and situated 
as we were, we felt the more a sincere thankful- 
ness for the kind attention we experienced. 
Taking leave of all with whom we were ac- 
quafinted, and accompanied by a small escort of 
friends, we wended our way sorrowfully to the 
river. The vessel was moored some distance 
from the shore, in the deepest part of the stream, 
and we were obliged to take a boat. Several of 
our company there bade us farewell ; but others, 
as Charles Marchocki, Constantine Wolicki, and 



OF SIBERIA. 93 

two brothers, the Kiersnowskis, st31 remained 
with us, and accompanied us to the vessel. 

The little bark was bound to the Oby Sea, 
whence it was to fetch back a cargo of fish. It 
was one of the largest among those which 
annually go to the Frozen Sea for that purpose, 
and was of ten thousand to eleven thousand 
puds.* We were shown to a cabin, the only 
one in the vessel; it was narrow and dark, 
and was packed up with a quantity of fur and 
wodka (whisky), which rendered it anything but 
odorous. However, we had many reasons for 
valuing it, as it afforded us a convenient retreat, 
and we could claim it as a corner of our own. 
It at least separated us from a motley crowd 
of passengers of w^hom we knew nothing, and 
whom we could not possibly make confidants 
of our thoughts, feelings, or actions. 

Before the signal for departure was given, 
our kind compatriots were busily engaged in 
stowing, within the narrow confines of our 
temporary abode, all our luggage, and ar- 
ranging as comfortably as could be our small 
household. Meanwhile, we enjoyed the sor- 
rowful sweetness of confidential discourse, 

* The Russian pud is thirty-six pounds English. 



94 REVELATIONS 

perhaps never to be renewed, and a last 
exchange of thoughts and sympathies, which 
was to suffice us for years of long seclusion. 

Several hours still elapsed ere all the 
sailors could be assembled. They were dis- 
persed on shore, some bidding farewell to 
their families, others transacting business, 
and some getting tipsy in the company of 
their friends. But we were not impatient 
to sail; we ourselves were beguiling the few 
moments that remained to us in a friendly 
circle. 

At last, to our great distress, the signal 
gun was fired thrice. This admitted of no 
further delay. The anchor was weighed. 
The ship moved northward, and the boat 
carried our fiiends back to the shore. As 
long as we could see each other, our white 
handkerchiefs waved in the air, wafting our 
last adieus. God alone could tell whether 
those sweet accents of my native language 
were not the last that I should ever hear. 



OF SIBERIA. 95 



CHAPTER VI. 

Journey to Berezov — Mournful train of thoughts — 
Kutchum Khan and Yermak — Steward — Passengers 
— Samovar — Boating — Perilous adventure — Gkde of 
wind — Demiansk — Increase of cold — Expanse of 
the desert— Grandeur of primitive nature. 

It was ten o'clock at night. The green and 
fresh foliage of birches, just then breaking from 
their buds, was blended with the darkness of 
the grey twilight. The splashing of the oars, 
and, at times, the voices of the mariners inter- 
rupted the deep silence of night. The hills 
along the banks of the Irtish were disappear- 
ing, one after another, from our sight. Absorbed 
in my thoughts. I experienced an agony of spirit, 
and felt very ill. At each movement of the oar, 



96 REVELATIONS 

I was carried farther and farther from my home 
and my family, into a region desolate and wild. 
We stood, Josephine and myself, silent on the 
deck ; our eyes involuntarily turning back, as 
though we were still chasing after the pasts. 
Each was following her own train of thoughts. 

All around us was night, silence, and wilder- 
ness. Darkness was gradually growing deeper, 
and more impenetrable. Still we experienced 
no wish to retire, or to separate ourselves 
from the thoughts which engrossed us. At 
length, the trees and other objects lost their 
visible shapes; and all around was obscurity. 
In our passage onward, however, we occasionally 
perceived twinkling of lights along the shore, 
and, in some places minarets dimly looming 
in the dark. These were Tartar villages, and 
faintly as they appeared, they happily brought 
me some relief, exciting a different train of 
associations, and leading my memory to the 
times of Kutchum Khan and Yermak.* 

* Kutchum Khan and Yermak are historical cha- 
racters of this region — one being the defender, the other 
the invader of Siberia. Kutchum Khan was a lineal 
descendant of the great Ghenghis Khan, and in the six- 
teenth century, the most powerful chief of all the inde- 



OF SIBERIA. 97 

Both these men were valiant in the field, 
both conquerors. They both fought courage- 
ously, but not with equal success. The former 
being vanquished and banished from his do- 
minions, became, in his advanced age, an exile ; 
bereft of his country, his family, his riches, 
and his sight, and died an unknown death, 
leaving nothing for posterity but a bright record 
of the greatness of his soul in adversity. The 
latter, after a career of wild adventures and 
bold exploits, being taken by surprise, by those 
whom he had vanquished, perished on the 
banks of the Irtish, without the least sign 
of a tomb to mark the spot where he fell. 

pendent tribes in Western Siberia. A fort in the vicinity 
of Tobolsk, of which some ruins still remain, was his 
usual place of residence. In the year 1578, that portion 
of Siberia was invaded by a Cossack of the Don, Timo- 
fief Yermak, a freebooter, who, on that account, incurred 
the ire of the Grand-Duke of Muscovy. Compelled 
with his followers to seek refuge in Siberia, he defeated 
the Khan, and extended his conquests; but, being 
in turn defeated, he sued pardon of his former enemy 
the Czar, and to obtain protection, subjected to him, 
nominally, Siberia — a country which at that period 
was so little known, that he was considered its dis- 
coverer. 

VOL. I. H 



98 REVELATIONS 

The mortal remains of both these worthies of 
yore have, perhaps, found a common grave in 
the waters of this great river ; yet, how diflFer- 
ent are the results produced by the achieve- 
ments of one and the other. The dominions 
of Kutchum Khan were doomed to bend under 
the yoke imposed on them by the victor ; his 
princely family was carried off captive to a 
foreign land; while Yermak proceeded from 
victory to victory, from conquest to conquest, 
and subjected so many nations differing in 
their language, manners, and religions, to one 
and the same sceptre and the same laws. 

Thus far in the night I protracted my me- 
ditation, unta benumbed with cold and tired of 
the melancholy darkness around, we descended 
to the cabin. 

But the extraordinary novelty of my situation, 
the reminiscences of the past, and the dim vista 
of the future, blending together, scared sleep 
from my eyelids. I saw the day dawn without 
once closing my eyes. 

No sooner did the rays of the morning begin 
faintly to illumine our cabin through its narrow 
window, than I arranged my toilette and hur- 
ried to the deck, anxious to see the country 



OF SIBERIA. 99 

and to learn where we were. The night had 
seemed long, having been sleepless, and the 
current of the swollen river appearing not to 
have suffered any interruption in carrying us 
onwards, I imagined that we were at an im- 
mense distance from Tobolsk ; but, to my asto- 
nishment, I was informed that we were scarcely 
twenty versts from the place of our embarkation. 
The surrounding country, as far as could be 
seen, was on all sides monotonous, uninhabited, 
and a complete wilderness. Not seeing any in- 
ducement to remain any longer, I retired to the 
cabin. 

The lower part of this little retreat was below 
the level of the water, but this did not apply to 
the upper part, and a small oblong pane of 
glass fixed in the side, just beneath the low 
ceiling, admitted as little light as coidd be. 
However, as my berth happened to be upper- 
most, just at that small opening I could sit and 
read at the dim light it admitted. Thus the 
berth did a double service for me; it served 
me for a sofa during the day, and for a couch 
at night. 

In the course of two or three hours we 
arrived off Bronikow, the very village where a] 

H 2 



1 00 REVELATIONS 

few weeks previously the snow had prevented 
us from travelling by land. As we proceeded 
farther, the whole extent of land appeared a 
desert; only at long intervals some solitary 
small settlements were observable, with patches 
of tilled ground ; but even such vestiges of cul- 
tivation were few and far between. 

But I should now say something of the other 
persons on board our vessel. Apart from the 
steward (Prikazbschik) who had the command 
of the sailors who composed its crew, our com- 
pany consisted of two merchants returning from 
Tobolsk to Berezov ; and Mrs. Jaszczenko and her 
daughter, both going on a visit to her son, who 
was schoolmaster at the latter town. These 
passengers were left on board the vessel, to 
manage for themselves as well as they could. 
They accordingly chose their places amidst the 
bags of flour destined partly for Berezov, and 
partly for Obdorsk. 

The whole of the company, as may easily be 
imagined, was huddled up pell-mell amongst 
these sacks : the passengers used them as they 
liked ; and were, by turns, sitting, sleeping, and 
eating on them. In the middle, some space 
was left vacant which served as a common 



OF SIBERU. 101 

room. From it one flight of steps led to the 
deck, and another to the door opening on 
the water, which being the only passage 
through which light could be admitted into the 
interior, was on that account kept constantly 
ajar. 

The 1 9th of May will for ever remain engraven 
on the tablet of my memory, as on that day my 
life was within a hair's breadth of being cut off. 
At day-break, when the rays of the sun began 
to pierce our cabin through the small aperture 
called a window, I got up from my bed, intend- 
ing to enjoy the fresh air of the morning. 
Josephine and the other passengers were still 
asleep, and only a few sailors were on the deck, 
watching the progress of the vessel. The two 
merchants of Berezov were below, making pre- 
parations for their breakfast, and busily employed 
at their samovar. 

Through the open door, I could see the 
morning was most beautiful. The sun was 
rising in all his brilliancy, bathing his orb in the 
mirror-like waters of the Irtish ; and with his 
first rays magnificently gilding all the summit 
of the forests which extended along the banks ; 
while the interior of our vessel was filled with a 



1 02 REVELATIONS 

strong stench from skins, whisky, tar, and fish, 
and was so intolerable and nauseous, that I 
felt quite overcome by the different effluvia. To 
escape them I went on deck, but even there 
the smell of tobacco, with the suffocating miasma 
arising from below, totally destroyed the refresh- 
ing quality of the air. At this moment, a boat, 
such as is commonly attached by a rope to 
larger vessels, caught my eye, and, tempted to 
enjoy the morning air in all its freshness, after a 
short moment of hesitation, I jumped into 
it, and was delighted at being enabled to breathe 
freely. 

I remained there sitting quietly for some 
time, not the slightest idea of danger occurring to 
my mind, until I perceived that the boat was 
at some distance from the vessel, and was gra- 
dually drifting away. As it was tied with a 
rope, it could not be loosened at once, and in 
so far I thought I was safe. Still, seeing it in 
a moment drift rapidly to a considerable distance, 
a nervous terror came over me. It appeared 
as if really I was completely losing hold of 
the vessel, and was abandoned to the capricious 
waves. 

At one moment, however, the boat approached 



OF SIBERIA. 103 

SO near, that I thought I had a chance of 
escape. Seizing a rope, I attempted by a leap 
to gain a projecting part of the side of the 
vessel; but in leaping, I unluckily failed to 
reach it, so as to be able to preserve the 
balance, and by the violent movement I made, 
the boat being pushed away from beneath 
me to a distance of several steps, I was left 
with the whole weight of my body hanging 
over the water, having for my safeguard 
nothing but the rope, which I held fast with 
all my strength. 

Vessels on the Irtish have a quantity of 
ropes suspended all around; they serve both 
as a convenience for people in descending and 
coming up, from the boats, and also, in 
case of anybody falling overboard, of rescuing 
them from drowning. At first I endeavoured 
to extricate myself from my perilous situation 
by my own efforts, but seeing no chance of 
success, I began to cry for help. But nobody 
came to my rescue. My screams could scarcely 
be heard on deck, amidst the continual splash- 
ing of the oars, while inside, with the exception 
of the merchants at their tea, all were asleep. 
From holding the rope so long, my hands 



1 04 REVELATIONS 

were benumbed, my strength began to fail me, 
and I feared every moment that I should sink 
to the bottom of the river. 

In this dreadful suspense I was held for 
about a quarter of an hour, without any help 
coming. One of the two merchants, Kore- 
panow, had indeed heard, as he afterwards 
stated, some screams, but he had taken them 
for the cries of the rowers, such as were 
constantly heard on deck, and therefore paid 
no heed to them, until they struck him 
as a prolonged and monotonous wailing, com- 
ing from one particular spot, which induced 
him to look out of the door, and he then 
perceived my perilous situation. 

The son of this merchant, a youth of 
twenty, without a moment's hesitation, leapt into 
the boat, which was at some distance, and 
shoved it close to the vessel. Taking me 
then by my arm, he advised me to let go 
the rope, and fear nothing. However, ex- 
hausted, and almost at the last gasp, I feared 
to relinquish the rope, my last protection, seeing 
the water yawn beneath me, as I had even 
doubts that the young man in such a difficult 
position would be able to sustain my weight 



OF SIBERIA. 105 

without losing his balance, especially as he had 
to stretch across. But my situation was critical, 
and there was no alternative. With a desperate 
resolution, I gave up the rope, and he dropped 
me into the boat, which he had drawn as 
closely under the vessel as circumstances per- 
mitted. Here I stood up; but from the sus- 
pension I had undergone, my feet, my hands, 
and the whole of my body quivered like one 
in an ague fit. 

Josephine started from her slumber at the 
exclamations on deck from many voices : " The 
Polish lady is drowned !" In her fright she 
rushed out of the cabin half-dressed, fancying 
me already dead. 

Nobody, however, was more extravagantly 
rejoiced at my recovery, and nobody lifted up 
his hands so high to Heaven, in fervent thanks- 
giving, as the Cossack who escorted us, and 
who was also aroused from his sleep by the 
general uproar and alarm. This sympathy 
shown by the honest Cossack on my behalf 
moved me deeply ; and I failed not to express 
to him my sincere thanks. In explanation, 
however, he replied with as great a naivete as 
could be, but which went far to disenchant me : 



106 REVELATIONS 

" Your safety, lady, concerns me very near, as, 
had not God mercifully averted this misfortune, 
the consequences would have been most fatal 
to myself." 

The weather next day was very bad and 
stormy. It was impossible to remain on deck, 
owing to the excessive cold. The aspect of 
the country was uninviting and dreary; no 
population, no trace of cultivation; lower 
grounds densely overgrown with willows, and 
the uplands crowned with cedar, larch and 
fir. At night the wind increased to a perfect 
hurricane. The vessel was anchored, and re- 
mained so during the ensuing day. 

It is a tiresome thing to be moored. The 
play of the billows may for some time engage 
our attention; but it soon loses all interest by 
its monotonous uniformity. We had no other 
means of dispelling our ennui than by shut- 
ting ourselves in our cabin, and passing away 
the heavy hours in reading. Fortunately I 
had a few books with me. 

Towards evening, the storm seemed to 
abate ; the anchor was weighed and we went on. 
But we had hardly reached the middle of the 
river, when, owing to the great swell, the 



OF SIBERIA. 107 

vessel began to be tossed to such a degree, 
that we could not stand on our feet. Some 
of the passengers being unaccustomed to the 
motion, experienced sea-sickness. Mrs. Jaszc- 
zenko felt qualmish, her daughter was ill, 
Josephine suffered from head-ache ; and at last 
even I felt faint. Witnessing the sufferings 
of others, and being at a loss how to prevent 
them, I now began to think of myself I went 
on deck, where fresh air and cold soon dispelled 
my illness, and I have ever since, during the 
strongest gales, remained proof against such 
qualms. 

Again we were obliged to cast anchor, and 
wait till the storm ceased. It raged violently 
for two days. 

Poor Mrs. Jaszczenko could not be regarded 
without pity. During the storms on our voyage, 
she lay whole days with her face on the ground, 
almost in a state of insensibility, and as often 
as she raised up her head, she fainted. On 
the other hand, the men once used to voyages 
suffered nothing; they quietly took their tea, 
yawned, smoked, or slept. 

On the second day, towards evening, the 
wind again abated, and though the billows 



108 REVELATIONS 

on the river were still running high, we were 
not in the least sorry to resume our voyage. 

The river Irtish is really magnificent. 
When at its high tide in spring, it is several 
versts broad; the current is extremely rapid, 
and the river is hemmed in on both sides 
by elevated hilly banks, covered with primaeval 
forests, for the most part cedar. At the foot 
of the hills, in the deep glens, and on the 
islands, grow willows in thick impenetrable 
masses. The water of the river is very muddy, 
and on this account cannot be used either for 
drinking or cooking, without undergoing some 
process of purification. We had happily pro- 
vided ourselves with a filtering machine for our 
own use ; but for the accommodation of the 
rest of the passengers casks were kept filled 
with water, and the water only used after 
the sediment with which it was impregnated had 
settled. 

The weather continued bad. All the vernal 
and pleasant smiles with which the returning 
season had cheered us up at Tobolsk, had 
altogether vanished, and a storm compelled us 
again to cast anchor. Only with great diffi- 
culty could we on the fifth day of our voyage 



OF SIBERIA. 109 

reach Demiansk, one of the villages en route 
from Tobolsk to Berezov, consisting of about 
sixty houses. The distance of this village 
from Tobolsk is stated at two hundred versts ; 
but in my opinion it is rather a guess than 
certainty, as there exists not a trace of any 
road by land, nor are there any verst stones. 

Between Tobolsk and Demiansk we could 
still distinguish some vestiges of agriculture, 
but beyond that village northward through the 
whole extent of country, not a speck of tillage 
was seen. During our onward movement, 
although we were at the close of the month 
of May, all the verdure with which we had ob- 
served the woods in the vicinity of Tobolsk, -^^ ^"^ ^*'' 
seemed, the further we proceeded, to be 
diminishing, and gradually disappeared. Willows 
which commonly grow densely by each other, 
and are covered with rich foliage, stood erect 
with leafless branches, tall, thin, and grey, 
presenting the aspect of extensive woods of 
Italian poplars, when winter has stripped them 
of their leaves. Cedars, firs, and larches, with 
their perennial green branches, were the only 
trees that covered the nakedness of the vast 



no REVELATIONS 

forests. On the other hand, the farther we 
proceeded northwards, the hours of the night 
rapidly decreased, so much so that when we were 
a short distance from Demiansk, we had hardly 
any night, and the dawn of day followed closely 
on twilight. 

The weather continued excessively cold, but 
the atmosphere upon the whole was calm, until 
we arrived oflF Samarov. That village is con- 
sidered the principal station between Tobolsk 
and Berezov, and is an important point for com- 
merce, being situated on the confluence of two 
such great rivers as the Irtish and the Oby. 
It is inhabited chiefly by Russians, carrying on 
trade. Samarov is considered by travellers as 
lying half way between the above-named towns, 
and stands at the point which unites the dis- 
tricts of Tobolsk and Berezov. 

We had been full eight days on our voyage. 
During that interval, unmindfiil of my personal 
sorrows, my attention was engrossed with con» 
templating the splendid scenery before me. My 
eyes strayed in turn over the vast expanse of 
waters, and on the immense virgin forests 
extending far behind and before me. Their 



OF SIBERIA. Ill 

limits the sight strove in vain to reach ; ima- 
gination alone could supply them, either by 
stopping, in its soaring flight, on the one side, 
at the North Pole, the region of eternal ice, 
and the dreary solitudes of sea monsters ; or on 
the other, at the rocky wall of the Uralian chain, 
celebrated far and wide in popular stories and 
traditions for supernatural agencies and wonders, 
mere creations of fancy, but which obtain im- 
plicit credence from the natives, and are per- 
petuated by them, from generation to generation, 
as matters of religion and sacred truth. In 
pursuing the train of my associations farther, 
I embraced in them the whole extent of the 
land from the Oby to the Curalian Islands east- 
wards. I roamed through wastes of snow, ice, 
wildernesses, immense rivers, and forests with 
their lairs of wild and ferocious beasts. It 
seemed as though I were meeting knots of 
strangers dispersed here and there on that vast 
wilderness. Unused to the locality, they were 
straying amidst its solitudes in a forlorn con- 
dition, not unlike solitary groups of mourning 
orphans, and reduced to the sad necessity of 
fraternization with the animal tribe, of assimi- 



112 REVELATIONS 

lating their habits to theirs, and even of adopt- 
ing their manner of living, in order to protract 
their miserable existence. 

Nature, in all her original grandeur and sim- 
plicity, such as she presents herself to our view, 
under her primitive features, with marks typical 
of those impressed by the hand of the Creator, 
and as yet untouched and undefiled by man — 
such Nature has something wonderfully solemn 
in her aspect. The soul is absorbed in a reli- 
gious trance, and gliding, as it were, on the 
intermediate chain by which the Creator is 
linked with creation, feels itself exalted by con- 
templating the wonderful works of the creation 
of God. The heart is then enabled to lift itself in 
adoration of the Almighty, while at the same 
time it feels humbled in the presence of such 
wonders, and of that power which had called 
them into existence. 

Yet this impression, for the moment ele- 
vating, at length gave way to melancholy reflec- 
tions. " What is man ?", I asked myself in 
bewilderment, environed as I was with the stu- 
pendous works of the Almighty. '' What is his 
pitiable destiny in the unbroken chain of the 



OF SIBERIA. 113 

creation ?" He is but an atom amidst the 
component parts of the universe, not unlike a 
single leaf of those thick and dark forests 
extending before my eyes, torn down by a 
whirlwind, and driven to and fro on the face 
of the earth. 



VOL. I. 



1 14 REVELATIONS 



CHAPTER VII. 

Confluence of the Irtish and the Oby — Lowland and 
upland plain — The Tartar and the Ostiak boundary 
— Storm — ^Wild scenery — Stones of various colours 
in rivers — Kondisk Monastery — Soswa — Distant 
view of Berezov — ^Disembarkation — Aspect of the 
town. 

Having passed Samarov, we entered on the 
Oby, a magnificent sheet of waters in which the 
Irtish is engidfed. It does not, however, dis- 
appear immediately, but the two rivers, like a 
wedded couple, after they have united their 
existence and their estate, and assumed a com- 
mon name, preserve their individuality for some 
distance, flowing together in one current, and 
being easily distinguished by their difference of 



OF SIBERIA. 1 1 5 

colour. The waters of the Irtish, which are 
turbid and muddy, and on that account bear a 
brownish tinge, contrast strikingly with the clear, 
dark, and transparent waves of the majestic Oby. 

The latter river, thus swelled by the Irtish 
and other tributary rivers, and by innu- 
merable streams of Asiatic Russia and the 
eastern acclivity of the Uraliian range, may be 
seen flowing below Samarov northwards in all 
its grandeur, traversing an extensive plain, and 
then branching into numberless channels, each 
constituting a great river. No mean know- 
ledge is required for its navigation, to avoid 
being lost in its mazes, though all the currents 
point one way and tend to a common outlet. 

The tract through which the Oby meanders 
with outstretched branches, at times extending 
or narrowing its bed, is about fifty versts in 
breadth, and is broken by the river into innu- 
merable little islands, overgrown with weeping 
willows. This extensive plain, laved thus by the 
river, is again enclosed on both sides by high 
hilly banks covered with forests of cedar, larch, 
and fir. From these elevated banks begin the 
highlands, overlooking at a great altitude the: 
winding course of the river. 

I 2 



1 1 6 REVELATIONS 

The cold was insupportable, and the wind, 
which blew from the north, brought occasional 
drifts of snow. At the same time trees without 
any foliage, and the earth without the least 
verdure, gave no indication that we were at the 
close of May, or that we had twelve days before 
seen the spring, and enjoyed its genial, balmy 
air. Indeed another storm now burst forth, 
deepening the dismal aspect of the pictiu-e, and 
the wind became so boisterous that we were 
again obliged to lie at anchor. 

Not wishing to pass his time uselessly, the 
Captain accompanied by several men, embarked 
in two boats for the adjacent shore, where they 
cut down a beautiful cedar, and brought it off as 
a mast. They were not long in effecting their 
object. The cedar being felled on the nearest 
point of the shore, was dragged without any 
difficulty to the river, and then the current 
carried it without additional trouble alongside 
the vessel. 

The daughter of Mrs. Jaszczenko, a girl of 
fourteen, went on shore at the same time for a 
pleasure trip, and on her return, not unlike the 
dove of Noah's ark, brought back an emblem of 
hope. This was not an olive sprig, but a bunch 



OF SIBERIA. 1 17 

/ 

of currants, and a few leaves of crimson peony, tec. -.•• 
Here were indubitable signs of approaching 
spring. For my part, I greeted the currant 
sprigs and the peony with as tender an affection 
as I would old acquaintances in a strange land. 

All the way below Samarov, the country 
was a wild desert presenting not a vestige of 
human habitation; as though this wilderness 
was designed to constitute a line of demarka- 
tion between the settlements of the Tartar race 
and those of the nomade Ostiaks. 

Farther north, a few yourtas, or settle- 
ments, of Ostiaks, were occasionally observable. 
Whenever we met them, our steward was wont 
to enter into communication with the inhabit- 
ants, going himself on shore, or sending out 
a boat for the purpose of procuring provisions. 
In this manner, we frequently succeeded in 
getting ducks, eggs, or fish; though we were 
not always so fortunate. Our fare consisted 
of barley-gruel, or dumplings, made of flour of 
which we had a good provision. 

The stock of bread and meat which we 
had with us became useless, for what we 
did not soon consume was spoiled. Loaves 
of bread turned mouldy; and of the whole 



1 1 8 REVELATIONS 

stock, only biscuits were eatable. The rest of 
the passengers, more experienced than ourselves, 
had no bread, only biscuits, and were better 
off. 

c 

One day, on approaching an Ostiak colony, 
we observed our steward making preparations 
for going on shore. I inquired the reason, 
and was informed that he was desirous of 
purchasing a cow, to be supplied with milk 
during his stay on the wild shores of the 
Oby Sea. On learning this, I conceived also 
a desire to possess a cow for my future 
housekeeping at Berezov. The steward most 
willingly undertook the commission ; and in a 
few hours, to my great satisfaction, a very beau- 
tiful dun cow was brought in a boat, with a 
supply of hay sufficient for several days. For 
a treat, tea was immediately made. We had 
no lack of milk and cream, which added 
greatly to our comforts; and what was more, 
I had no longer a fear of getting consumptive 
without milk at Berezov, and this comfort, so 
important for me, I had procured at the ex- 
pense of only twenty-five paper rubles. 

The morning of the 28th of May, dawned 
beautifully, but was followed by a violent storm. 



OF SIBERIA. 119 

Not anticipating this sudden change, the vessel 
was in the middle of the river. An alarm was 
raised, and all was turmoil on board. It was 
safest to steer for a shallow place and anchor. 
On one side the bank was high and the current 
deep, and the gale just carried the vessel 
towards it; while it drove it from the other, 
where the river was less rapid and not so deep, 
and which seemed the more eligible refuge. 
The vessel was quite at the mercy of the 
hurricane. The most experienced men were 
called to the helm, and all hands to the oars. 
It was feared that the rudder would break, 
a circumstance which might have led to a serious 
catastrophe. Strong poles, and the largest 
oars, purposely kept for such casualties, were 
brought forward to strengthen it, and by such 
efforts at last we succeeded in reaching a bay 
sheltered from the force of the hurricane by 
. neighbo^ng fores, and there w J 
anchor. 

We were detained a whole day. The cold 
was piercing, and the snow fell fast amidst 
violent gusts of wind. At the dawn of the 
following day, the gale had lulled and we im- 
mediately started on our farther voyage. 



120 REVELATIONS 

In this part of the world it is only on the 
shores of the rivers that we find human habita- 
tions, for the inland country is entirely unin- 
habited. But even here the landscape has the 
appearance of a perfect desert. In our pro- 
gress we observed but a few solitary yourtas of 
the Ostiak, and the^e at a distance of a great 
many versts from each other. From our first 
entrance on the Oby, the character of the 
whole country continued unaltered. It was in- 
variably the same expanse of waters, the same 
kind of forests, with this only difference, that at 
every verst onward the country became more 
dreary and more solitary. Huge masses of rock 
lay along the shore, and some protruded their 
rugged, monstrous shapes from beneath the 
water, while their fantastic forms and gigantic 
dimensions were perfectly in unison with the 
wild grandeur of the surrounding scenery. 

No small degree of skill and caution was 
required on the part of the crew, while we 
continued our voyage, as the vessel had fre- 
quently hidden rocks to pass, on which with 
less caution, she might have gone to pieces. 
The least jerk, therefore, used to apprize us of 
danger, and caused perturbation and dismay. 



OF SIBERIA. 121 

On the shore I could observe abundance of 
small stones, diversified in shape and colour 
washed by the billows, and shining in the sand. 
Not understanding mineralogy I could not de- 
termine what they were; and was sorry for 
it. Some were most beautiful, both trans- 
parent and opaque; some all green, others 
smooth like marble, with veins of blue, yellow, 
and other colours running through them ; and 
many, and to my liking the most curious, were 
those which had the appearance of being strewn 
over with gold and silver sand. Some parts 
of the shore were more densely covered with 
them than others, and the stones wanted only 
polish to be exquisitely ornamental. 

We arrived at last off Kondinsk, a village of 
about twenty huts, inhabited solely by Russian 
settlers. This place is insignificant, and re- 
markable only for its Russo-Greek Monastery, 
transferred here from Berezov on the destruc- 
tion of that town by fire in 1798. I had no 
inducement, had there even been an opportunity, 
to examine the locality more accurately, the 
weather being exceedingly unfavourable, raw, 
cold and stormy; and both myself and Jose- 
phine were indisposed. She caught cold in 



122 REVELATIONS 

her face, and T was afflicted with erysipelas. 
We coTild not, without the danger of aggravating 
our sufferings, expose ourselves to cold and a 
bleak wind — we therefore kept to our cabins. 

I was by no means sorry that our prolonged 
voyages, at so inclement a season when the air 
could neither be warmed, dried, nor purified, 
was soon to terminate. Every discomfort during 
the journey is felt the more keenly when persons 
suffer from illness. 

At last we left the Oby and entered on the 
Soswa, one of the minor tributaries, though still 
large enough in its volume of water to surpass 
the largest rivers of the European continent. It 
rises in the Uralian mountains, and after absorb- 
ing in its course a number of smaller streams 
and rivers, falls into the Oby at no great 
distance from Berezov. 

No sooner had we entered on the Soswa, 
than all eyes turned towards the north ; and it 
was not long before a shout of joy was raised, 
" Berezov ! Berezov !" 

We had been a fortnight on our voyage. 
In such cases, the sight of the country to which 
one is proceeding forms usually an event of 
no small importance; and more especially 



OF SIBERIA. 123 

on a voyage which, pleasing as it might in 
other respects be, cannot after all' but prove ex- 
cessively irksome by its uniformity and sameness. 
An incident like the present, therefore, could 
not have been felt by us otherwise than as an 
interruption as gratifying as it was desirable. 
When the joyful exclamation of "Berezov" 
was raised, no ordinary excitement prevailed on 
board. All rushed on deck to see it, if possible, 
with their own eyes, as though they still were 
in doubt and could not trust to the testimony 
of others. I myself left my cabin and shared 
in the general impulse, eager to get a distant 
look of the place destined for my future abode. 

Curiosity being at length satiated, the next 
object of every passenger was his individual con- 
cerns, and to these we all directed our attention, 
according to the circumstances in which we were 
placed. Some betook themselves to washing 
and brushing their clothes ; others were busied 
with packing up their things and surveying their 
articles of merchandise. Nearly all wished to 
appear in their best trim. 

It was not until these particular arrange- 
ments had been duly terminated that public 



1 24 REVELATIONS 

affairs were thought of. Then, in honour of 
our vessel, it was determined to announce 
her arrival by firing three salutes. 

I looked on all these movements with in- 
terest, almost envying those passengers who 
on shores so remote could expect to meet with 
relations and friends — who had somebody to 
welcome, or at least to receive them at their 
domestic hearths. I, on the contrary, was 
neither expected nor had anybody to meet me, 
and having no inducement to change my 
travelling dishabille, I remained impassible at 
the door of my cabin, like St. John's statue 
standing on the edge of splashing wells and 
streams. 

At last, drawn along with the rest in the 
general vortex, I stepped on deck, as I thought 
I should have a good opportunity to see all 
the preparations for the salute. I had to 
wait a few moments, as the thunder-bearing 
machine had not yet been brought forward; 
but at length the steward made his appearance 
and a ridiculously diminutive cannon, of the 
shape of a good-sized rat, was brought after 
him. I could not help laughing at his apology 



OF SIBERIA. 125 

for the war engine. I could not think otherwise 
than that this was a joke and mystification ; 
yet the countenances of all concerned in the 
business were full of gravity. 

As soon as we had arrived near enough 
to Berezov, three salvos were fired, and I found 
to my astonishment that the report was far 
louder than I expected. Thence I could not 
help drawing this most instructive moral, which 
is not the worse for being found in many in- 
genious fables, that " it does not require to 
be great to make much noise in the world." 
Our vessel at last stopped. The anchor was 
cast, and passengers thronged to the boats all 
eager to land. 

The Cossack who escorted us and whose 
mother resided at Berezov, was the first that 
disembarked, having to procure for us a tem- 
porary lodging. Josephine and I remained on 
board, and we saw no earthly reason why 
we should be in a hurry to go ashore. 

I experienced not the least impatience for 
the Cossack's return, and though hours elapsed 
and he came not, I felt quite unconcerned. I 
employed the interval in taking a survey of 



126 REVELATIONS 

Berezov. I could discern two Russo-Greek 
churches built of brick, and a large house of 
wood, painted yellow, standing on a hill, over- 
looking the river. The rest of the town 
consisted of small wooden houses, the largest 
two stories high, and all looking dingy and 
blackened with rain. The town was surrounded, 
except on the side fronting the river, by a 
cedar forest, presenting an interminable back- 
ground of wood. 

The Horodnitchee, who is the highest func- 
tionary resident in the town, came alongside in 
a large and comfortable boat to convey us to 
our temporary lodgings, till we could find 
some more suitable. Notwithstanding this 
civility and his apologies for having kept us 
waiting two hours, with a pressing invitation 
to us to go on shore with him in his own 
boat, I could" not leave the vessel without some 
apprehensions and misgivings, as Josephine and 
I were the only persons now on board, all having 
gone ashore immediately on our coming to 
anchor, and everything in the bark being left to 
take care of itself. Without letting a word 
drop before the functionary, I communicated 



OF SIBERIA. 127 

this fact to our Cossack, but he assured me 
that there was nothing to fear, as all was per- 
fectly safe. Without more words, therefore, 
we got into the boat, the Horodnitchee and 
the Cossack with us, and left the vessel and its 
contents under the safeguard of the public faith. 



128 REVELATIONS 



CHAPTER VIII. 

The bay — Lodgings — Want of market — Sour ducks — 
Nights with day-light — Breakfast on water — New 
Lodgings — Supper — Arrangement of the rooms — 
Superfluous gifts — The hostess — Sudden summer 
heat. 

We disembarked at the quay in the bay, 
and found a crowd of people of all classes, old 
and young, standing on the shore, the women 
dressed in gaudy, bright colours, their gowns, 
pelisses, and handkerchiefs shining like so many 
flower beds, as if it were a fair. Seeing this 
assemblage of people at one point, not on 
Sunday, but on a working day, I conceived 
quite a different idea of Berezov from what I 
had previously entertained. 



OF SIBERIA. 129 

Making our way through this throng, we 
proceeded, in company with the imperial func- 
tionary, to the lodgings prepared for us. 

After so long a voyage, and confinement in 
a narrow cabin, where we could scarcely make 
three steps across, it was quite a relief to enjoy 
the unconstrained freedom of our feet, and a 
luxury to be put in possession of two airy, 
light, and cleanly rooms. The only drawback 
was, that the fire being lighted in the stove 
shortly before our arrival, as is usual on such 
occasions, there was a suflfocating smell fi'om 
it. But the Cossack, who from our guard had 
become our landlord, suggested we should in 
the meanwhile occupy the room of his own 
family ; and according to the custom of the 
country, we were treated with tea. As we 
were now, however, close upon St. Peter's Day, 
a periocl of strict Lent, the tea was served 
without milk or cream ; and tea is a beverage 
which I could never bear without the latter ac- 
cessories. Moreover, we were very hungry. 
But as it would have been anything but good 
taste to impose laws on hospitality so cour- 
teously offered to us, we repressed our desire 
for more substantial food, comforting ourselves 

VOL. I. K 



130 REVELATIONS 

with the idea of having our own household 
arranged very speedily, when we could do what- 
ever we wished. When the stove had burnt 
out, and the rooms were ventilated, we retired 
to our rooms. 

All our luggage, together with the cow, was 
still on board the vessel ; and we were told that 
we could hardly have them this day, as it was 
difficult to find people who would disembark 
them ; and besides, our present lodging being 
occupied but temporarily, it was difficult to 
provide a place for them. Not seeing much 
reason, therefore, why we should be in a hurry, 
I asked our landlord if he could procure us 
some articles of food from the market, when he 
replied that there was none in the town. 

" No market ! Then where do you get your 
food r I inquired. 

" Everybody gets his food where he can," 
was his reply. 

I never supposed, nor could any such idea 
have ever entered into my imagination, that a 
town could exist without a market. Yet such 
was the case here ; and we saw that we could 
not do otherwise than accommodate ourselves 
to the exigency. 



OF SIBERIA. 131 

I inquired of the Cossack whether he could 
not supply us with something out of his own 
pantry ; but his reply was, that he had nothing, 
and all he could give us at that moment was 
sour duckSy which perhaps would not be to our 
taste. 

The hungry are never over dainty. Think- 
ing, therefore, that the ducks, of which he 
spoke so disparagingly, might not be so bad, 
and that hunger might easily reconcile our 
palates to a worse dish, I requested that they 
should be served. This being done, we found to 
our great mortification that " sour " was but a 
euphonious term for meat absolutely putrid. 

We could not touch even a morsel of such 
disgusting stuff, and there remained no alterna- 
tive but to betake ourselves to bed, without 
appeasing the cravings of hunger. 

There was no night, but the perfect light 
of day prevailed the whole time. This differ- 
ence we could not observe before, while we were 
on board the vessel, through the narrow window 
of oiu: cabin, for, though it might have been clear 
on the deck, the light even of noon could but 
scantily penetrate into our dormitory. But 
here the case was different; it was continual 

K 2 



X 



132 REVELATIONS 

daylight, without any distinction between day 
and night ; and this the more visible from 
the houses in Siberia having an excessive num- 
ber of windows. I can hardly account for the 
introduction of such an absurd taste in archi- 
tecture, and one so particularly unsuited to a 
northern climate. 

What with the glare of light streaming upon 
us, the keenness of hunger, and the novelty 
of our position, neither Josephine nor myself 
could for a single moment close our eyes, and 
we passed the whole night in restless attempts 
to compose ourselves. 

No sooner did the people of the house awake 
in the morning, than we saw a tea-urn, with 
boiling water and milk, figure on our table ; 
but tbe good people probably had forgotten 
that we had neither tea nor sugar, as our 
things were yet on board the vessel. 

Josephine and I exchanged looks, and easily 
guessed, that, after the last day's fast, we were 
doomed again to a meagre diet. But we 
gathered strength from resignation, and the 
samovar being arranged by our landlord's 
daughter, after she left the room, we filled 
our cups with water and milk, and baby-like 



OF SIBERIA. 133 

partook of this innocent beverage. But, wish- 
ing to put a stop to our discomfort, we im- 
mediately afterwards went out to look for a 
lodging where we might in some manner or 
other establish ourselves. 

In our search after lodgings, we went straight 
to the house recommended to us at Tobolsk, 
by Colonel Krzyzanowski, where, as he assured 
us, he was comfortably lodged for fourteen 
months. The proprietor was a Cossack, named 
Kozlow. 

There being no market at Berezov, and not 
having any servant, it was idle to think of any 
arrangement for a separate household. We 
were soon convinced that we could not do 
otherwise than take board and lodging, as 
all strangers and even government officials, who 
arrive here without families, usually do; and 
this the more, as no provisions could be got 
except those supplied at the government con- 
tract, and from government stores. Persuaded, 
therefore, that this was by far the better course, 
we made proposals to the Cossack to that eflfect, 
and these being agreed to, our contract was 
completed, and people were dispatched to fetch 
our luggage from the vessel. 



1 34 REVELATIONS 

Meanwhile our new landlady, on hearing 
that we had not yet dined, immediately made 
arrangements to prepare a repast for us, and 
in a few moments we saw a dish of excellent 
gruel, boiled with milk, placed on our table, 
•together with some cakes. She also promised 
she would procure us some game, and other 
more substantial articles of food for oiu* next 
meal. By this, and several other things that 
came within our observation, we were soon con- 
vinced that the different reports we had heard 
at Tobolsk, in disparagement of Berezov, wpre 
not founded in truth. We saw plenty of cattle, 
and of a superior breed. Our landlady alone 
kept ten cows ; and many of her neighbours 
had as many, and some even a greater number. 

We lost no time in arranging the rooms 
assigned to us. They were three in number, 
and the floor of each was very clean, and the 
walls papered. Our things were safely brought 
from the vessd ; and, having unpacked and put 
them all in order, we were delighted with the 
appearance of our new home. 

Both the landlord and the landlady were all 
attention to us,, and we could even observe that 
their civility was not unmixed with a good 



OF SIBERIA. 135 

deal of sympathy for our fate. Their services, 
therefore, instead of being mercei^ary, as they 
commonly are, seemed rather a protection which 
they extended to us — a helping hand of kind- 
ness in distress and need. They both assisted 
us in arranging our chambers, and were most 
anxious to make them as comfortable and 
snug as possible. 

Thus we were happily settled in our habita- 
tion, everything was in its place and in order. 
We had even more furniture than we could 
find room for. Among such superfluities, in 
particular, was a sofa, a table, and two arm- 
chairs, which we had brought from Tobolsk. 
They had been given us by Onuphry Vietrasz 
Kiewicz, who, in his excessive anxiety for us, 
thinking we might want them at Berezov, 
abridged his own comforts, and packed them 
with our other effects on board the vessel. 
His gift, which was a privation to him, now 
happened to prove but an incumbrance to us, 
as there was furniture enough in the house, 
which, though not exquisite, and only of rough 
wood, was yet good enough. These pieces of 
furniture had, however, the most prominent and 
the most sunny position — that is, the place of 



136 REVELATIONS 

honour assigned to them, to add as it were 
some splendour to our humble domicile. 

Looking on these objects of superfluity, I 
often thought how far a noble mind, when not 
corrupted by fortune, or crushed by adversity 
— placed though he may be amidst most trying 
circumstances — can be useful to others. This 
certainly was evidenced by the example set by the 
donor of these souvenirs. I have myself wit- 
nessed him struggUng with poverty, as he was 
compelled to maintain himself by the labour of 
his own hands; but in spite of his limited 
means, he was never weary of assisting his com- 
patriots in their difficulties ; by his advice,, his 
intercession, his personal services, and not unfre- 
quently even by his purse. 

Our landlady who was well off, thrifty and 
hospitable, though rustic in her manners, be- 
haved towards us with great kindness, not in 
the manner in which it is customary to treat 
boarders in our own towns, where they have 
bread dealt out to them by morsels, and every 
additional comfort calculated and bargained for ; 
but she considered us rather as guests whom 
Providence had brought under her roof. What- 
ever her house possessed was placed at our 



OF SIBERIA. 137 

ser '^.e — as nice cakes, and good cream, and 
other articles of the best quality, such as made 
our food, not only p&latable, but almost luxu- 
rious. Yet I cannot say but that the appear- 
ance of some of the dishes was very strange, 
and at first repulsive to us. Such were the 
roast duck, with a cold sauce prepared of 
vinegar and cream, and a meat pudding botted 
in milk. But amidst a variety of dishes, which 
were at each meal brought on our table, we had 
only to choose, and need not be hungry. 

After a day or two, it suddenly became very 
hot. It seemed as though we had made an 
abrupt leap trom winter to summer. One day 
we were obliged to have a fire in the stove, and 
on the next the heat was intolerable. The 
whole face of the earth was then brown, and 
the trees naked ; but now we saw grass spring- 
ing up, plants sprouting, trees bursting into 
leaves ; and the hollyhock appearing in bloom 
The change was as sudden as it was marvellous. 

We could scarcely believe that within the 
short interval of eight hours. Nature had 
effected such a great change. What had become 
of spring ? what of that spring in which our 
senses are fffled with such rapturous delight, 



138 REVELATIONS 

and which divides the frost of winter from the 
sultriness of summer? Here the leap is in- 
stantaneous. Yesterday the warmest clothing 
hardly sufficed to keep me warm; to-day again, 
the heat is so intense that we are obliged to cool 
the water we wish to drink with ice. 

The day was everlasting, and whether we 
clothed our eyes or awoke from sleep, day-light 
was constantly streaming in at the windows, and 
circling over the horizon. No dew was to be 
met with here ; and the earth had nonie the 
whole summer. 

Oh, lovely spring of my country ! how I 
shall ever remember, and ever long for thee ! 



OF SIBERIA. 139 






CHAPTER IX. 

Rapidity of vegetation — Preparations for the fisheries 
in the Oby Gulf — Performance of a religious rite — 
A family farewell — A touching scene — Site of Berezov 
— Streets — Structure of the houses — Churches — Burial 
places — Menzikov's corpse — His grave — Graves of 
other exiles — Classification of the inhabitants — Pro- 
visions — A Siberian school. 

With all these drawbacks, however, I must 
confess that Berezov did not appear to me so 
terrible as various reports had represented it. 
There is a proverb which says, " that even the 
Devil was handsome when he was young;" 
and this might be as fitly applied to certain 
regions in the regenerating season of spring. 

In July everything around Berezov, appeared 
in new and gay apparel. Larch trees were decked 



140 REVELATIONS 

with tiny leaves of the freshest verdure, filling 
the air with sweet perfume. The grass, quickened 
by the moisture of the thawing soil, grew in- 
credibly fast. The river Soswa overflowing its 
banks far and wide, presented to the eye an im- 
mense expanse of water, encircling with her 
arms numberless islands covered with willows, 
and disappearing in the distance like a mirror 
of clear azure. Nearer us, it is rolling and 
roaring, and dashing its foaming billows against 
the precipitous banks of the town. 

Along the shore lay a number of fishing-boats 
and barges, prepared for a voyage to the Oby 
sea. They formed a forest of masts, curiously 
rigged and decked with numberless coloured 
flags, which flaunted on the air. Smaller craft 
were plying to and fro between the shore, and 
the larger vessels freighted with stores and 
provisions. These preparations, unusual in this 
remote spot at any other season, rendered the 
town quite animated. 

Our host, though an aged man, had engaged 
to take part with others in a fishing expedi- 
tion ; the fishing season on the Oby sea, being 
for the inhabitants of this part of the world, 
what the harvest season is in other countries. 



OF SIBERIA. 141 

Everybody in good health and vigour, not hav- 
ing any more important employment at home, 
participates in it. The necessary preparations 
being completed, the scene of taking farewell at 
home followed. 

In one of our rooms, screened by curtains, 
was an image of the tutelar saint of the house, 
surrounded by a number of other images of 
saints of less dimensions, decked all in gold 
or silver apparel. On the eve of parting, the 
aged man, accompanied by aU his famay, 
entered the room, and knelt before this shrine, 
touching the floor several times with his 
forehead, and repeating a short prayer. All 
then arose, and the venerable old man, with 
tears in his eyes, bade farewell to his wife 
and children, and to us, whom he con- 
sidered as belonging to his family. At the 
same time, he addressed a few words to his 
wife, commending us to her particular protec- 
tion and care. Then amidst the tears of 
all, he proceeded to the place of embarkation. 

He was accompanied by his family, and by 
a large number of his friends, who waited 
on the shore till they saw him safe on board 
the vessel. 



- A 



142 REVELATIONS 

My heart was fiill, and tears gushed involun- 
tarily from my eyes. For my part, I am not 
conscious that greatness, or splendour, or the 
contrivances of luxury, have any attraction for 
me, or that I ever longed for the possession 
of them ; but a neat and cleanly dwelling, 
however humble, where concord, order, and 
competence reign, has invariably had an un- 
common charm for me. In such a place I 
have always been desirous to live and die. 
Throughout my life, feelings of the heart 
alone constituted my world, and from them 
alone sprjihg all my delights and sorrows, my 
hours of happiness and of pain. I derived my 
bliss more from the hand of natiu*e than from 
society. But alas ! this was but a dream — an 
idle reverie. It was just on that point that the 
thunderbolt had struck, and at one blow de- 
molished all my joys. 

As July advanced, a northern breeze cooled 
the air, and there were not so many mosquitoes. 
I now frequently walked out, in order to get 
a view of the town, and become acquainted, 
as far as possible, with its environs. 

Berezov is a district town of the government 
of Tobolsk, situated 64° latitude, on the left 



OF SIBERIA. 143 

side of the Soswa, which, at a short distance 
from it, ^ empties itself into the Oby. 

The banks of the river, on which the town is 
built, are elevated. The soil is sandy, and the 
streets are always dirty and muddy, even during 
the greatest summer heat. On the surface of 
the mud, however, during summer, a dry in- 
crustation is formed; but woe to the person 
who, trusting in its apparent solidity and firm- 
ness, should venture to direct his unfortunate 
feet on it, as the deceitful crust would break 
under him, and he would have hard work to 
emerge from the quagmire beneath. 

Communication from one house to another is 
therefore not easy, and boards, large, long 
wooden planks, and round stems of whole trees, 
are laid across the streets, to facilitate it. In 
some places, we observed pools of clear water, 
too deep to be ever dried up. These pools 
are honoured by the inhabitants with the appel- 
lation of ozera, or lakes. 

In our towns such a wretched state of 
things would never be tolerated; for what 
inhabitants would like to have their houses built 
in streets which are impassable for any vehicle ? 
But here, this inconvenience is of no import- 



1 44 REVELATIONS 

ance. During the whole summer we did not 
see one carriage pass through the streets. There 
are no wheels, no carts, no horses, and there are, 
of course, no roads. In town, all communi- 
cations between the inhabitants are effected 
on foot, and out of its precincts, by boats on 
the river. 

The whole surface of the district of Berezov 
has as yet remained untouched by the wheel. 
No trace of a furrow is seen on it. Nor 
indeed would a road be of any use, while 
the whole extent of land is but an uninter- 
rupted track of wilderness. The few inhabi- 
tants that belong to this district, are settled 
only on the banks of rivers; and it is chiefly 
by means of water communication that they 
provide themselves with the necessaries of life, 
as wood for fuel and building, and the different 
articles of food and of barter, which they carry 
on with the Ostiaks and the Samoieds. The 
rest of the Upperlands, stretching as far and 
as wide as iniagination can conceive, has, on its 
whole extent, not a single town, not a village, 
nor even a single human hut. It is a complete 
desert, inhabited only by wild beasts. 

Owing to a complete want of roads from 



OF SIBERIA. 145 

one place to another, the country presents 
an aspect totally different from other regions. 
Only when swamps, marshes, and rivers are 
frozen over, and when their surface can bear the 
weight of the rein-deer, can any traffic by land 
be prosecuted, and at that season Berezov may 
be seen somewhat enlivened by the appearance 
in the streets of these most useful animals. 

The town does not consist of more than 
about two hundred houses, nearly all of which 
are but a story high. The principal reason for 
the adoption of this style of building is the 
humidity of the ground. The ground-floor 
of a dwelling is appropriated to the kitchen, 
the pantry, and other household offices ; the 
upper part alone is inhabited. I could never 
explain to myself satisfactorily why Berezov has 
been commonly described as an island, as it ia 
washed only on one side by the river, and oL 
all other sides is continuous land. 

Even the Russians give the place this false 
designation, with the difference that they speak 
of it in the plural number, as Berezovski 
Ostrowa (Berezovian Islands). The name of 
Berezovian Isles is meant for the whole flat, 

VOL. I. L 



146 REVELATIONS 

extensive plain on the right bank of the Soswa, 
traversed by that river, and intersected by other 
tributary rivers and streams, which thus form 
a sort of continental archipelago of islands, 
formerly called by the name of Berezovian 
Islands, and which on that account might have 
caused^. Berezov, after its elevation to the rank 
of a district town, to be called after them. 

Berezov has two churches, one called Spaska 
the other Zamczaina, and both are built of 
brick. The appellation of the latter signifies 
transfluvian, the church being situated on the 
opposite side of a deep ravine, which, during 
the inundation of the Soswa, is filled with 
water from that river. At that time, the church 
is only accessible by a bridge constructed over 
the ravine. It stands on a hilly bank, from 
which the view is beautiful. A sombre old 
forest of larch trees {Pinus cembra), surrounds 
the sacred edifice. 

According to tradition, the larches of this 
forest are a remnant of a sacred grove, dedi- 
cated to idolatrous worship by the ancient 
Ostiaks. Up to the present day, although a 
considerable number of the Ostiaks have been 



OF SIBERIA. 147 

converted to Christianity, the neophytes have 
not discontinued the worship of ancient larch 
trees, which prevailed among their ^ fore- 
fathers. 

Near the sylvan church is an aristocratic 
burial-place, adorned with monuments of stone 
and marble, though the most recent are of 
iron. Another burial-ground, appropriated to 
the poor, lies on the other side of the town, in 
the forest. 

The Spaska church is situated in the oppo- 
site quarter of Berezov. Formerly there was 
a burial-place adjacent, but by order of the 
Government this has of late been abolished 
and another opened in the forest. At a little 
distance from the latter is the grave of Men- 
zikov. 

This last resting-place of a celebrated man 
was discovered only a few years ago, whether 
accidentally, or after a search, nobody can tell. 
His body was exhumed, and was found clad in 
the uniform of his time, completely frozen, and 
in perfect freshness, as though it had been 
buried but yesterday. The earth near Berezov 
never entirely thaws, even in summer, when the 

L 2 



148 REVELATIONS 

heat is most intense, but merely on the surface 
or to a very superficial depth.* 

The body of the once mighty minister and 
imperial favourite was again buried, and the 
grave marked by a small earthen mound, covered 
over with turf. It is surrounded also by a 
wooden rail, which does not promise much 
diu-ability. No stone, no inscription whatever 

* It has been observed that the earth in the northern 
parts of Siberia is congealed to an extraordinary depth, 
and probably has ever been so ; but it much varies in 
degree at different places. Hedenstrom made several 
trials at Tomsk, and found the ground only frozen to 
the depth of thirty-five inches, latitude 56° 50'. At 
Yakutsk, again, 62^ north latitude, the Russian 
American Company bored for water in the court-yard 
of their establishment to the depth of three hundred 
and eighty feet; and the ground was still frozen and 
no water found. In that same town the inhabitants 
have cellars under all their houses made in the frozen 
ground, precisely as ice-houses are made in other 
countries. In summer, when the heat is as excessive 
as the cold is in winter, they place all their fresh 
provisions, such as milk, meat, and fish in these cellars, 
where everything becomes frozen in two hours. They 
likewise construct their graves. in the same way, except 
that they make large fires above, and bum the holes in 
the ground. 



OF SIBERIA. 149 

announces who Ues beneath ; and in a short 
time, it is most probable no trace will remain 
on earth commemorative of a man bom under 
such a singular star — who rose from the hum- 
blest class of society to the highest dignities — 
who held for a long time the balance of nations 
in his hand — ^who had placed his descendants 
within a single footstep of the throne — and who, 
rapid as had been his rise, was still more 
rapidly precipitated into the abyss of misery and 
oblivion. 

The inhabitants of Berezov preserve as yet 
in their memory the particular spot where Men- 
zikov, during his banishment, lived ; and where 
stood the hut in which he lodged, near the 
Spaska church. The hut, unfortunately, was 
burnt down during the great fire of 1798, by 
which nearly the whole town was reduced to 
ashes. 

It is also related, on no other authority than 
what the people have heard from older persons, 
that subsequent to his downfall, Menzikov be- 
came very religious, that he used to go with his 
axe to the forest to fell the trees, and that he 
died a starost, or an elder of the Spaska 
church. 



1 50 EETELATIONS 

At the Spaska church, a missal is preserved, 
a gift from the Princess Olga Dolgoruki, another 
great personage, who was banished to Berezov. 
I have myself se^i the missal, which is inscribed 
with her autograph. I was also told that in 
the same diurdi two children of Menzikov's 
daughter were buried. In what spot Prince 
Ddigoruld and Osterman were buried nobody 
could inform me. Berezov might be ssud to be 
the Necropolis of Russian greatness. 

The population of the town consists chiej9y 
of Cossacks, on whom it is incumbent to 
watdi over the security of the country ; but the 
whole being in a state of perfect peace, their 
service is limited to keeping watch at the few 
government offices, and carrying official mes- 
sages from this place to Tobolsk. At other 
times, they devote themselves to commercial 
pursuits, which are for the most part carried on 
with the Ostiaks, and constitute the principal 
and almost the sole source of their livelihood 
and their wealth. From his infancy, the Cos- 
sack of this place is impressed with the idea 
that he is bom for commerce, and being trained 
to it by his parents, becomes acquainted with all 
its details and mysteries. 



OF SIBERIA. 151 

There are several shops in the town, in 
which different articles can be purchased, as 
calico, tea, sugar, confectionary, wine, &c. Flour 
and other victuals, or what is commonly termed 
" the staff of life," are, according to the quantity 
required for home consumption, bought by the 
inhabitants from vessels when they arrive, and 
laid up for the whole winter. 

There being no market, every householder 
must procure provisions elsewhere, or devise 
some means by which he may be enabled to 
obtain them himself The river and the forest 
thus become the market-place, and skill and 
perseverance are disbursed in place of money. 

Berezov is divided into two parishes of the 
Russo-Greek Church, and is the residence of a 
Pope and Protopope. It is also the seat of the 
district government, and of its jurisdiction in all 
its different ramifications, in accordance with 
the general regulation of the whole Russian 
empire, with the sole exception of the so-styled 
Marshal of the Noblesse, there being nobody 
here whom that dignitary could represent. The 
whole duty of the functionaries, after all, is 
almost nominal, as scarcely any cases come 
under their consideration. 



152 REVELATIONS 

In accordance with the general regulations, 
there is likewise a district school, composed of 
two classes, where the Cossacks, and nearly all 
the citizens, send their children to be taught 
reading and writing. The studies do not, how- 
ever, extend very iFar; for no sooner do the 
parents perceive that their children have learned 
reading with facility, and the art of casting up 
accounts with the Ostiaks, than they take them 
away from school, as, in their opinion, any fur- 
ther learning would only be a waste of time. 



'4 



OF SIBERIA. 153 



CHAPTER X. 

Mosquitoes — Visits — Bashfulness of a hostess — A 
merchant widow's house — Objects of luxury and 
European taste — Not at home — Summer heat — 
Coiutesy of the Berezovian maids — Flight — Arrival 

of Madame X A Berezovian Bloomer — A Polish 

maid.servant. 

What a pity that one cannot profit by the 
fine but short summer moments at Berezov. 
The sight of a beautiful forest almost touching 
the threshold of the house, the deep shade 
beneath the far spreading branches of tall 
cedars, or of deep green larches, was deli- 
ciously inviting, and we often were tempted to 
seek refuge amidst it from the piercing rays 
of the sun ; but no sooner did we venture into 
the shade, than we were surrounded by dense 



1 54 REVELATIONS 

swarms of mosquitoes, which starting from 
their ambuscades, attacked us on all sides. 
There was no possibility of repelling such 
myriads of blood-thirsty assailants. Yet after 
covering our faces with visors of hair, with 
which the lady of General Potemkin had pro- 
vided us at Tobolsk, and our hands with thick 
gloves, and being otherwise armed, cap-a-pie, 
we stoutly marched on, nothing daimted, to the 
encounter, repelling their attacks as courage- 
ously as we could ; but all our efforts proved 
unsuccessful. After a short and desperate 
combat, we were obliged to beat a retreat, 
blistered from head to foot. Finding it quite 
impossible to make excursions in the forest, we 
resolved to cultivate our acquaintance with the 
persons of the place ; and, as the Horodnitchee 
was the principal inhabitant, and had already 
several times called on us, we thought it would 
be most becoming to commence our round of 
visits with him. 

We accordingly called at his house, and were 
ushered in. Here we were welcomed by a 
young and handsome lady, who proved to be his 
wife. She said not a word, but showed by a 
pleasing smile that she was gratified at our 



OF SIBERIA. 155 

visit. Presently she left the room to look for 
her husband, who in a short time arrived. 
Meanwhile we looked round the apartments, 
which were particularly neat and clean. 

A few minutes afterwards, the youthful lady of 
the house reappeared, more handsomely dressed. 
She was preceded by a servant with a tray loaded 
with a variety of sweetmeats and confectionary, of 
which, with divers signs and smiles, but not utter- 
ing a single word, she politely pressed us to partake. 
The expression of her coimtenance was that of 
exceeding bashfulness ; but as she was very 
young, handsome, and of a mild disposition, I 
began to feel an instantaneous affection for her, 
such as is frequently experienced at the sight 
of a shy child shrinking at the appearance of 
strangers, and displaying only to the family circle 
all the genuine charms and beauty of her 
character. 

I endeavoured in every possible way to re- 
assure her, and therefore frequently addressed 
my conversation solely to herself. She appeared, 
however, scarcely to understand my friendly 
wishes, for her replies to my remarks were 
whispered in her husband's ears, and he, like an 
echo, repeated her words aloud. Fearing lest 



156 REVELATIONS 

OUT first visit would prove too severe a task for 
the young hostess, I rose to take leave, when 
she suddenly exclaimed, " Da Kakje ? Samovar !" 
(How can you leave us ? the tea-urn !) These 
were the first words we had heard her utter. 

Thinking that our departure, without comply- 
ing with her request, might he construed by her 
husband into a want of courtesy ; and that she 
herself might feel grieved, we consented to 
remain to tea, and then separated, as I had good 
reason to think, on the best possible terms. 

Having once started on our wandering tour, 
after leaving the Horodnitchee's house, we 
thought we might at the same time call on a 
Madame Nizegorodtyow, the relict of a wealthy 
merchant, to whom we had been furnished with 
a letter of introduction by her daughter at 
Tobolsk. This lady's residence was the largest 
in the town, and by far the finest. On my first 
arrival at Berezov I was, as I have already 
described, particularly struck by its appearance. 
It comprised a central structure, occupied by 
herself and her family, and two wings, each one 
story high, appropriated to the servants. The 
court-yard was enclosed with a strong wooden 
fence, which, as well as the whole mansion, was 



OF SIBERIA. 157 

painted yeflow; contrasting strongly with the 
rest of the dingy wooden houses of the town, 
and the dark forest scenery in the background. 

We were just entering the first open door, 
when we were met by a young man, who, in a 
most polite manner, offered to lead us to the 
mistress of the house. Having conducted us 
through a suite of apartments, well furnished 
and exquisitely clean, he showed us to a draw- 
ing-room, when, as we looked round, he 
suddenly disappeared, not unlike an ethereal 
substance dissolved in space. We had some 
misgivings — and we were not far wrong — that 
he was a little annoyed at the incompleteness of 
his toilet, as he was attired in his dressing- 
gown. But we waited and waited, and nobody 
appeared, though we every moment expected to 
see the mistress of the house. Meanwhile, we 
felt not the least impatient, as the position in 
which we happened to be placed rather amused 
us by its novelty. Moreover, everything on 
which we fixed our eyes struck us with amaze- 
ment, by its rarity, exquisiteness and even 
luxury. In any other part of the world, these 
objects would certainly not have so absorbed my 
attention ; but to meet such objects of splendour, 



158 REVELATIONS 

and of European taste and industry at Berezov, 
in the land of the wild Ostiaks — at this ex- 
tremity and last nook of the world — was, I must 
confess, what I never could have anticipated. 

The mansion — for it might justly be styled 
such — was spacious and commodious, containing 
stately apartments, with lofty windows, com- 
manding in front a view of the boimdless sheet 
of water and magnificent forest. Every pane 
of glass was exquisitely clean and spotless ; 
rows of flower-pots stood in the windows, with 
all sorts of plants, vigorous and fresh ; and all 
the more charming, from their being so rare in 
that desolate region. Mirrors of enormous size, 
mahogany ftirniture, paintings, crystal and china 
vases and silver plate, bore testimony to the 
wealth of their owner, and to her European 
taste and refinement. With such things around, 
one could easily forget that the locality was 
Berezov ; and forget I did. For a moment, 
even the purpose of my visit passed from my 
mind, so completely was I absorbed in delightftJ 
recollections. 

At length the door opened, and I was re- 
minded of the object for which I had come. I 
raised my eyes, but instead of the lady of the 



OF SIBERIA. 159 

house, for whom we had so long been waiting, 
the young man whom we had first encountered 
again presented himself, now attired in a stylish 
velvet dressing-gown. 

This Siberian beau, we now learned, was the 
widow's son. He said that he came to inform 
us that his mother was not at home ; but had 
gone to call on her daughter, the wife of the 
director of police. If we would wait, however, 
he would immediately send a message to apprise 
her of our visit, and he was sure she would 
eagerly return. Of course, we could not con- 
sent to such an arrangement, and took leave, 
promising to call some other day. 

The heat now grew insupportable, and kept 
us imprisoned in-doors. There was no dew at 
night, no cooling breeze of sunset, no fresh air 
of morning ; but ever and ever incessant sun- 
shine burning and scorching unremittingly. 
The Sim made scarcely a momentary dip under 
the horizon, even then not entirely concealing 
his burning rays, and soon he lifted up his fiery 
orb again. It was impossible to breathe — im- 
possible to sit in a chair — impossible to do 
any work. Utter lassitude crept over the whole 
frame, repressing all vigoiu* and vital power. 1 



1 60 REVELATIONS 

moved from place to place in search of relief, 
hoping to find some cool spot, but in vain. 
Sometimes I threw myself on the floor, or 
dragged my steps to a bath, where I deluged 
myself with buckets of cold water. This cer- 
tainly was refreshing, and did me good ; but 
the benefit derived from even such a mode of 
cooling would be but momentary, and was far 
from making me insensible to the overpowering 
hot blast of the surrounding atmosphere. From 
this I became so debilitated, that my feet began 
to swell, and I grew apprehensive of dropsy. 

We were told that the current of air on the 
river side, was usually far cooler than in other 
places. Towards evening, when the heat aug- 
mented in intensity, we would proceed to 
this favoured locality. But here we found our 
expectations of relief sadly frustrated, being 
assailed on all sides by a cloud of merciless 
mosquitoes, who. could only be repelled by a 
great amount of exertion. 

On the occasion of our first visit to the 
river, this was not our only mischance. The 
young women of the Berezovian Cossack fami- 
lies — very excellent creatures, but exceedingly 
eager after novelty, as our sex generally are — 



OF SIBERIA. 161 

seeing in what direction we were walking, being 
' desirous either of making our acquaintance, or 
getting a good view of us, foflowed us in a 
body. Absolutely running along, they soon 
overtook us, and though we were perfect stran- 
gers to all, covered us with kisses. They were 
full of commiseration, too, for our solitude, 
and promised to do all in their power to amuse 
us during our stay amongst them, and in proof 
of the interest they took in us, overwhelmed 
us with questions on our affairs. 

Having passed through the double ordeal 
of an attack from the mosquitoes and the young 
women, and being persuaded that to run the 
risk of such encounters in an open field would 
be anything but agreeable, we beat a retreat, 
determined to intrench ourselves within the 
walls of our own domicile, which we at length 
reached in safety. 

Not until we saw ourselves within our own 
threshold, did we begin to breathe with free- 
dom, rejoiced to escape both from the stings 
of the mosquitoes and the caresses of the 
Cossack women. We made a vow not to go 
out of doors until our winged assailants should 
have disappeared, when we might brave the fair 

VOL. I. M 



162 REVELATIONS 

Cossacks. Even the enjoyment of fresh air, 
however desirable and necessary, could not com- 
pensate for the trouble we had had in battling 
with the formidable insects ; and glad we were 
to be again at rest. 

But tliis day seemed to have been marked 
in black in the book of our horoscope. On 
looking round our rooms, where we had ex- 
pected to find retirement and comfort, the sole 
consolation we could command, we were amazed 
to observe a scene of complete disarrangement 
and disorder. 

Madame X had arrived from Tobolsk. 

We had happened, during our stay in that city, 
to become acquainted with her; and on the 
score of that acquaintance, though our inter- 
view had scarcely lasted a couple of hours, 
she had now paid us an uninvited visit. Our 
surprise may be conceived, when, on opening 
the door of our apartments, we saw a stranger 
in a man's dressing-gown and boots, with 
cropped hair, surmounted by a jockey-cap, 
sitting on the sofa, smoking a pipe. At the 
same time, our reception-room, the best we 
had, was crammed with boxes, large and small, 
with rifles, yatagans, smoking-pipes, tobacco 



OF SIBERIA. 163 

bags, and other specimens of man's and woman's 
chattels blended confusedly together. 

I was astounded at this spectacle, and at a 
loss to comprehend what could have happened. 

Madame X did not let me wait long for 

an explanation. She informed me that her 
mother and several sisters resided at Berezov, 
and she had come on a visit to them ; that on all 
such occasions when she arrived, she invariably 
used to lodge in our apartments ; and that, but 
shortly before she set out on her journey, she 
had sent word to our landlady, informing her 
of her intended visit. But although the rooms 
were occupied by us, she added, there was no 
reason why she should change her plan, being 
sure that there was room enough for her and 
for ourselves, and that it would be even more 
pleasant for both parties to lodge together. 

I was confounded at the boldness, and still 
more at the nonchalance with which this pro- 
position was made, and must confess that I 
quite lost my presence of mind. I was uncer- 
tain whether I should consider her as my guest, 
or as a fellow-lodger, not clearly comprehending, 
in fact, in which light she regarded herself. 

M 2 



1 64 REVELATIONS 

But Madame X , who had no idea of 

any such thing, and to whom all consideration 
appeared superfluous, only asked: "Which of 
the rooms are you going to give me ?" 

" If I am to judge by the language in which 
you have addressed us," I replied, " I suppose 
you mean to be considered as our guest ; and as 
you have already made choice of the room, 
which appeared to be the most suitable to you, 
we, of course, must allow you, from the respect 
we bear to the laws of hospitality, to keep it. 
We place it, then, at your service." 

This room being the largest of the three, all 
our efforts were directed to keep it in a tidy, 
and even ornamental condition ; and hitherto 
it had served us both as a sitting-room and a 
reception-room- In an apartment beyond, which 
was smaller, and approached by a glass door, 
we slept ; and a third, and still a smaller room, 
was appropriated as a store. 

Flattering myself with the hope that Madame 

X 's courtesy would not allow us to remain 

long in such a straitened dwelling, and that her 
stay would be of but short duration, I resolved 
to bear with her patiently. Meanwhile, how- 



OF SIBERIA. 165 

ever, we were doomed to part with our greatest 
comfort at Berezov — that of being alone in our 
domestic retreat. We had a room less, and a 
companion too many, besides Madame X — r— 's 
pet goose, her constant companion, from which 
she could never part, and which she was in 
the habit of caressing, as others do lap-dogs. 
It is true, the silly animal did not bark, but it 
made the house resound with its incessant 
cackling. 

Madame X was a native of Siberia, a 

genuine Siberian breed, and distinguished by 
great originality. She dressed in man's attire 
and fired the pistol, went hunting, and kept 
a collection of arms. She treated all the forms 
and usages of society with contempt, spumed 
them as shackles imposed on free-will, fetters on 
the mind ; and considered herself superior to the 
rest of her sex, in so far, as she differed from 
them by the boldness of her conduct, and the 
singularity of her dress and manners. She par- 
ticularly relished the society of the exiles, and 
lived much with them. These, well knowing the 
peculiarities of her character, and being amused 
with them, instead of restraining her, as they 
ought, in her bizarre tastes and vagaries, 



166 REVELATIONS 

admired her independence of mind, her freedom 
from restraint, and her strange habits. From 
self-love and female vanity, she became as eman- 
cipated a woman as could well be imagined, 
and almost maddened her poor husband, who, 
in spite of her eccentricities, loved her des- 
perately. 

On the score of this very frame of mind, 

Madame X imagined she was best suited to 

be a natural companion and friend of ours. Her 
heart was not bad : of that we were assured ; 
and she felt sympathy with our fate. But as 
she had never been a mother, and had not the 
least conception of what family ties are, she 
would hardly have guessed whence most of the 
sorrows of the heart sprang. Of all the evils 
which in our situation of exiles we had to suffer, 
she considered solitude to be the greatest and 
the only one. All ties which were torn asunder 
could, in her opinion, be replaced by others ; 
and she was persuaded that, if she could only 
make us laugh or otherwise amuse us, she had 
done all to render our lives happy. 

Such was her conviction, and she took credit 
for performing a noble act of humanity by 
becoming our constant companion, and intro- 



I 



OF SIBERIA. 167 

ducing her acquaintances to us, unconscious how 
she was depriving us of our dearest possession ; 
and instead of making us thankful, as we other- 
wise should have been, for her good intentions, 
she caused us intolerable constraint and annoy- 
ance. We often wondered how long this state 
of things would last, and in what manner we 
should be extricated from the meshes she had 
woven aroimd us. But this was a problem 
which we could not fathom ! 



168 REVELATIONS 



CHAPTER Xi. 

Inland navigation — The Berezovian district — Population 
— Scantiness of cultivation — Manners and customs 
of the inhabitants — Berezovian women — Origin of 
the Berezovian Cossacks — Causes of their degenera- 
tion — Their military services and emoluments — Their 
mercantile spirit and traffic with the natives. 

Between Berezov and Tobolsk, whatever 
direction the traveller may wish to take, the 
only highway is the river. During the summer, 
as I have formerly observed, communication is 
carried on by vessels, and in winter, when the 
river is frozen over, by sledges. In fact, rivers 
are considered to be, the only practicable high- 
roads in this country, those by land being 
obstructed by immense forests and intersected 
by numberless streams, torrents and ravines. 



OF SIBERIA. 169 

with no bridges, and at best but ill-constructed 
ferries, rendering a journey extremely wearisome 
and tedious. 

About the middle of June, Madame Daubel 
arrived at Berezov, and brought with her a 
Polish maid-servant, whom Count Morchocki 
had been kind enough to procure for us. Such 
servants can easily be got at Tobolsk, from 
amongst the transported convicts, but it is 
difficult to get a good one. However, we re- 
solved to give our Franciska a fair trial ; though 
her eyes had a very sly and sharp expression. 

Berezov is the central point of the district of 
that name, a province so extensive that were it 
peopled in any proportion to its size it might be 
divided into several powerful nations. Some 
portions of the frontier are considered to be a 
distance of three thousand versts from Berezov. 
The district is bounded by the government of 
Yenisey in the east, that of Tobolsk in the 
south, by the Uralian Mountains and the 
government of Wologda in the west, and by the 
Arctic Ocean in the north. In the whole of 
this extensive territory, according to the last 
census, there are not more than fifteen thousand 
inhabitants. It is, however, not easy to vouch 



1 70 REVELATIONS 

for the accuracy of the census ; the tribes of the 
Ostiaks and the Samoiedes leading a nomade 
life, and therefore baffling all attempts at regis- 
tration. 

Even the country on the banks of the larger 
rivers, on which alone human settlements are 
found, presented to our sight a terrific wilder- 
ness. Throughout the district there is not the 
least trace of cultivation. At Berezov small 
patches of ground are planted with turnips, 
radishes, and some cabbages ; the latter, on 
account of the extreme shortness of the sum- 
mer, growing only into leaves, and never attain- 
ing a heart. These cabbage-leaves are chopped 
small,' as are also the leaves of turnips and 
radishes, and put together into casks, where they 
are kept until, from fermentation, they turn sour. 
From this preparation a dish is made called 
barshtch, which was not at all to my taste. 

Potatoes I thought might, if introduced, grow 
well here, and be of great use to the inhabitants, 
though, owing to early frost they could never 
grow large. A few have been tried, but only 
to the extent of from ten to twenty potatoes, 
and these more as objects of curiosity than for 
use. Any one who should attempt planting 



OF SIBERIA. 171 

more, or possess a whole bed of the esculent, 
would appear, in the eyes of his neighbours, an 
extraordinary speculator. 

On the whole, indeed, the Berezovians, as I 
could observe, did not favour this plant. 
Being accustomed to animal food, chiefly game, 
easy of digestion and easily obtained, no 
wonder that they eschew all such simple edibles, 
particularly as their cultivation requires much 
care and labour, and the fruit yields, after aU, 
but little nourishment. 

Madame X , our fellow-lodger — ^for we 

were still at a loss whether to consider her in 
the character of a guest or a resident — seldom 
left us alone, though her mother, brothers, and 
several married sisters, resided in the town. 
However, she proved to be less troublesome 
than we had anticipated after an intrusion so 
unceremonious. She certainly talked a great 
deal too much, but she was quite indifferent as 
to whether we listened, nor was she offended 
when no answer was returned to her questions. 
Often, when intent on our work, we sat in 
profound silence, she continued her chattering, 
and was for hours the only speaker, and I may 
add, the only auditor. There were moments. 



172 REVELATIONS 

however, in which she caught our attention — 
for she possessed a vast deal of mother-wit — 
and we heard from her a number of amusing 
anecdotes of persons, whose characters she often 
admirably described. It is true that we were, 
to a great extent, losers by her inroad on our 
freedom and solitude, than which, in our situa- 
tion, nothing could be more precious. If 
anything could compensate us for this restraint, 
the accounts she gave of the manners, charac- 
ters, and opinions peculiar to the people, 
amongst whom fate had thrown us, certainly 
made up for it, as, but for her, we should have 
required many years to have become, in any 
degree, conversant with the ideas current in 
such a wild country, or to have understood the 
real condition of the inhabitants. 

Nevertheless, Madame X 's goose ceased 

not to be a great annoyance to me. It was a real 
plague in the house. No sooner did it awake 
from its sleep, which it commonly did between 
two and three o'clock in the morning, than 
it began its disagreeable cackling, rendering 
sleep on our part impossible. Nor could 
we bring ourselves to the custom of indemni- 
fying ourselves for this loss of our night's 



OF SIBERIA. 173 

rest, as Madame X was wont to do, by 

a nap after dinner. 

Throughout Siberia the custom of the so- 
called siesta, in the afternoon, is as universal as 
sleep at night in European countries. In all 
houses the window-shutters are closed, and the 
people go regularly to bed for several hours. 
During this interval no visits are made, nor any 
business transacted. 

At Tobolsk, at these siesta hours, the shops 
are shut throughout the town. Business 
and amusements are, as a consequence, pro- 
tracted far into the night. Playing at cards is 
a favourite amusement, and commonly all 
leisure hours in Siberia are spent in gambling. 

I had to thank Madame X for a few 

acquaintances. In my round of calls with her 
I found more beauties among the women than 
I anticipated ; and what surprised me most, was, 
that among them were many brunettes, with jet 
black eyes. Fair hair and light blue eyes are 
admitted to be the exceptional type of the Rus- 
sian race ; and I am thus led to conclude that 
the dark complexion, both in men and women, 
denotes descent from the Cossacks of the Black 
Sea, who, accompanying Yermak, their chief, 



1 74 REVELATIONS 

on his excursion into Siberia, settled in the 
country, and remained a distinct race. 

My conjecture seemed to tally with the ac- 
count the Cossacks gave of themselves. One 
portion of them maintained that they sprang 
from the companions of Yermak, who, after his 
conquest of Siberia, had left them here as 
settlers. They principally consisted of volun- 
teers from the Dnieper and the Don, and from 
Lithuania ; some actuated by the hope of im- 
proving their condition, and others by the love 
of adventure. Another portion of them asserted 
that they were, at a later period, added as auxi- 
liaries to the former, by the celebrated mer- 
chants StrogonofFs, from their villages beyond 
the Ural, in order to keep the conquered country 
in subjection. The latter, as to their external 
appearance, evidently bear more affinity to the 
common Russian type, and in many character- 
istics much differ from the others. 

The generality of the modern Cossacks of 
this place are a degenerated race, preserving none 
of the spirit, courage, and boldness of their 
valorous ancestors. The constant peace and 
security which they enjoy, has contributed to 
extinguish among this people all warlike and 



OF SIBERIA. 175 

even manly qualities. Becoming sluggards, they 
have merely turned merchants and barterers. 
They languish after their feather beds, and are 
ready to sacrifice everything for comfort. I saw 
yoimg men of twenty years cry like babies, when 
they happened not to get their tea at the usual 
hour. 

The Cossacks of Berezov, are subject to the 
laws common to the rest of the Cossacks in the 
Russian empire. Every male of that race is 
bound to serve in the army, from his seven- 
teenth year to an advanced period of life. Even 
old age does not exempt any one from this 
servitude, unless his utter incapacity is attested 
by the proper authorities. The military duty, 
however, is usually not very burthensome, and 
rarely calls them far from home. Keeping 
sentry at a few government offices at Berezov, 
and service on the general staff of Tobolsk, 
which a few are obliged to perform annually, by 
rotation, comprise the whole routine. As a 
compensation, they are exempt from payment 
of taxes, and receive from the government a 
certain quantity of flour and barley for sub- 
sistence. 

Of this class of Cossacks, some get promoted 



176 REVELATIONS 

to the rank of officers, which, according to the 
Russian law, confers nobility on the persons 
possessing it, though the distinction is in no 
case hereditary. A colonel's son, therefore, is 
nothing more than a common Cossack, and if 
. ambitious of promotion, he is obliged to gain it 
by his own efforts. Formerly the Cossacks 
wefe at liberty to enter the civil service, but they 
do not now possess this privilege. 

In their character of citizens, the Cossacks of 
Berezov might in many respects be classed with 
the Jews of my own country. They are traf- 
fickers, but not producers ; their occupation is 
merely trading. Sometimes they go fishing, 
but never engage in woodcraft or hunting. 
The usual articles of commerce, as well as all 
the necessaries of life, with fish and game, 
can only be obtained from the Ostiaks. The 
common daily household business is likewise 
done by people hired from amidst that tribe. 

The great fishing season commences in the 
month of June, and lasts till the latter end of 

• 

August, thus occupying the whole summer. A 
number of vessels sail from Berezov, for the 
fisheries on the Oby Seas, taking away the whole 
of the well-to-do population, and most of the 



OF SIBERIA. 177 

poorer class. But even on their arrival at the 
fisheries, the Berezovians pass their time, not 
so much in fishing, but in the pursuit of traffic, 
according to their usual custom. Though their 
vessels are provided with nets and all the fish- 
ing appurtenances, they are for the most part 
manned by Ostiaks, and the fish they catch 
compose the least part of their cargoes ; most 
of it, in fact, is obtained from the Ostiak and 
Samoiede fishermen. These nomade tribes, 
knowing the season at which the Russian fishing 
vessels arrive on the coast, come in their barges 
from all quarters, and barter their fish with the 
Russians for other commodities. 

The Ostiaks are as yet unacquainted with the 
use of money. Skins of animals and fur are 
the customary curculating media, and all agree- 
ments in bargains and trade are referred to that 
standard. A white squirrel skin {bielka) repre- 
sents the value of twenty assignat kopeks ; an 
ermine, forty kopeks ; a skin called piesak bialy 
(literally, white dog), three assignat rubles; and 
a like rate extends fi-om the precious sables 
down to the commonest sorts of fur. In 
changing these commodities for Russian ar- 
ticles, the Ostiak never makes his agreement 

VOL. I. N 



178 REVELATIONS 

for such or such a sum of money, but for so 
many of the above-named kinds of fur, every 
one of which has its fixed price. 

The inhabitants of Berezov are, upon the 
whole, extremely well off, and even might be 
called wealthy. With regard to the first neces- 
saries of life, they need only stretch out their 
hand to have them, Providence having prepared 
for their use a plentiful supply, and on every 
side are forests full of game, and rivers fiill of 
fish. It is required only to cast a net, or to set 
a seine, to procure abimdance of food for several 
days. 

The river Oby abounds in excellent fish, in- 
cluding sturgeon, sterlet, salmon, pike, nuksuni, 
selga, nelma, mietusi and a variety of other 
species. The fish nelma and sterlet are more 
delicate than the sturgeon, and superior to it in 
flavour. The fish mietus is caught as large as 
a pound in weight, but they are inferior in deli- 
cacy. The selga is a small fish, but rich and 
delicious. The pike is least esteemed, and con- 
sidered but poor eating. The Russians scarcely 
touch it, but throw it as food for dogs, foxes, 
and their Ostiak servants. 

Various kinds of birds and wild fowl yield 



OF SIBERIA. 179 

also ample supplies of food. Those found in 
greatest abundance are wild geese, wild ducks, 
woodcocks, blackcocks, partridges, and water- 
fowl. There are also a variety of snipes, but 
though found in the swamps in great number, 
nobody cares to look for them, as, in the opinion 
of the inhabitants, they are too small to repay 
the trouble of shooting them, nor are they so 
easily reached as in hunting larger game. 

Hares exist in great numbers, but nobody 
himts them. The Russians have a religious 
aversion to eating them, as unclean ; and their 
skins are so cheap that they are considered not 
worth transporting to Tobolsk, the place where 
they are tanned. The Ostiaks, on the other 
hand, reject no sort of food, but eat whatever 
can be swallowed and digested. In this respect 
they are not a whit more fastidious than dogs. 
They eat foxes, crows, bears, and even their 
entrails ; all meat, fresh or tainted, and stinking 
fish. They eat their food both raw and boiled, 
but chiefly in a raw state. 

The district of Berezov abounds in water. 
Apart from the stupendous river Oby, at a dis- 
tance of about one verst from the town, there 
exist several other rivers, as the Waygulka, the 

N 2 



1 80 REVELATIONS 

Little and the Great Ostiatska, the Kazienna, 
the Horodynka and a number of minor streams 
not yet designated by any names. All these 
rivers fall into the Soswa, in the vicinity of the 
town, with the exception of the Horodynka, and 
each is large and deep enough to bear vessels of 
any size. 



'^: 



OF SIBERIA. 181 



CHAPTER XII. 

My child — Visits of guests — The Nizegorodtyow family 
— Parental authority — Ladies' dresses — Costumes 
peculiar to each class — Evils arising from change 
of class. 

The 22nd of June is memorable to me as 
the birthday of my eldest daughter, Paulina. 
The first anniversary of this festival that I 
passed at Berezov, on awakening in the morn- 
ing I fervently prayed to God for her; and 
whilst my thoughts and feelings were thus 
hovering over my beloved child, my heart was 
ready to burst, and scalding tears gushed from 
my eyes. But mournful as the subject was, I 
could not tear my soul away from reminiscences 
which, though so harrowing, were so dear. 



r. 



182 REVELATIONS 

Recalling to my mind the whole of my 
daughter's life, 1 in vain tried to explain to 
myself why my Paulina, brought up as she had 
been under the eyes of affectionate parents, and 
amidst a circle of relatives whom she tenderly 
loved, had far outstript the joyous age of youth, 
with all its buoyant freedom, and its playful 
gaiety, without in the least enjoying it ; though 
such incidents of the past, even at the most 
advanced age, are wont to recur fondly to our 
memories, ever shedding a glowing halo over 
our existence. Although she had scarcely com- 
pleted ten years, yet she was, I might almost 
say, mature both in mind and heart. AH her 
thoughts were grave, her sentiments fixed and 
deep, her judgment clear and penetrating, so 
that amidst the most perplexing circumstances 
she was never at a loss to discriminate at the 
first glance between truth and falsehood. Oflen 
have I had occasion to put her childish imder- 
standing to the test by consulting her on most 
delicate questions, and of a nature most intricate 
and difficult. I found her solve them all with a 
penetration and correctness I could not but 
admire. Hardly emerged from childhood, with 
a delicate frame of body, and placed amidst 



OF SIBERIA. 183 

most trying circumstances, God constituted her 
the sole guardian, with duties of a second 
mother, to a bereaved family. My Paulina, I 
am confident, did not shrink from or falter in 
this great calling ; she fulfilled it at her own great 
cost, but without even reckoning it a sacrifice. I 
cannot but think that God, having so prematurely 
marked her with the emblem of the cross, has 
thereby destined my child for that important 
mission which she had in our present trials to 
accomplish. 

Full of such reflections, I gave them utterance 
in prayer, exclaiming : " O, merciful God ! if 
Thou dost take into account the emotions of a 
mother's heart ; if our sufferings, our sorrows, 
our tears, and our prayers are beheld with com- 
miseration by Thee ; if innocence and sacrifices 
have a claim on Thy protection, vouchsafe to 
listen to the mother's fervent supplication for 
the happiness of her child." 

Being so deeply moved, I avoided all company. 
At such a moment the presence of any one 
would have been most unwelcome, an unholy 
intrusion upon me. 

Contrary to my usual custom, I laid long in 
bed, pretending to sleep. At last, hearing that 



1 84 REVELATIONS 

our fellow-lodger had dressed and gone out, I 
got up to follow my daily occupations. 

I had intended to spend the whole 'day 
by myself, in complete seclusion, communing 
only with my thoughts and feelings. This 
purpose, however, was completely frustrated ; 
for, all my acquaintances at Bere^ov, as if they 
had mutually agreed upon an invasion, which 
perhaps was the case, came in the afternoon 
to visit me. 

First of all appeared Madame Nizegorodtydw, 
the rich old dowager, whose house I have 
already described. She was the mother of five 
sons and five daughters, the latter of whom 
were all bestowed in marriage on the principal 
government oflicials of the place. This lady 
was soon followed by her daughters and sons-in- 
law, and by her sons and daughters-in-law, all 
heads of diflferent and most respected families. 
It was quite a levee ; and I was obliged to exert 
myself to do the honours of the house. 

Madame Nizegorodtyow was about fifty ; and 
when young she must have been very hand- 
some. Even at this time she was very active, 
and in her conversation evinced a sound, dear 
judgment in everything. She was the acknow- 



OF SIBERIA. 185 

ledged head of her house, even in its mercantile 
transactions, in the management of which she 
was assisted by her sons. These young men 
were far from being emancipated from her 
control, though the property their father had 
left was estimated at one million rubles. 

I always derived much pleasure from my 
intercourse with this old lady, for I found it 
unincumbered by any conventional forms, and 
her conversation was simple and sincere, and 
characterized by singular frankness. 

In giving me one day the story of her life, 
she said that she was married at fifteen. When 
brought to her mother-in-law's house, she was 
subjected to a most severe noviciate, was obliged 
to obey her implicitly, and do the work of the 
humblest menial. Immediately after her wedding, 
her mother-in-law sent her, when the cold was 
40^ below the freezing-point, to the river to 
wash the linen ; and though at her own mother's 
house she had never been required to do any 
work, and was afraid that, in complying with 
such a demand, she might lose some of her 
limbs, she obeyed without a murmur and 
happily sustained no injury. 

After such perfect obedience to her mother- 



186 REVELATIONS 

in-law, and after undergoing this severe discipline 
during several years, Madame Nizegorodtyow 
succeeded at last in gaining the old lady's 
favour ; and, from her reasoning, I could po-- 
ceive that she was firmly convinced that a 
patriarchal arbitrary power was the only effectual 
means for governing a family. Having been 
trained in that rigid way from her childhood, 
she had learnt not to abuse her power as her 
mother-in-law had done ; but she knew how to 
impress all the members of her house with 
such a respect for her authority, that her 
daughters-in-law, though they belonged to 
wealthy families and were mothers of several 
children, used to show so much deference to 
her will, that on going out on their visits they 
would send messages to ask her what dress they 
should put on. But let it be understood that, 
in relating these particulars, I am far from 
wishing to represent them to the reader as facts 
of great weight, but merely as pictures of the 
degree of civilisation existing in this locality. 

The whole toilette of my lady-visitors, con- 
sidering this was such an out-of-the-world place, 
was uncommonly costly. Their dresses consisted 
of velvet and rich silk ; and all the ornaments 



OF SIBERIA. 187 

worn were precious stones. Every one of the 
ladies, however, wore those peculiar to her 
respective class. The wives of the government 
employes^ as belonging to the class of blahorodny, 
(nobles), wore caps on their heads ; while those 
of merchants, though the richest, had only silk 
handkerchiefs for their head-dress. These were 
of various colours, and were tied in a peculiar 
fashion on the head. 

The inhabitants of Berezov are great sticklers 
for the distinctive marks of the diflferent classes ; 
and what surprised me most was, that the 
inferior orders, as they are commonly termed, 
betrayed no desire, as in other parts, to infringe 
upon the privileged costumes belonging to the 
classes above them. On the contrary, they 
constituted themselves guardians of such dis- 
tinctions, decrying any who attempted to trans- 
gress these arbitrary lines of demarkation. 

Madame X set herself to oppose this 

feeling. The daughter of a merchant and a 
merchant's wife, she had, on the death of her 
husband, devoted aU her energies to the accom- 
plishment of female emancipation; and on 
coming from Tobolsk to her family at Berezov, 
in order to render her appearance as striking 



188 REVELATIONS 

as possible, she had brought with her all sorts 
of caps and bonnets. A rumour of the com- 
modities thus imported having got abroad, the 
citizens were excited to such a degree at the 
idea of any. attempt at innovation, that they let 
her know immediately that should she dare to 
appear in public, dressed in her new apparel, she 
would be hooted ; and that even at church the 
sanctity of the place should not screen her from 
their indignation ; nor would they scruple to tear 
the odious gear from her head and trample it 
under foot. Having received this timely warning, 

Madame X deemed it more prudent to pack 

up her elegant caps and bonnets, and without 
giving them even one day's airing at Berezov, 
return them to her milliner at Tobolsk. 

I highly approved of this strong attachment 
of the Berezovians to the station in which 
Providence had placed them. For my part, I 
find such attachment more consistent with the 
dignity of man; for in striving to exalt our- 
selves higher and higher, we do but betray 
contempt for the rank we are actually occupy- 
ing, and acknowledge the one above us to be 
more respectable. For, how can it be otherwise 
than that the classes which are thus deemed to 



OF SIBERIA. 189 

be superior to our own, should despise us, as 
their inferiors, if we ourselves hold our position 
in such low estimation, and daily attest, by 
seeking to rise out of our own sphere, how much 
we admire and envy them ? 

I entertained my guests as well as I could, 

and Madame X was very useful on the 

occasion. Knowing the tastes of the company, 
she arranged two tables for the boston, and 
distributed packs of cards ; and our guests 
seemed perfectly gratified. Those who were 
too young, or not clever enough to play boston, 
amused themselves at the kurka (hen), another 
game of cards, more easy and simple. 

The inhabitants of Berezov, both men and 
women, are passionately fond of cards, and the 
custom is often very convenient ; more especially 
when the company have nothing to talk about ; 
a game at cards then well supplies the place of 
conversation. 



1 90 REVELATIONS 



CHAPTER XIII. 

Failing health — A Siberian merchant — Attempts at 
agriculture — Hostility to improvement — System of 
trade — Articles of barter — Character of the natives — 
The culinary art — Young bride's first dinner-party — 
Female education — Facility 'of marriage — Landed 
property — Prospects of Berezov. 



One fine morning in June, Madame X- 



went out shooting, and brought home a snipe 
which she said she had herself killed. Her 
constant presence was by this time not so trying 
as at first, though still tiresome enough. Soli- 
tude might have proved a solace to me in the 
seclusion in which I was placed, yet I could 
not but reproach myself for grudging our 
visitor a comer of our chamber. My health 
began to fail ; and as my feet swelled, I appre- 



OF SIBERIA. 191 

hended dropsy, a complaint which is hereditary 
in my family. Yet I thought placidly of my 
end, as, being far from my dear children, they 
would be spared the misery of witnessing my 
sufferings. 

After dinner, Madame X , recruited 

from the fatigue of her shooting excursion, 
proposed that we should call on Madame 
Nizegorodtyow. 

Accordingly, we all three went, and met with 
a most cordial welcome. Various refreshments, 
including preserves, dry fruit, and cedar-nuts, 
were brought for us ; followed by coffee and 
tea, with delicious home-made cakes, such as 
could only be had in the affluent house of the 
Nizegorodtyows. The old dowager's husband 
had been a great merchant, and, as far as I 
could judge, a very enterprising man, and a 
friend to improvement. He yearly made 
journeys to the famous fairs at Irbit and Nijni 
Novogorod ; and there he had a good oppor- 
tunity of becoming acquainted with all the 
advantages of modem industry and civilization. 
His object is said to have been to ameliorate the 
condition of his native town, and to effect such 
changes as seemed compatible with its climate. 



192 REVELATIONS 

Possessing abundant means, and what is more, 
a strong will, he attempted even to introduce 
agriculture, and for that purpose he procured 
the necessary implements, and brought, at his 
own expense, people conversant with the tillage 
of land to commence operations. Up to this 
time, a field in the neighbourhood of Berezov is 
shown, cleared of forest, where he used to sow 
his crops. 

He was not a man to be at all discouraged 
by failures, which for the first few years were 
almost unavoidable; but during some of the 
hotter summers he was enabled to rear crops, 
samples of which he found it worth while to 
send to St. Petersburg for the consideration of 
the government* In the course of his usefiil 

* This attempt to introduce agriculture at Berezov, 
640 northern latitude, says a great deal for the enter- 
prising spirit of the Berezovian merchant, although it 
completely failed. Owing to excessive cold, agriculture 
in Western Siberia ceases at 60° latitude ; the cold 
region embracing the territories between 67° and 57**. 
Within this circle, various shrubs bear berries, and 
garden vegetables are cultivated with success in the 
more southern parts ; but com, which in Europe yields 
a not unprofitable harvest in 65° north latitude, can- 
not be cultivated with profit in Siberia farther north 



OF SIBERIA. 193 

enterprises, however, he experienced the greatest 
impediments from the inhabitants themselves, 
whom he found opposed to what they styled 
innovations ; so much so, that they deliberately 
destroyed his crops, and when, to prevent his 
field from being ruined, the worthy merchant 
caused it to be enclosed with a strong wooden 
fence, he had the mortification to see the fence 
reduced to ashes by the hand of an incendiary. 
I was quite at a loss how to account for such 
hostility to the introduction of improvement 
from which the inhabitants were to derive all 
the benefit, until our hostess informed me that 

than 55^ and in Kamtschatka, than 5 P. Below the 
latter degree, that is in the southern parts of Siberia, 
where the climate resembles that of Sweden and 
Northern Russia, corn yields a good harvest ; but even 
that part is too thinly inhabited to boast of any pro- 
gress in agriculture as a science. The intensity of cold 
is not, however, by any means equal in the same 
latitudes throughout the whole continent, the severity 
of the climate increasing considerably with the exten- 
sion of the territories eastward. This is an incon- 
testable fact, but as yet the causes of the phenomenon 
have not been ascertained, and it is uncertain whether it 
be ascribable to a general law or to local circum- 
stances. 

VOL. I. O 



194 REVELATIONS 

a report got afloat, from the unaccountable 
ignorance of some person, that the success of 
agriculture would bring ruin on the people, and 
that they would all be turned into agricultural 
serfs, and forced to till the groimd. 

To what a degree agriculture, by care and 
perseverance, could be carried in such a locality 
as Berezov, it is difficult to say. The long 
illness and subsequent death of its first pro- 
moter had put an end to the whole project. 
Previous to his death, the active and enlightened 
merchant was afflicted with lunacy. His widow 
attributed this solely to the annoyances he had 
"i met with from a portion of the inhabitants. 

However this might be, we saw abundant evi- 
dence, wherever we turned our eyes, of Nizego- 
tI^ >^ rodtyow's appreciation of European industry and 
advancement. In his house especially, every- 
thing bore testimony to it. The structure itself 
was commodious, displaying architectural pro- 
portions, and a great degree of taste. All the 
furniture, plate, porcelain, and ornaments, were 
European ; and what was still more extraordi- 
nary, there was a chimney-grate in the house, 
though it had been blocked up after the death 
of its master. There were also a bDliard-table 



OF SIBERIA. 195 

a cabinet containing an organ, and a number of 
pictures, which all sufficiently proved a love for 
the elegancies as well as necessaries of life. 

Upon the whole, I observed there was no 
lack of the world's goods at Berezov, except 
among the Ostiaks, and no appearance of squalid 
poverty in the dwellings of the poorer class, as 
is too frequently the case amongst the lower 
orders elsewhere. In the houses even of the 
poorest, the table is furnished with good bread, 
fish, or meat ; and on the days of festivals with 
meat puddings and fish. Their daily drink is 
tea, though of inferior quality, and they treat 
their guests with sweetmeats. Their linen is 
fine and white, not, as in other parts of Russia, 
striped and coloured. They regularly have two, 
if not more, new suits of clothes ; one of good 
cloth, and one of fine stuff, lined with fur of 
fox or squirrel, and with sable collars. 

The principal source of wealth of the Bere- 
zovians is derived from traffic in fur and fish 
with the Ostiaks. Any active and cunning 
speculator, with a capital of one hundred to two 
hundred assignat rubles at the first outset, is 
enabled in a few years to become a rich mer- 

o 2 



196 REVELATIONS 

chant, the profits from the barter carried on 
with the Ostiaks being enormous. 

The Ostiaks being totally ignorant of money, 
and still more of the rate of exchange, readily 
take in exchange for their own articles any 
commodities which they want, or which the 
Russian merchants can supply them with. The 
latter, however, are in the habit of fixing the 
value of their own articles at their own 
price, before they exchange them for those 
brought by the Ostiaks to market. According 
to the old customary standard, a pud (forty 
pounds English) of rye-flour used to represent 
the value of one skin of a white piesdk* and at 
that rate they are usually counted when ex- 
changed against each other. But one pud of rye- 
flour at the market at Tobolsk does not post more 

• 

than fifty assignat kopeks, and frequently it can 
be had for half that sum. The cost of transport 
from Tobolsk down to Berezov is not more than 
fifteen assignat kopeks per pud, as a number of 
vessels are yearly dispatched empty from that 

* The piesak is a rein- deer cub, under one year old. 
The skins are called pieshki, and are highly prized in the 
Russian fur market. 



OF SIBERIA. 197 

town to the fisheries on the Oby Sea, and their 
owners are always anxious to take on board any 
cargo, even at a most trifling rate. The whole 
expense for a pud of flour may thus be estimated 
at from thirty to seventy assignat kopeks; 
whereas a skin of a white piesak, which is 
bought for that same pud of flour from the 
Ostiak, is sold by the trader to a wholesale 
merchant of fiirs at Berezov, at the enormous 
price of three silver rubles.* 

The wholesale fur merchants, of whom there 
are only three at Berezov, are in the habit of 
going with such furs to the fairs of Irbit or Nijni 
Novogorod, and after exchanging them there 
against articles of European manufactures, im- 
port the latter into Siberia for sale, or more 
properly barter .f 

* One hundred kopeks (copper coin) make one silver 
ruble (about three shillings and sevenpence English). 
But the skins being bought, from the Ostiaks and other 
Siberian tribes, with assignat currency, in which one 
hundred kopeks are equivalent to about tenpence, or 
a French franc, the immense profit derived by the 
Russian fur dealers from such a barter becomes too 
obvious to need any further comment. 

t Many other kinds of Siberian fur are exported to 
the same fairs, viz., squirrels, martin or sable, mink, 



198 REVELATIONS 

The articles in request by the Ostiaks and 
the Samoiedes, and with which the Russian 
traders supply them, are flour, knives, axes, iron 
nails, tobacco, various coloured glass beads, small 
plates of brass, or other shining metals for 
ornament, calicos, cloth, or the like stuffs in 
figured patterns, and of gaudy colour. On 
these commodities the Russian traders put 
what prices they like. Wherever they go, they 
are provided with a quantity of them, and they 

chinchella, kolinski^ ermine, beaver, wolf and bear skins ; 
and foxes, red, cross, silvery, black, white, grey. Part 
is disposed of for gentlemen's and ladies' wear in Russia, 
but a great quantity is exported to China, Persia, 
Turkey, Leipzic, and London. The trade, however, 
owing to the knavish practices of the Russian traders, 
has of late years much fallen off in the English market ; 
and the Russian fur is so much dearer than that which 
can be procured from the Hudson Bay Company in 
North America, that Russians themselves prefer to 
buy fur, if they can, at the London market. This 
is so much the case, that the superb Russian pelisse, of 
the skin of the Arctic fox, shown at the late Exhibition 
in London, which was so fine and soft, that it seemed 
more like down than fur, and the value of which was 
set at ^3,600, might be had in London, as one of the 
principal fur merchants stated, for less than half the 
price, and of quite as good a quality. 



OF SIBERIA. 199 

are, in fact, equivalent to money elsewhere. 
Without such supplies, there would be an end 
to all trade in that part of the world. 

The profits from this barter are so great as 
to be incalculable ; and they have the advantage 
of being certain, as there is no competition. 

In order to secure success in trading with 
these nomade races, several things become in- 
dispensable ; namely, knowledge of their language, 
acquaintance with the usages and manners of 
the different tribes, with their periodical changes 
of residence, and, if possible, a personal acquaint- 
ance with the principal heads of their widely 
dispersed families. The entire commerce is 
founded solely on good faith. Each family of 
the nomade, whether Ostiak or Samoiede, is in 
the habit of dealing with only one merchant, 
and from him everything that is wanted, at all 
times, is taken on credit to the amount of so 
many skins. The good faith among these wild 
races is so great, and so deeply rooted, that a 
debtor will for no sum of money, however great, 
sell to another what he had once promised to 
his creditor. There may indeed occur cases in 
which on account of an unproductive season in 



20O REVELATIONS 

hunting, or the death of the debtor, or of his 
family, the creditor has not been paid, or the 
payment postponed to the ensuing year ; but, as 
long as any member of the family survives, and 
can take part in hunting and fishing, the creditor 
may be certain that at some period or other his 
debt will be faithfully discharged. 

Another cause of the prosperity of ^ the 
Berezovians is the simplicity of their manners ; 
and in this respect they seem to have solved 
more wisely than ourselves the question of 
social welfare. How often are our comforts 
our ease, and tranquillity sacrificed to vanity, to 
prejudice, and to fashion ? How many super- 
fluous servants "do we pay, not for convenience, 
but merely to keep our houses on a grand scale, 
corresponding to the station we believe ourselves 
to occupy in society, or the position in which 
we wish our neighbours to see us. Far from 
ministering to our comforts, this multitude of 
menials is the cause of the greatest discomfort 
and trouble to us. From sheer idleness, they are 
disposed to all sorts of mischief; and to keep 
them in any kind of order and subordination, 
we are compelled to augment, at a great expense, 



OF SIBERIA. 201 

the number of overseers over them ; and these, 
again, diminish our income, and frequently prove 
a new source of annoyance. 

These and the like expenses, owing to a 
much wiser appreciation of social comfort, are 
unknown at Berezov. The inhabitants are thtir 
own servants. No mistress of the house, be 
she ever so rich, or however high in rank, is 
ever ashamed of attending to the, kitchen and 
to the management of her household ; and is 
content, if, according to the extent of her house, 
she has one or two servants to aid her in the 
performance of her household duties. The 
culinary art constitutes the principal branch of 
education among the fair sex ; and far from 
blushing when detected in this employment, 
they pride themselves on their proficiency in it 
as the highest of female accomplishments. 

I am far from wishing to offend any of my 
sex by these remarks. We are all ready to 
concede precedence to acquirements which attract 
by their agreeableness ; but I beg to be permitted 
to say a few words in defence of those among 
us who are cooks. There is something in good 
motives by which the meanest art may be 
ennobled. Where is the thrifty housewife, and 



202 REVELATIONS 

where the mother, who in preparing dainty and 
wholesome dishes for the table, thinks only of 
her own enjoyment ? Is not the enjoyment, on 
the contrary, designed for her husband, for her 
children, or for the friends who happen to 
be partakers of it? And to achieve such 
results is the most gratifying reward she can 
receive. 

Looking therefore on the kitchen as a very 
important department of domestic life, the 
Berezovians have associated its mysteries with 
the most momentous epoch of woman's life — 
her early education. 

It is a receiv^ed custom that every young 
bride, on arriving at her husband's house, must 
invite guests to a dinner prepared by her own 
hands, and this repast is considered a test of 
the education she has received at her parents' 
house. Shame and disgrace are the consequence, 
should she be found deficient on such an occasion; 
and shame also to the parents who did not 
attend to that essential branch of her education. 
Whereas, her success in gratifying her guests is 
taken as a proof, not only of the young woman's 
own excellence, but also as no small recommen- 
dation of her whole family, among whom she 



OF SIBERIA. 203 

must have had so good an example and received 
such excellent instruction. 

Livery servants richly clad, and carriages or 
grooms, are not known at Berezov. Their 
absence, far from being a drawback on the 
pleasures of life, contributes to enhance them, 
and by not impoverishing families, enables them 
to live in affluence and ease. 

How many families may be found in our own 
country, which, had they but the courage to 
curtail their unnecessary expenditure — which, 
while keeping up a specious state and splendour, 
proves ruinous to their fortunes, without in the 
least ministering to comfort — would soon discover 
a new source of gratification of which they can 
now form no idea? Looking at the subject 
through the glasses of prejudice and habitual 
conventionalities, our sex would at first, indeed, 
be but little satisfied at the prospect of such an 
order of things. They would consider them- 
selves degraded by performing any household 
services, while in reality they would be gainers 
by the change. All we need is to get from our 
early childhood accustomed to domestic occupa- 
tions, and at the same time have our fancies 
freed from the impression that such drudgeries 



204 REVELATIONS 

were beneath ^us; there is no doubt that the 
duties which now appear so irksome, and even 
repulsive, would then prove quite the reverse, 
becoming, as they ultimately would, the source of 
a more lively interest to ourselves, than all the 
hankering after artificial amusements, of which 
the programme of a young lady's early education 
is chiefly made up. 

But this laudable custom produces another 
most salutary effect on the whole course of a 
woman's life. Men, in these parts, are not 
averse to matrimony, and women being generally 
esteemed, are much sought in marriage; as 
men are convinced that on taking a wife, she 
will really render herself useful, and that the 
management of the house and all domestic 
comforts will be cared for by her. The service 
of a hireling, such as would render a bachelor's 
life less irksome, cannot at aU be obtained here ; 
and the consequence is that, though daughters 
even of the richest parents do not bring their 
husbands any fortunes unless there is no male 
issue, an old maid is quite a rarity : at least, I 
never met one, with the exception of the infirm 
and the deformed. With the Berezovians, females 
are invaluable, and it is they who make their 



OF SIBERIA. 205 

choice of a husband, instead, as with us, of the 
husband choosing the wife. 

I have seen instances of poor girls, daughters 
of parents of the humblest class, refusing 
government functionaries of the higher class, 
when the man was found to be stained by vices ; 
and this was considered so natural that nobody 
wondered at it. With us, on the contrary, no 
sooner is a position in society offered, than a 
young, beautiful, and lovely female is thrust 
into the arms of a reprobate, be he ever so 
corrupt and brutalized; and very often by a 
compact secretly formed between the parents 
themselves, under the plausible, but wicked 
plea, that they are promoting her happiness. 

Apart from this, there is still another cir- 
cumstance materially contributing to the well- 
being of the inhabitants of this part of the 
world, namely, that they are not desirous of 
acquiring any landed property ; there being, in 
fact, no opportunity for the acquisition of such 
possession. In our country, on the contrary, 
every active and thrifty man, as soon as he has 
succeeded by his industry and good management 
in acquiring some capital, regularly lays it out in 
the purchase of land, to insure, as the phrase 



206 REVELATIONS 

goes, a competence for his children, which means 
a livelihood without the necessity of labour. By 
that plan, the worthy man is in the first instance 
losing at least one half of his life amid toil and 
anxieties before he is enabled to acquire such a 
property, while he commonly loses the other 
half in improving it; and thus dies without 
having derived any advantage for himself; and 
what is worse, leaves to his successors the 
means of living in idleness. Nothing of the 
kind is done in this locality, where the earth is 
considered the common property of all : and 
every one possessing some amount of capital 
turns it as often as he can in trade, at the same 
time enjoying all the advantages and comforts 
which his accumulating income can procure. 

Even avarice, a vice innate in some nations, 
has here less scope than in other places. Com- 
merce, as I have stated, is indeed followed by 
all ; but the amount of capital requisite is 
necessarily apportioned to the exceedingly small 
population. The only sources of wealth vouch- 
safed by Providence to the inhabitants, are fish 
and the skins of animals, and these articles are 
yearly disposed of at the fairs of Irbit or of 
Makariev ; but whatever amount of money 



OF SIBERIA. 207 

merchants may realise for them, they cannot 
import more European manufactures than is 
absolutely required for the consumption of the 
population. Consequently, the surplus of their 
capital cannot be employed for anything else 
than the comforts of life ; or, if anything be 
spared, it is laid out in the purchase of costly 
furniture, and expensive dresses or ornaments. 
All the comforts the inhabitants of Berezov 
enjoy, all their well-being, and even a degree of 
luxury and splendour which I saw in their 
houses, were solely owing to their exertions in 
commerce. Finally, I may add that the very 
facility with which competence can be obtained 
by industry, relieves the parents from any 
anxieties about the future lot of their children. 
Daughters, though without rich dowries, are 
sure of being married, and their husbands 
secure them subsistence : while sons need onlv 
moderately exert themselves to obtain affluence. 
As for the education of children, which in 
general entails so much expense in other coun- 
tries, and which, even when finished, fails to 
answer any purpose, and in most cases continues 
to lie a dead capital without being available in 
practical life, it does not in the least trouble 



208 REVELATIONS 

parents at Berezov. They can scarcely conceive 
what use there can be in filling the heads of 
children with so much learning, which they 
cannot turn to any account, and most of which 
they soon forget. They send their children to 
school, merely that they may learn to read and 
write, and so be competent to keep accounts 
with the Ostiaks. In acquiring this instruction, 
they put their parents to no expense, as it is 
imparted gratuitously at the Government School. 
By some even this degree of learning is deea)ed 
superfluous, as sums can be cast up just as 
well mechanically on their shtchoby ; and many 
therefore exempt their children from attending 
school. The rest of the education of the boys 
is practical; each accompanying his father in 
his business expeditions, and sharing his labour, 
as soon as his age enables him to engage in 
trade. 

As for girls, they learn from their mothers 
housekeeping, regularity, cleanliness, and cookery. 
If any one should combine with these attain- 
ments, proficiency of reading and of writing, 
it would be considered a great accomplishment, 
though it can be acquired by all young girls 
at the cheapest rate imaginable. 



OF SIBERIA. 209 

The inhabitants of Berezov have not yet 
any exact notion of what is called a fixed fee 
or salary, payable for personal services. If any 
female is found in the place proficient enough 
in reading, and she happens to be disengaged 
from other occupations at home, the mothers 
agree among each other to send their daughters 
to her for instruction. Stipulation for any 
remuneration by the teacher forms no part 
of the transaction ; but the mothers of the 
pupils, to evince their gratitude to her, are in 
the habit on the days of festivals, and on her 
own name's-day, of sending her presents, which, 
however, would, even in the course of the year, 
hardly amount in value to a few rubles. Eventu- 
ally, however, a permanent friendship is es- 
tablished between all the parties for mutual 
kindnesses and obligations, by which the in- 
structress is never a loser. 

Amidst such primitive manners, the life of 
the Berezovians passes on easily and agreeably, 
without any great anxieties for the future, and 
without heavy labour, but at the same time not 
in idleness. And in that blissful state they 
probably will continue, until the introduction of 
foreign manners shall have awakened around 

VOL. I. P 



2 1 REVELATIONS 

them imaginary wants. Then, perhaps, they 
will, when too late, sigh after what is termed 
among us the golden age of the past. 

At Berezov different classes are not separated 
from each other by insurmountable barriers. 
The Government employ^ live on a footing 
of perfect equality with merchants, citizens, and 
even Cossacks. They intermarry, and associate 
with all. Wealth alone constitutes some distinct 
sections ; the families of the rich naturally pre- 
ferring to associate with those who are rich ; 
while the poorer, on the other hand, seek the 
society of their equals in condition. As regards 
marriages, no distinction of class is observed ; 
and sons of the richest parents take wives, if 
it pleases them, from the daughters of the 
poorest. The whole population is in a most 
prosperous condition, and in consequejice the 
town of Berezov is every year increasing in 
new buildings. Improvements and domestic 
comforts are keeping pace with the augmenta- 
tion of wealth and means. Immense forests 
furnish abundance of materials for the construc- 
tion of edifices. In lime, mortar, and masons 
they are deficient, but these are supplied from 
Tobolsk. 



OF SIBERIA. 211 



CHAPTER XIV. 

St. Peter's festival — ^Waygulka pic-nics — Sudden cold — 
Traces of a road — Government magazines — An 
Ostiak encampment — Description of an Ostiak yourta 
— Smell peculiar to the Ostiaks — ^Their diet — Ostiak 
beggars. 

The 29 th of June was a great festival, the 
day of St. Peter, and the end of a fast of many 
weeks. For the first time since our arrival, we 
saw meat on our table. There is no slaughter- 
house in the whole town ; but prior to each great 
festival some of the richer citizens kill an ox in 
their house, and distribute the meat among their 
fnends and neighbours. At other festivals the 
latter do the same, and then the compliment is 
returned. The festive fare of this day com- 
menced with poultry, pie, and a dish of minced 
beef; such dishes being always symbolical of 
a grand /e/e. 

p 2 



2 1 2 REVELATIONS 

The weather having been cold, with heavy 
rain, and Josephine being indisposed, I stayed 
the whole day in doors. The public, however, 
nothing daunted by the inclemency of the 
weather, carried on their festivities according to 
usual and immemorial custom. 

On St. Peter's day it is customary for the 
Berezovians to make an excursion on the banks 
of the river Waygulka, and there to assemble on 
an extensive meadow in front of the govern- 
ment magazines. Parties of gaily attired men, 
women, and children, press forward from town 
in this direction, and on arriving at the spot, 
congregate in merry circles and in different 
groups. Eatables and dainties are brought 
from home by thrifty housewives, and the exer- 
cise of mutual civilities and hospitalities on the 
occasion becomes universal. The poorer classes 
regale themselves with scantier fare of cedar 
nuts. The meadow is the only public promenade 
in the environs, and is visited only once in the 
year. In general the Berezovians are not fond 
of promenades; the mosquitoes, as I believe, 
destroying all enjoyment. The good people, 
too, prefer boating to land excursions. 

The cold was so piercing on this day, that 1 



OF SIBERIA. 213 

was obliged to put on warmer clothing. It 
gradually grew more intense, blowing from the 
Frozen Ocean, and continuing in this quarter 
for several days. Mosquitoes disappeared ; and 
the earth, which had been soaked with rain, 
again became dry. Still I resolved to take a 
walk in order to see something of the neigh- 
bourhood. Josephine and Madame X 

offered to accompany me, and we sallied forth. 
This time no mosquitoes annoyed us ; but the 
atmosphere was full of innumerable small gnats 
and flies, more venomous even than mosquitoes. 
They flew straight into one's eyes, ears, and 
mouth, and their bites produced a painful swell- 
ing. Josephine could not bear them, and soon 
returned home ; but I could not prevail on 

Madame X to do the same. She remained 

with me and was bent on the walk ; and as she 
enjoyed no walk when alone, for her sake I was 
obliged to keep her company in the dirty and 
muddy streets, leaping from plank to plank, 
from stem to stem, the wooden substitutes here 
for a pavement. 

Having made the round of the principal streets 
and places, and happening to pass by the house 

of Madame X 's sister, my companion 

stepped in and remained there, leaving me at 



2 1 4 REVELATIONS 

liberty to dispose of myself as I liked. I took 
advantage of this moment of freedom, and with 
hurried steps left the town and entered the 
adjacent forest. Here, after a short walk I 
found, to my great astonishment, a narrow road 
with traces of wheels, and this was the first road 
I had seen since I left Tobolsk. The sight, 
insignificant as under other circumstances it 
might have seemed, was to me one of the most 
endearing ones that I remember. Wonderful is 
the power of associations, but only they whom the 
force of circumstances has thrown into a dis- 
tant and strange country, and who remember 
the impression they received when seeing a 
national costume or national colours, or when 
hearing strains of a song once familiar to them 
in their native land, can form a conception of 
what I at that moment felt. Thoughts of home 
and all its endearments rushed upon my 
memory: the past started up, as in a mirror, 
before my mind, and my heart clung fast to its 
shadow. Without a moment's reflection I fol- 
lowed the course of the narrow road as though 
clasping the hand of a dear and long unseen 
friend. But alas ! the illusion soon vanished, 
and the road terminated in front of the govern- 
ment magazines. Grievously disappointed, I 



OF SIBERIA. 215 

remained fixed on the spot, with feelings like 
those experienced by a child running after a 
bubble which bursts before her eves. 

I determined, nevertheless, to continue my 
walk ; but this time diverging from my previous 
route, I proceeded along the banks of the river 
Waygulka. Before, however, I had proceeded 
very far, I came upon several Ostiak families, 
who had recently arrived at the place, and 
formed a summer encampment. Women and 
children were sitting at a large, blazing fire, 
baking their bread of rye-flour — a sort of kettle- 
bread, such as is sometimes baked with us — in 
the ashes.* The men, I found, had embarked 
on board the merchant vessels at Berezov, and 
gone to fish in the Oby gulf. Their families 
had settled but temporarily here, to be near the 
town, whence they could more easily procure 
provisions for their subsistence. 

Small huts constructed of the bark of the 
birch, not unlike the booths of our wandering 

* The Polish term for it is wychopieniek, from the 
bread being baked quickly, or as it were caught out 
of the ashes. The bread so baked is by no means 
bad ; it has a peculiar, and even superior flavour to that 
obtained by the usual baking process. 



2 1 6 REVELATIONS 

gipsies, but without either doors or windows, 
are the summer dwellings of the Ostiaks. 
They are watched by dogs, their only guardians 
and protectors. Nor do they need even this 
protection, unless, perhaps, to repel the attack 
of a bear. No artide of their property would 
tempt anybody in the world. Accustomed as 
we are, to heaps of furniture, and considering 
each of the articles in(&|)ensable, we can hardly 
conceive how little is,' here needed by man. A 
bucket, made of the bark of the birch, 
for carrying water, a basin formed of the 
same rude material, a few wooden spoons, 
and some skins of the rein-deer, are all that 
is required to supply the wants of an Ostiak 
family. 

I did not tarry long on the river side. I 
was panting for a more extended view of nature 
and longed for solitude. I turned to the right, 
and entered the forest, to examine the trees and 
plants. They were all different from ours, 
insomuch that it seemed as though I had died 
in one world and was now born anew in 
another. Everything around me was new and 
changed; nature, mankind, objects, usages, 
ideas ; all presented an altered aspect. Had it 



OF SIBERIA. 217 

Bot been for the feelings still burning deep in 
my bosom ; had it not been for the mirror of 
memory reflecting the past with colours as vivid 
as ev^*; what could have borne testimony to 
my existence? 

Here a question suggested itself to my mind. 
Whether the faculty, with which man is en- 
dowed, of preserving the memory of past 
impressions in the recesses of his soul, be a 
benefit to him or the contrary ? But as soon 
as the question arose, that very moment I 
suppressed it, as something blasphemous, with 
which I feared to taint my thoughts. The 
past, if at all dead, becomes, by means of our 
memory, so rivetted to the soul as to be one 
with it, and is incapable of being torn from it. 
God, in his inscrutable wisdom, is leading his 
creatures to ends known only to Himself, and 
often on such paths as they would of them- 
selves shrink from. Nevertheless, the results of 
this guidance prove in the end beneficial to us. 
Weak and blind as we are, let us submit and 
rely on Him. 

I wandered for some time alone in the forest ; 
but was afraid to penetrate too far into it, lest I 
should lose my way. I came within sight of 



218 REVELATIONS 

an Ostiak yourta, much larger and more 
extensive than any I had seen before. The 
door stood ajar, as though inviting my notice, 
and I entered. The hut was constructed of 
large trunks of wood, half sunk in the earth 
and without windows. The roof was likewise 
covered with logs of wood, helped with earth. 
In the middle of the roof was an opening for 
emitting smoke, and at the same time serving, 
in conjunction with the door, to admit the light 
of day. In one of the corners was a fire-place, 
and a fire was continually kept up for the 
double purpose of cooking and keeping off 
mosquitoes. Over the fire, which was blazing 
fiercely, hung an iron kettle, with fish boiling in 
water sprinkled with rye-flour, the customary 
dish of the Ostiaks, and which is called 
hurdiuk. They eat it without the addition 
of either salt or bread. 

At the furthest side, by the wall, lay logs 
of wood, cut equally, and arranged regularly 
in the shape of sofas or benches. This rough 
furniture was covered with rein-deer skins, . and 
evidently served as seats and couches for the 
' residents. Near the wall on the right stood a 
capacious chest, protected all over with a cover- 



OF SIBERIA. 219 

ing of tin, and beside it two coflfers of similar 
shapes, but smaller in size, containing probably 
all the wealth of the master of the house. With 
the exception of these articles, the domestic 
utensils were nearly the same as those described 
in the yourta of the poorer Ostiaks. In a 
comer stood a bucket made of the bark of the 
birch, a wooden basin, spoons, ladles, and some 
plates and tubs, likewise of wood. I found in 
the yourta a man and a girl ten years old, both 
in a nude state. The man perceiving a stranger 
coming in, drew over his shoulders, as quickly 
as he could, his malca ;* but the girl made not 
the slightest attempt to arrange her toilet. I 
could take but a hasty survey of the interior of 
the miserable hut, as the intolerable and suffo- 
cating stench made me soon retreat into the 
open air. The Ostiaks smell atrociously, and 
this with a smell peculiar to them. After 
staying in a house for awhile, the rank effluvium 
an Ostiak leaVes behind, despite airing and 
fumigation, is sure to remain for a whole day. 
His dress of rein-deer skins, prepared by a 
certain process with the fat of the fish, which 

* The malca is a shirt of rein- deer skin, worn by the 
Ostiaks inside out. 



220 REVELATIONS 

» 

even in its freshest state is very unpleasant, 
together with his rancid food and the constant 
smoke in which he is enveloped day and night, 
form such a combination of odours as is suffi- 
cient to infect the whole atmosphere around 
him. 

The abominations which he employed as his 
food surpass all description. Not to mention 
raw fish, which is considered a great dainty 
by all the people of that region, they eat raw 
meat, the blood and the entrails of any animal, 
whether alive or dead, and fish in a putrid 
state. They devour also foxes, crows, magpies 
and squirrels. 

The Ostiak settlers in the vicinity of Berezov, 
when pressed by hunger, come into the town 
with a lukosnek* in their hand, or with a kettle 
hanging on a stick from their shoulders, and 
beg at the houses of the Russians. The women 
of Berezov, from whose threshold a poor person 
is never sent away without relief, but by whom 
the Ostiaks are regarded as the lowest order of 
mankind, give them scraps remaining from 
yesterday's meal, mouldy bits of bread, handfuls 

* The lukosnek is a kind of wicker hamper, or basket, 
made of the bark of the birch. 



OF SIBERIA. 221 

of flour, entrails of animals and all sorts of oflFal, 
with dish-water or water in which ducks and 
fish have been washed, and all these disgusting 
things are equally acceptable to the hungry 
Ostiak. After he has collected a sufficient 
budget, he commonly takes his seat in the 
street, and within sight of the public greedily 
devours the mess. I have sometimes happened 
to pass rather close to some of these poor 
creatures, and the smell of the feast has been 
perfectly poisonous. My only resource was to 
stop my nose with my hand, and run away as 
fast as I could. 

Here I cannot help saying, that the Bere- 
zovians in general, of Russian extraction, and 
even the richest not excepted, are by no means 
fastidious in reference to smell, as if suflFering 
under a complete obtuseness of the olfactory 
' organ ; for however careful they may be in 
keeping their dwellings, and especially their 
upper apartments, airy and clean, they do not 
extend the same care to their kitchens. They 
are not particular in clearing the meal of yester- 
day fi-om the saucepans and other cooking 
utensils, but put in fresh meat on the remains, 
and so they go on from day to day ; and if 



222 REVELATIONS 

remonstrated with on this point, they say only 
that it is just the same, and quite as dean. 
Nor do they evince any aversion to eating the 
rankest dishes, such as have become quite un- 
bearable by their corruption and smell, and call 
them only kwasnoy (sour). 



OP SIBERIA. 223 



CHAPTER XV. 

Terrific storm — Thoughts of home — A Siberian soirj^e — 
Sumptuous supper — The stirrup cup. 

Among such people, and in this solitary 
place, I watched eagerly for some intelligence 
from my loved and distant home, but post 
after post arrived, and brought me only dis- 
appointment. Was it that no echo could reach 
me any more from the world of my soul? 
Perhaps those whom I so tenderly loved, did 
not even know in what part of the world I 
existed. Perhaps they know not whither to 
waft to me their regrets and sighs. I let no 
post quit without writing to them, but could 
not be certain whether a single word of mine 
would ever reach their hands. But to wait 



224 REVELATIONS 

and to hope were not without a solace amid the 
agony of my longings. 

As July opened, the air again grew very 
sultry. And what deluges of rain came down ! 
Never in any country have I seen such tre- 
mendous torrents. The rain poured down 
like a water-spout, and without intermission. 
The lightning and thunder were terrific, and 
the deep resounding explosions inspired an 
intense feeling of awe. But here all is extreme : 
extreme heat and extreme cold ; extreme dark- 
ness, and extremes of light; and so even 
rain and thunder and lightning. While the 
storms raged, the whole family of our host 
assembled in our drawing-room, because in 
it were the images of their household saints. 
Before these they ranged lighted tapers, and 
addressed the saints with bows and supplications. 
Our host's daughter, a young girl of fourteen, 
read the Gospel; the aged father communed 
in his mind, and prayed in silence; his wife 
from time to time looked through the window 
to see whether the neighbouring edifices were 
not blazing in fire. Her face was impressed 
with solicitude, not unmixed with apprehension ; 
and at every clap of thunder, the heads of 



OF SIBERIA. 225 

all were bowed down to the ground. It was 
evident that they trembled for the life which 
was dear to them ; and as fearing to lose what 
they most prized. Alas ! why did this feeling 
not agitate me? At these awful moments, 
I could only feel that if the sun and the stars 
were to be wrenched from their places, and 
the whole wonderful firmament dislocated, it 
would scarcely rouse me from my apathy and 
torpor. Could even this revolution of the 
whole of nature in any way affect me ? Did 
the world in which I still existed belong to 
me ? or had I anything to do with it ? No, 
save the soothing hope of, perhaps, pressing 
my dear children once more to my breast, 
save that sole, fondly cherished hope, which 
it pleased God in His great mercy to infuse 
into my heart, I had nothing to live for. 

Oh ! could I have been but certain that my 
soul, when emancipated from the bonds of this 
body, would soar on its well-known track 
to those who are so dear; could I but be 
sure that it would share in common with 
them the same emotions, reveal itself by 
the same aspirations, ward off from them all 
dangers, fortify them in the struggles of life, 

VOL. I. Q 



226 REVELATIONS 

or comfort them in adversity — the prospect of 
death would have been indeed welcome to me. 
It would then have proved but a guiding star to 
Hope, now alone illumining with her soft light 
the dark path of my cheerless existence. O 
Heavenly Father ! pardon thy child's thought, 
and be it far from any intent of offending thy 
divine majesty. 

The thunders gradually hushed; lightning 
no longer rent the heavens ; the black clouds 
were swept away, although they still hung darkly 
over the lower part of the horizon ; and distant 
thunders, rolling deep, still awakened dread, but 
grew fainter and fainter with every clap. Taking 
advantage of the first moments after the tre- 
mendous rain had ceased, I went out for a 
walk. Water was running from the hills in 
torrents and streamed down from the roofs 
of houses in thick crystal ropes; while trees 
and plants drooped their heads under the big 
drops, as if beneath a weight of tears. Leaping 
from stem to stem, and from one plank on to 
another, I traversed the town and some of its 
environs ; and, after gratifying my curiosity, 
returned home wet through. 

We received an invitation from the director 



OP SIBERIA. 227 

of the police (Sprawnik), to an evening party 
at his house, on the occasion, as we afterwards 
learned, of his wife's name's day. We had to 

thank Madame X , who was our mentor 

here, that we did not commit a breach of eti- 
quette in the matter. Our invitation came early 
in the morning, which we thought strange ; but 
she informed us, that the first note of invitation 
meant nothing, but was merely intended as an 
announcement, to enable the guest to be pre- 
pared for the occasion. Between six and seven 
o'clock another messenger arrived, called the 
" Zazywatz," or reminder ; and he delivered us 
another more formal invitation. We went at 
ten o'clock, and found a numerous company. 
The male portion amused themselves in the 
first suite of rooms, by playing boston, or par- 
taking of refreshments; the ladies sat in the 
drawing-room, richly attired in dresses of most 
expensive stuffs, decorated with gold chains, 
necklaces, and brooches of precious stones and 
Oriental pearls. The only difference observable 
was in their head-dresses, by which the wives 
of the functionaries or nobles (blahorody) could 
be distinguished from those of the citizens. 
The first wore caps, the latter coloured silk 

Q 2 



228 REVELATIONS 

kerchiefs, tied in a manner to make the head 
appear in the shape of a melon. But even 
the head-gear was beginning, I could observe, 
to lose its original simplicity, as the ends of 
the kerchiefs tied on the top of the head, were 
trimmed with blond, and adjusted with pins of 
precious stones by way of supporting their 
weight ; but which, evidently, were but preten- 
sions on the part of some of the young women, 
to assimilate their head-dresses as near as pos- 
sible to those worn by the ladies of the noble 
class. The maidens occupied seats in the most 
conspicuous part of the drawing-room, under 
the images of the Saints. This is considered a 
place of honour, and is never forgotten by the 
hostess; and the highest person in rank, or 
whom she wishes to honour most in her house, 
is always led to it. 

Here I was struck with a custom which Ls 
quite at variance with our own manners. At 
Berezov, unmarried women, even the youngest 
girls, have the first honours paid them at parties. 
To them tea, cakes, and sweetmeats are oflfered 
first, and they are first presented to the rest of 
the company, and have the highest seats assigned 
to them. It is rather odd to see a girl not yet 



OF SIBERIA. 229 

in her teens taking precedence of elderly mothers, 
and quite confident that it belongs to her as a 
right. 

Before a sofa stood a table covered with all 
sorts of confectionary, preserves, dried fruit, and 
cedar nuts, and every now and then the hostess 
went round to present some of these to the 
ladies. Each of the new-comers on her entrance 
had, by way of welcome, a plate of sweetmeats 
presented to her ; and it was regularly from her 
that the new round commenced. Gentlemen 
seemed to take no delight in these delicacies, 
but made up for their abstinence in this respect 
by partaking of the wine and liquors. 

When we arrived, it appeared that nearly all 
the guests were assembled, for the servants 
commenced carrying round coffee, and after- 
wards tea. Coffee is not used at Berezov 
except on extraordinary occasions, and the in- 
habitants scarcely know how to prepare it. 
Usually it is boiled on the preceding day, and 
left through the night to clear ; then it is poured 
into the coffee urn, and boiled again. When 
handed round, the cups are filled to the very 
brim, and it is customary to pour in a little raw 
cold cream, as we are wont to do with tea. 



230 REVELATIONS 

Though the coffee was but indifferent, the 
cakes were extremely good, and indeed the 
Berezovian women excel in their pastry. They 
are celebrated for their sweet biscuits, crumpets, 
muffins, waffle, almond cakes, and a variety 
of French confectionary. They present these 
dainties, however, only to ladies ; gentlemen are 
excluded from partaking of them, as well as 
the other sweetmeats, and are restricted to 
the drinking part of the entertainment. 

Through the manoeuvring of Madame 

X , a boston table was made up, and 

another portion of the company sat down to 
the easier game of hen. They who disdained 
to take part either in the one game or the 
other, amused themselves with cracking cedar 
nuts. 

The Berezovian women take no pleasure 
in conversation. The whole stock of their 
conversational powers is limited to a few formal 
interrogations about the health of the members 
of their families, on which occasion every one 
of the members must be specified by both 
his Christian and siu-name. With these simple 
inquiries their conversation terminates. The 
answer is equally simple and brief, namely. 



OF SIBERIA. 231 

'' Slawa Bohu," (Glory be to God), and thus 
the formality is ended. 

At midnight we wished to take leave ; but 
our amiable hostess would not hear of it. She 
would not let us go before supper, and gave 
orders that it should be instantly served. At 
about two o'clock the supper came, and con- 
sisted of an immense variety of dishes, amounting 
without exaggeration, to full a hundred. And 
as every fete at Berezov offers opportimities for a 
similar display of eatables, I will, to gratify the 
curiosity of gourmands, give a description of 
at least some of them. 

Every grand feast commences with a pirog, 
a raised cake, usually with a French crust. 
On the occasion of name's-day festivals, this 
figures on the table as one of the standing 
dishes. No grand fete takes place without it. 
The whole supper is ct la fourchette. Every- 
body takes what he likes best, and eats where 
and with whom he pleases. 

Due honour being done to the pirog, the 
first entry came in, and the whole table was 
entirely covered with it. It would be no 
small task to enumerate the variety of dishes* 



232 REVELATIONS 

There were ducks, smoked and fresh — geese 
fresh and pickled, and stuffed with various in- 
gredients, and set round with jellies ; tongues 
of oxen and rein-deer, prepared in a peculiar 
manner ; heads and heels of the same animals^ 
and coloured jellies, ornamented on the top 
with a variety of neat, shining embellishments, 
and proudly reposing on layers of lemon peel, 
geranium leaves, and flowers. Little satisfied 
with the provisions which the place could afford, 
the lady in whose honour the day was celebrated, 
had procured supplies from distant parts of 
the country ; and among these figured a splendid 
ham, and a roast pig, cold, both imported from 
Tobolsk. 

The first entree having been remqved, the 
second was served. This was not so abundant 
as the first, and consisted chiefly of cutlets and 
game, with but one sweet, in which the taste 
of onion and palm predominated. As for sauces, 
this part of the culinary art might be declared 
to be stiU in its infancy at Berezov. 

The third entree was made up wholly of 
roast meat, and it would be difficult to describe 
all the dishes, so great was their variety. Every 



OF SIBERIA. 233 

kind of game that the woods and forest contained, 
was brought on the table, and it almost groaned 
beneath the heap of geese, ducks, woodcocks, 
partridges, and various species of snipes. Amidst 
this grand array, roast veal occupied the place 
of honour. 

Subsequently to this course, rice pudding 
was ushered in, with a white sauce poured over 
it. This is the only one of our puddings known 
to the Berezovians, and at no entertainment 
is it forgotten. 

These principal courses were succeeded by 
sweet jellies, clear and transparent, and orna- 
mentally served up. They would have been 
unexceptionally good, only for the quantity of 
wine and spices in them, which rendered them 
rather too pungent for the palate. At last 
several sorts of cakes were brought in, and 
with these the fete ended. 

In looking on such a quantity of food, I 
could not but murmur to myself, "c'est une 
mer a boire." It seemed impossible that so 
much could be at once consumed by a company 
of forty or fifty persons; but to my great 
astonishment, I observed that the dishes, which 
appeared first at the ladies' table, being after- 



234 REVELATIONS 

wards handed to that of the gentlemei^ all 
returned empty. 

After the last course, the lady of the house 
entered the room, carrying a tray, with a 
bottle and glasses, such as are used for cham- 
pagne. She went roimd to every one of the 
guests, beginning with the ladies, and requested 
them to drink a glass. This could not, of 
course,, be declined, as it was drunk to the 
health of the hostess. 

Even the ladies were obliged, more or less, 
to drink. The liquor was a home-made wine, 
which every lady at Berezov knows how to 
prepare. It was of a red colour, eflfervescent, 
and frothy, very much like champagne mousseux. 
It can be made of raspberries or of currants, 
with the addition of sugar and French brandy ; 
and is sweet and agreeable to the taste. It 
goes by the name of apogare. 

This was the stirrup-cup, the watchword to 
depart. After drinking it, every one expressed 
his thanks to the hostess for her hospitality, 
and without a moment's delay left the house. 

On going out all at once, we formed quite 
a crowd in the street, but as we proceeded, we 
gradually diminished in number, the company. 



OF SIBERIA. 235 

dispersing in diflFerent directions. All accele- 
rated their steps homewards, and though highly 
delighted at the entertainment, everybody, in- 
cluding the most vivacious, seemed to be 
thoroughly wearied, and at so late an hour 
to long for rest. 



236 REVELATIONS 



CHAPTER XVI. 

Marriage ceremony — Death of Colonel Krzyzanowski — 
News from home — Paulina's letter — Impressions 
during a walk. 

One morning we had a plateftd of kniazniki 
(princelings), considered a great treat at that 
period of the season. They are a kind of 
berry, peculiar to this place, and quite unknown 
in our country. They grow on a high, hard 
stalk like raspberries, but nearer the ground. 
When blooming, their blossom is of the colour 
of a rose. Indeed, they resemble raspberries 
both in colour and shape, only that they are 
browner and less succulent. Their juice, though 
somewhat pungent, is by no means disagreeable. 
They have a sweet, pine-apple scent, and make 
most delicious preserves. The woods near 
Berezov teem with these berries ; but though 



OF SIBERIA. 237 

plentiful, they cannot be easily got, as nobody 
is willing, for the sake of a few kopeks, to 
expose himself to the necessity of a fierce fight 
with the mosquitoes. 

There is another berry, called the morozka, 
in shape not unlike our wild mulberry, and 
growing, like the kniazniki, on a stalk, though 
it is a much higher one. This berry is of an 
orange colour, deepening into red on the side 
exposed to the sun. It is much harder and 
less juicy than the kniazniki, and on that ac- 
count is less esteemed. 

A few raspberries may also be found here ; 
but being rather rare, the people think it 
not worth troubling to seek them. They 
attach more value to the currants, though they 
are exceedingly sour, and their kernel hard and 
large. But in a place like this, where neither 
vegetables nor fruit can grow, every berry, be it 
ever so poor, is made a great deal of 

Hearing that a wedding was to take place 
in the town, we were curious to witness the 
ceremony; and seizing time by the fore- 
lock, went early to church, to be there before 
the young bride arrived. It is customary here 
to go to church on foot, but on the present 



238 REVELATIONS 

occasion the bride departed from the time- 
honoured fashion, and went in a telega — ^a 
common Russian cart — adorned, however, with 
a rich carpet, which was spread over it, yet the 
whole aspect of the vehicle presented the ap- 
pearance of a funeral bier, rather than the car 
of the God bf Hymen. 

The bridegroom, whom we found waiting in 
the church, went to meet his betrothed at the 
door, where they repeatedly kissed one another. 
After this they were both led to the altar, 
prepared for the occasion in the middle of the 
church. Here the priest read, and the diak 
(deacon) siing about the reciprocal duties of the 
married. There were no vows, but simply an 
exchange of oflferings by the bride and the 
bridegroom. After this, crowns were placed 
on their heads, and, thus adorned, they were 
led three times round the altar. This done, 
the ceremony terminated in the wedded couple 
again saluting each other with a kiss. 

On my return from church, I received the 
mournfiil news of the demise of Colonel 
Krzyzanowski, which took place on the 1st 
of July. I felt sore at heart ; but, upon re- 
flection, found my grief was as inopportune as 



OF SIBERIA. 239 

it was useless. Why mourn over a man who 
had outlived the best part of himself? What 
had remained to him to render life desirable ? 
Nothing — absolutely nothing ! Even the memory 
of the past, the sole treasure of the unfortunate, 
afforded no solace to him in his adversitv. 
Krzyzanowski had long since ceased to live. 
His bodily frame, once tenanted by so ardent a 
soul, had indeed, as far as the ordinary law of 
nature allowed, retained its vitality, but it 
did not represent himself Peace be to his 
ashes ! everlasting honour to his name ! 

But notwithstanding these reflections, I could 
not avoid feeling mournful ; grief hung heavily 
over me, and would not quit me. I longed for 
repose, for solitude, but could not obtain it. 
Solitude fortifies the soul as repose recruits the 
failing strength of the body. In our own 
country, when we are in grief, night at least can 
take us under its protection, throwing its dark 
mantle over us ; but here, they who suffer are 
bereft of this trusty friend. Day, unceasing 
day, is, whether they would weep or laugh, 
constantly staring them in the face. The heart 
closes before this impassive witness, who, devoid 
of all sympathy, intrudes with his bright gaze 



240 REVELATIONS 

on the privacy alike of our tears and our 
joys.* 

In the midst of this grief, the post arrived 
and brought me letters, amongst which I in- 
stantly recognized the writing of my dear 
Paulina. What emotion did it awaken within 
me ! a dizziness seized my head, and several 
minutes elapsed ere I dared to touch the long- 
coveted letter. I had most solemnly vowed, 
that during my absence from home, I would 
bear patiently whatever might happen to me, 
and would not pray to God for anything for 
myself, but only for the health and welfare of 

* These reflections of our authoress remind us of a 
malignant device of the Grand-Duke Constantine, the 
elder brother of the Czar's, which he practised on some 
of his victims at Warsaw, confined in the dungeons of 
the Carmelite Convent. In addition to the ordinary 
strong guard at this prison, some of the Cossacks of his 
body guard, with particularly bright eyes and savage 
countenances, were placed with the prisoners in their 
cells, to stare at them continually. One of my friends, 
whose life is preserved, had the misfortune, while thus 
confined, to have such a companion sitting day 
and night by his side, looking at him without inter- 
mission, and the agony he endured, as he told me, was 
indescribable. So inventive is tyranny in the con- 
trivances of torture ! — Ed. 



OF SIBERIA. 241 

my dear children. Paulina's letter, therefore, 
would contain for me a sentence of life or 
death. 

How hesitatingly I broke the seal ! They 
were all living, thanks be to Thee, O God ! 
But how was it that my heart did not burst 
with joy whilst I was reading the letter of my 
poor beloved Paulina ? — treasuring up every 
word in which she so forcibly described her own 
sufferings, the intensity of her love, and the 
sacrifice which she was ready to make for me. 
She wished — she longed to join me here. 
Could I accept such an offer ? or, ought she, 
actuated by so noble a motive, to be refused this 
solace? Could I push away a delightful child, 
when, tossed about and stniggling amidst the 
stormy billows of life, she extended her arms 
towards me, praying for a refuge on her mother*s 
bosom ? Heavenly Father ! to thee I look to 
direct me what to do ! 

Other letters arrived with Paulina's, strongly 
dissuading me from complying with her request, 
but the words of my child were still burning in 
my heart. 

" I can hardly comprehend," she wrote, " all 
VOL. I. R 



242 REVELATIONS 

that is going on here, or what we do and what 
we ought to do. A crowd of conflicting inte- 
rests and occurrences, changes of place, and 
variety of opinions and counsels, have com- 
pletely confused my poor head, and I can scarcely 
arrange my ideas. O, my dearest mother ! what 
a heavy part has God assigned me on the earth. 
But I will not murmur, nor will I complain of 
the heavy weight, which surpasses my compre- 
hension, and is beyond my strength. It has 
pleased God to impose this burden upon me, 
and I accept it. One wish only I breathe to 
Him, and that is my constant prayer that His 
protecting hand may at all times be extended 
over all our family, and that I may be one day 
allowed to unite with you. I call God to wit- 
ness, how ardently I wish for the happiness of 
all my relatives, and that I am ready to devote.' 
to them all my thoughts, as I am even now 
doing. Yet, to strengthen my fortitude, I in- 
dulge the hope that I may be one day permitted 
to join you. With what inexpressible delight, 
with what ecstacy do I contemplate this prospect. 
Then, my dearest mother, I shall on your bosom 
breathe freely, after all my troubles and anx- 
ieties. But the moments in which I can dream 



OF SIBERIA. 243 

of this happiness are unfortunately few ; other 
thoughts, and my daily duties, allow me no 
leisure. And then I am haunted by the horrible 
thought that I may not be able to accomplish 
my project, but be doomed to be for ever de- 
prived of you. Oh, how unfortunate should 1 
be, w|ere I bereft of that only consolation on \ 
earth. 

" Write me, dearest mother, that it is your 
wish that I should join you, and be assured that 
I am incapable of making a bad use of your 
permission. For if even all obstacles to my de- 
parture should be removed, and I should see 
that the well-being of my dear relatives required 
my presence here, I would then, of myself, 
willingly renounce the undertaking ; but, for 
the present, should the plan be found feasible, 
your consent to it is indispensable, both to the 
peace of my mind and our common action, by 
which alone my life is sustained. 

" Can you imagine, mother, you who are my 
only felicity, that there exist people here, who 
say that I should be committing the greatest 
folly if I were to go, and that you would your- 
self consider such a step a piece of madness. 
Beloved mother ! I am sure this could never be 

R 2 



244 REVELATIONS 

SO. Such a speech can proceed only from 
people who have no conception of the affection 
and love we bear towards each other. They do 
not know how much you love me, and I love 
you. 

" They say that you will never permit my 
youth to be buried at Berezov. But you must 
know, dearest mother, how feeble have ever 
been the bonds that united me with the world 
here, and how all here are strangers to me, and 
I to them ; and so even now, I can say I live 
here comfortless, unconsoled, but with the hope 
that I may be enabled soon to depart hence, 
and exchange this part of the world, which is 
but a desert to me, for another desert, but 
which, when with you, will prove a world to me. 
O my beloved mother ! wherever destiny may 
cast us, if we only are together, there will be 
a world — there a dear native land to us. 

" Do not, however, suppose, dearest mother, 
that in thinking of myself I am unmindful of 
my duties towards others, or forgetful of your 
own peace of mind and tranquillity. I am not 
ignorant that it is not I only who am bereaved, 
here. You know how much I feel for the hap- 
' piness of my relations ; and if for them a sacri- 



OP SIBERIA. 245 

fice on my part were required, were it even the 
renunciation of the hope of ever joining you, I 
should not for a moment hesitate, but submit 
to so imperative a call upon me — submit to it, 
perhaps, with a pang as to a great hardship, but 
yet always willingly, as far as my strength would 
permit. Three months have elapsed since we 
were informed of what was to be our own desti- 
nation, and yet my thoughts continue so con- 
fused, that I know not what account to give 
you of our projects, or what arrangements we 
are to make with the children." 

After reading my daughter's letter, and 
perusing the letters of my friends, my mind 
was absorbed by the most conflicting emotions. 
Thoughts the most opposite, the most harassing, 
tore my heart with every breath, yet left me 
quite perplexed as to what course I should take. 
On the one side, when my Paulina's image pre- 
sented itself before me — when I fancied my 
dear child, young as she was, struggling amidst 
such adverse circumstances, and opposed by a 
weight of misfortune far beyond her strength, 
then regardless of the distance, and of the 
almost insurmountable obstacles in her way, 



24 6 REVELATIONS 

and actuated solely by the instincts of my heart, 
I stretched out my arms to press her again and 
again to my bosom ; I felt that I could shield 
her tender age by my protection, and guard 
her young life from the blasts of adversity. 
But, on the other hand, when I considered the 
immensity of distance she would have to travel, 
and reflected on a multitude of incidents that 
might occur during so long a journey, I was 
frightened at the very thought, and doubted 
whether my own heart was not misguiding me.» 
I remembered, too, the rest of my children, and 
reflected on their helpless situation. In the 
state of complete bereavement in which they 
were deprived of their parents and their patri- 
monial estate, and separated from their natural 
protectors, they had but Paulina to depend upon 
— her heart and her devotedness. Feeble and 
insufficient as that support was, in such trying 
circumstances, it was still all they had. Could 
I, by sanctioning Paulina's project, deprive them 
of this ? No, no ! 

None knew so well as myself how dispropor- 
tioned was the energy of her mind to the 
constitutional delicacy of her frame. Natures 
of this kind are easier broken than bent. I was 



OF SIBERIA. 247 

afraid that my refusal to comply with her request 
might be attended with fatal consequences. 

Pondering on arguments so conflicting, I 
began almost to despair. I had not even power 
to hold up my head, and it sunk helplessly on 
the pillow. A stupor such as I had never 
before experienced quite overpowered me, and 
thus I remained for several hours. Gradually, 
however, the violence of my first emotions made 
way for impressions less painful. I remembered 
that the Father of the fatherless watched over 
my children ? And had He not hitherto pro- 
tected them with his Almighty hand, better than 
I could do with my utmost solicitude ? 

They who have never been in situations 
similar to mine, will hardly understand the degree 
of consolation I received fi*om religious resigna- 
tion. I knelt down and raised my soul to God, 
and as I prayed I grew more calm. Even my 
letters, though containing some things that 
harrowed up my soul, afforded me, in others, a 
great measure of comfort. 

I learnt that my infirm and bed-ridden mother, 
for a long time the object of my greatest anxiety, 
had recovered from her lingering illness, and 
with the resignation of a true Christian, outlived 



248 REVELATIONS 

the storms which had gathered with so much 
fury over our domestic hearth for the destruction 
of our family. I was informed that my children 
were not only in the enjoyment of health, but 
that the very disasters which had bereft them of 
parental protection, so necessary at their age, 
and destroyed all their prospects of the future, 
had only resulted in bringing their understanding 
to an early maturity ; insomuch that my heart 
throbbed with a mother's pride when I read the 
account of their conduct. To God alone is 
known what wiU be their destiny ! 

Towards evening I took a walk with Josephine. 
A strong gale of wind had cleared the atmosphere 
of mosquitoes, flies, and gnats ; and, though still 
suffering from violent headache, I felt refreshed. 
This was the fust promenade I had had at 
Berezov without being either troubled by insects 
or interrupted by intruders. Silence, solitude, 
the calm of the twilight hour, and the freshness 
of the air contributed to soothe and cheer me. 
The pleasing aspect of nature whose genial in- 
fluence I had for some time been prevented from 
fully and freely enjoying, tended in a great degree 
to revive in my bosom reliance on God, and 
trust in His infinite bounty — impressing me 



OF SIBERIA. 249 

with a belief that I was not yet His disinherited 
child. The very fact that my children were 
allowed to communicate with me and I with 
them, though at such a distance, and the 
glimpse of hope that flashed through my mind 
— uncertain and faint, yet arising spontaneously 
— that God might yet enable me to press at 
least one of my children to my bosom, threw 
light on the overcast horizon, and all the objects 
around, houses, woods, and water, appeared 
gladdened and cheerful. 

Loitering along the river side we proceeded 
as far as the Waygulka. So delightful and snug 
did I find that secluded place that I was quite 
sorry to leave it. Poor Josephine, who had 
received no news from home, was, however, too 
depressed to enjoy it. It is commonly said that 
the unhappy are apt to feel more deeply for the 
sufferings of others than those who are in fortu- 
nate circumstances. I have no wish to dispute 
the proposition, but I may observe that my own 
personal experience does not confirm it, as, in 
comparison with my own, the misfortunes of aU 
other people seem light and insignificant. 

I am, however, ready to admit, that to be 
able to enter ftdly into the state of mind of 



250 REVELATIONS 

others, we must ourselves have first passed 
through many trials. 

We lingered in our pleasant retreat as long 
as the lateness of the hour allowed, but we were 
at last obliged to wend our way home. We had 
scarcely crossed the threshold, when we came 
upon Madame X , who commenced up- 
braiding us severely for not having taken her 
with us ; and as if to add to our distraction, the 
whole house seemed in an uproar. The land- 
lady was scolding her children, the children were 
crying, and a smell of stale meat at once destroyed 
all the agreeable impressions we had derived 

from our walk. I bade Madame X good 

night, and hastily retired, seeking on my pillow 
quietness and seclusion. 

This night we had the first frost. 



OF SIBERIA. 251 



CHAPTER XVII. 

Early Autumn — Water excursion — Sand-banks — High 
tides — Autumnal aspect of Berezov — Solitary walk 
in the forest — Shamanic worshippers of larch-trees — 
Account of a woman who lost her way in the forest. 

With the opening of August, the environs 
of Berezov assumed an autumnal air. Frost 
abeady nipped the more delicate plants, the 
leaves of trees were seared and yellow, and fell 
on the ground with the least breath of wind ; 
the waters shrunk in volume, and the grass 
shrivelled. In a word, it was far advanced in 
autumn. It is, perhaps, as well, that summer 
here leaves not much to regret. 

It was now much colder, especially at night ; 
but the air was more bracing. The nights were 
also longer. 

Autumn brought one welcome gift — the gfo- 



252 REVELATIONS 

lubicaj* a berry, exactly like our own blackberry, 
the szemice,f only somewhat larger. It is 
found in abundance in the woods. We had a 
dish of these berries with cream, and found 
their flavour very pleasant. 

Madame X arranged a water exciu-sion 

on the Soswa, and being fond of water and 
boating, I gladly accepted her invitation to 
accompany the expedition. The lady of the 
director of the police promised to be one of the 
party. 

After our preparations were completed, and 
we were on the point of starting, we found that, 

in spite of all Madame X 's exertions, no 

man could be secured either to steer or to row ; 
but not in the least discouraged by this difficulty 
— for she never flinched from the execution of 
a plan on which she had fixed her mind — 

Madame X decided to dispense entirely 

with the male sex, and engaged the services of 
two stout women as substitutes. I must confess 
for myself that I should have preferred the 

* The goluhica is derived from the Slavonic, golub, a 
dove, by which term, in popular language, everything 
lovely and precious is designated. 

t French mirtelles. 



OF SIBERIA. 253 

assistance of a single man, even if he had 
been an Ostiak; but I would not throw cold 
water on the party, and I let things take their 
course. 

Madame X 's servant, as the most ex- 
perienced amongst us, was placed at the helm, 
while that lady and myself, with another woman, 
took the oars. The weather was calm, and we 
crossed the river in safety, and disembarked on 
the opposite bank, on a dry sandy spot, covered 
with thin grass and willows. On landing we 
lighted a large fire, and as we had not forgotten 
to bring with us a samovar^ that indispensable 
companion of the Berezovians on every occasion, 
we took it from our boat, filled it with water, 
and waited till it was boiling on the glowing 
embers. Up to that moment, everything ap- 
peared favourable ; but in a few minutes a 
swarm of mosquitoes alighted like a thick cloud 
on the place, attacking us with the greatest fury. 
Having exhausted every means of defence, I 
seated myself on the ground, drew my feet 
under me, and threw my handkerchief over my 
head, but though somewhat protected, the posi- 
tion was neither convenient nor pleasant, and I 
looked with impatience for our pic-nic to end. 



254 REVELATIONS 

Tea having at last been prepared, we hastily 
partook of it, when the things were again packed 
up, and we set off homeward. 

Arrived in the middle of the river, we found 
ourselves entirely freed from the mosquitoes, 
and we began to have a sense of enjoyment, 
this being in fact the only spot where we could 
obtain fresh air during the sultry season. As 
usual Madame X arbitrarily assumed dic- 
tatorship on the occasion, and prevented our 
boat from landing at the customary place in the 
bay, assuring us that she knew another much 
shorter way, and that by rowing in that direction, 
we should be disembarked close to oiu* own 
house. I had never much confidence in her, 
as I had frequent experience of the absurdity of 
her pretensions; but there were no means of 
dissuading her, and we were obliged to proceed 
in the direction she indicated. Meanwhile the 
water having fallen low, as is commonly the 
case in autumn, and we not being sufficiently ac- 
quainted with the navigation, the boat stranded 
on a sand-bank. It was no easy task to get it 
afloat again and reach a deeper part of the 
stream. This, however, was not our last mis- 
chance. Madame X determined to have it 



OF SIBERIA. 255 

all her own way, and still persisted in carrying 
us home by the shortest passage; and we had 
not gone far when we got on another sand-bank, 
and we were this time several hours before we 
could get clear of it. The sun, indeed, was now 
sinking below the horizon,- and we could not 
help murmuring at the imprudence of our obsti- 
nate guide, fearing that we should be detained 
on the river all night. At length Madame 

X consented to abdicate her authority; 

and profiting by our freedom we returned into 
the mid-channel and pushed for the usual land- 
ing, which to our great delight we soon reached, 
and just at twilight arrived home. 

When safely seated, Madame X declared 

that it was not owing to her want of skill but 
to a series of extraordinary accidents, that we 
encountered so many unexpected obstacles during 
our expedition. I did not say a word in reply, 
but let her speak as she chose, only making a 
silent resolution never to venture again on any 
water excursion with women, unless under the 
protection of men. My only souvenir of the 
trip was miserably galled hands and an excru- 
ciating pain in all my limbs, which prevented 
my sleeping all the night. 



256 REVELATIONS 

• 

The water of the Soswa had considerably 
decreased at this time, so that where a few days 
before large vessels were freely plying, we now saw 
either continuous dry land or countless islands. 
The bed of the river was not navigable through- 
out on account of the shallowness of the water. 
The mid-stream alone, except in a few deeper 
channels, could be safely navigated. 

In the vicinity of Berezov the river rises to 
such a height during the spring, that on 
meadow-land where grass is growing during 
summer, large vessels of many himdred tons 
are safely carried by the current on their distant 
voyages. What, however, struck me as most 
remarkable was, that the highest tides should 
prevail till the beginning of August, and after 
that period gradually diminish until they reached 
the lowest water-mark in the bed of the river. 
As will readily be conceived the immense forests, 
stretching far and near, all containing vast 
masses of snow, pour into the Soswa and its 
tributaries a large volume of water; but snow 
commonly disappears before the end of June. 

On the Ural mountains, and more particu- 
larly on the northern chain, snow remains indeed 
throughout the summer ; but from this source, 



OF SIBERIA. 257 

as it lies below Berezov, we can scarcely sup- 
pose that the Soswa derives any supply. For 
my own part I attribute the rise of its waters to 
so extraordinary a height, to the circumstance 
that the earth in those parts of Siberia never 
thaws to any depth, and being frozen even in 
summer is deprived of the power of absorption, 
so that the water is consequently carried in un- 
diminished volume to the sea of Oby. Another 
reason of the high tide may be the prevalence of 
the north wind from the Arctic Ocean. When 
this wind prevails even in summer, vast tracts 
of land near the river become inundated, whilst 
masses of snow and drifting ice are driven into 
the mouth of the river, obstructing its passage 
and so raising the water above its natural level. 

As the time drew near for the dispatch of 
the post, I devoted a day to writing letters. 
Unable to help my children in anything, I re- 
solved not to impose restraints on their actions. 
To my daughter I sent my consent to do what 
she thought best, convinced that the obstacles 
to her project of joining me, which I foresaw, 
would arise of other circumstances rather than 
my refusal, would render her lot easier to 
bear. Cherishing the hope of one day joining 

VOL. I. s 



258 REVELATIONS 

me here, she would be more reconciled to our 
present separation. 

Having finished my letters, I sent them to 
the Horodnitchee to be forwarded by the post, 
and went out myself for a walk. The aspect of 
everything was as dismal as can be imagined. 
The ground was strewn with autumnal leaves ; 
the grass had turned yellow and was perfectly 
withered ; the river had sunk into a narrow 
channel, leaving behind on either side extensive 
banks which but a few weeks previously had 
formed its bed. Such features imparted to the 
environs of the town a most melancholy cha- 
racter. Berezov, indeed, was now entirely dis- 
robed even of those scanty festive habiliments 
under which, during the summer months, it had 
partially concealed its repulsiveness ; and I could 
not but liken it to an ungainly old actress^ 
who, after performing the part of a young and 
beautiful princess on the stage, returns to her 
dismal lodgings in her own attire. Having thrown 
off her borrowed tinsel and wiped off the rouge 
from her shrivelled cheeks, she sits tired to 
death at the fire in her garret, in her ragged 
nightgown, and broods over the vanity of 
worldly distinctions. 



OF SIBERIA. 259 

But even the worst thing is not without its 
good side. The air, though cold, was now more 
pleasant than in the sultry summer. Mosqui- 
toes had disappeared, and we were enabled to 
enjoy without inconvenience our out-of-doors 
promenade. 

One day I went alone to the forest. On its 
outskirts I found a few fine mushrooms, wjiich 
encouraged me to search for more. I proceeded 
farther, and at length, on looking round did not 
know where I was. As the sun was not shining, 
I was deprived of the only beacon by which I 
could safely direct my steps. I began to fear 
that I should be lost, a casualty that not unfre- 
quently happens to the natives, these vast forests 
affording no clue to an outlet. At first I had 
taken my direction, as it seemed to me, towards 
the river — though even of that I was not sure — 
and as usual with those who know not their 
way, the imagination representing objects ac- 
cording to its particular bent, increased my 
perplexity. At every step I made, the forest 
appeared denser, wilder, and more sombre ; and 
a deep monotonous sound of iEolian harmony 
alone broke the solemn silence. I would have 
given worlds could I have seen anything 

s 2 



260 REVELATIONS 

animate or inanimate, that would have indicated 
to me the direction of the town, hut each mo- 
ment only bewildered me more. But convinced 
that a passive state of despondency would be of 
no avail, I continued advancing further and 
further. Uncertainty and consternation made 
the time appear exceedingly long, insomuch 
that it seemed as though I had been wandering 
for many weary hours. At length, emerging 
from the thicket, I saw before me a ravine 
intersecting the forest. I considered this a most 
fortunate discovery, and hastened to see whether 
some traces of water could not be found, and if 
so, in what direction it proceeded. In pursuing 
this track I perceived at the bottom of the 
defile a small streamlet, and presuming that it 
would sooner or later bring me to the river, I 
followed its course, as my only chance of escaping 
from the forest. At first I advanced, for some 
time, on the sloping side of the ravine, but find- 
ing my progress impeded at each step by thickets, 
and trunks of large trees, many of which, fallen 
from decay, lay rotting on the ground, I 
descended to its lowest part, where I found the 
passage less incumbered with obstacles. After a 
distance of about five hundred yards, I arrived 



OF SIBERIA. 261 

at a point where the ravine began to widen 
terminating in an open green plot of ground. 
Screened on three sides by lofty hills, this 
secluded spot yet preserved the verdure of 
summer, and contrasted strangely with the naked 
riven difFs around. It was surrounded with a 
number of stately old larch trees, overshadowing 
the lonely nook with their sombre ever-green 
branches. So picturesque was this sequestered 
place, that I would gladly have remained there 
awhile to rest myself, only for my anxiety to get 
out of the dreadful forest, and, therefore, without 
tarrying a minute, I hurried onward. 

In continuing my way through the defile I 
followed its meandering turns and kept close to 
my best guide, the streamlet ; constantly looking 
forward to see whether I could not catch a 
glimse of open ground, when, turning a sharp 
angle, to my great astonishment — I cannot say 
satisfaction — I found myself on a sudden in the 
presence of a number of Ostiaks, with their faces 
turned towards the largest of the larch trees, and 
with strange gesticulations addressing the ancient 
trunk in a language to me utterly unintelligible. 

Knowing perfectly well that the Ostiaks, ac- 
cording to their Shamanic religion, worshipped 



262 REVELATIONS 

the larch tree (modrzessi^), I instantly divined 
the reason why they were assembled here ; but 
this, far from reassuring me, only increased my 
apprehension. " They will perhaps murder me/' 
was my involuntary thought, " that I may not 
betray their secret;" for having accepted — or 
rather been compelled to accept Christianity — 
they were performing the rites of their idolatrous 
worship in secret ; and being ignorant wholly of 
their customs, I did not know to what extent I 
might not have offended them. 

Had I seen any possibility of escaping, i 
should certainly have seized it, but aware that I 
was already observed, and that there was no 
chance of my getting past the assemblage with- 
out going closfe to them, and still less of being 
able to retreat by the ravine, which, besides being 
deep, was enclosed by high cliffs, I made a virtue 
of necessity, and assuming a mien of utter un- 
concern, though inwardly trembling with fear, 
I boldly advanced towards the throng, and 
passed through the midst of them. 

The astonishment of the Ostiaks, which I 
saw depicted on their faces, was only equal to 
my own, when I found myself in their ranks. 
Not a word was addressed to me by any one of 



OF SIBERIA. 263 

them; and I was not disposed, as may be 
imagined, to break the silence. I pursued my 
way unmolested, and it happened, just as I 
had hoped, that the ravine brought me to the 
banks of the river Soswa, at no great distance 
from Berezov. In these parts losing one's way 
is an occurrence attended not rarely with loss of 
life. I became acquainted with the wife of a 
Russian employ^, whose mother one day went 
out with some friends to seek berries, and 
wandering away from her party, got entangled 
in the forest, and notwithstanding the strictest 
search, not a trace of her was ever discovered. 
I know not how it was, but after my own mis- 
adventure, I could never meet this lady without 
conjuring up a most horrible picture of her 
mother's sufferings — how she must have perished 
either by dying a lingering death, or from famine 
and exhaustion, or by falling a prey to wild 
beasts. 

I will here relate one of the shocking acci- 
dents which but a few years ago happened in 
this very district. I give it on the authority of 
a lady who acted a principal part in it, and her- 
self related it to me. The occurrence took place 
at Kondisk, on the river Oby. 



264 REVELATIONS 

At the season of gathering berries, a party of 
young females of that village went to pick them 
in a neighbouring forest. One, in her search, 
unhappily separated herself from the rest of the 
company, and some time elapsed before they 
became aware that she was missing. They then 
shouted and hallooed as loud as they could, but 
all their calling was in vain* No ans^^er was 
heard from any direction. 

Meanwhile, the straggler, perceiving when 
too late that she had wandered so far from 
her companions, and all her eflforts to rejoin 
them proving unsuccessftd, thought to make 
her way home. Accordingly, she took what 
she thought the right track, but night came on, 
and she was still in the forest. When it grew 
quite dark, and she had lost all hope of retracing 
her way home, she climbed a tree, to be out of 
the reach of wild animals and snakes, and so 
passed the night. 

The whole of the following day was spent in 
seeking to emerge from the forest, but with 
as little success as the preceding, and the poor 
creature only penetrated further into its depths. 
Hunger and exhaustion came on, and wild 
berries were the only sustenance she could 



OF SIBERIA. 265 

obtain. In vain she called for aid ; the wilder- 
ness, as if in mockery, echoed her cry on every 
side, but bore it to no human ear. Her strength 
was altogether failing, and she considered her- 
self utterly lost, while death, apparently inevita- 
ble, presented itself to her imagination in a 
thousand horrible shapes. Now she fancied 
herself dying from hunger, as the berries on 
which she still subsisted would soon disappear, 
or from cold, or under the claws of some 
rapacious beast. 

Soon she lost her voice, and could no longer 
call for help, but became with despair prostrate 
alike in body and mind. She sat for whole 
days cooped up and immoveable on the same 
spot, with patience awaiting her end. Want of 
food, as a mere craving of instinct, was alone 
able to arouse her for a moment from her torpor. 
Even when thus urged she unwillingly dragged 
her heavy limbs along, and having advanced a 
few steps from the spot, no sooner appeased her 
hunger with a few berries, than she relapsed 
into her previous apathy. In this condition she 
remained for no less than eight days. 

On the ninth day, while snatching some 
berries from a tree, she heard at a distance a 



266 REVELATIONS 

rustling sound, like that made by a person 
making their way among dry branches. She 
listened, and as the sound fell on her ear more 
and more distinctly, she began to hope that it 
drew nearer. How full of moment to her was 
the anxious interval, as with each sound a dis- 
tracting hope of deliverance rose in her mind. 

After some minutes of intense expectation, 
alternating between hope and despair, the 
branches of the thicket parted, and she beheld a 
bear. Her first emotion was intense terror. 
Had she possessed sufficient strength she would 
have taken flight, but this desire instantly gave 
way to a different sensation : " God, in His 
great mercy," she murmured, "perhaps sends 
me a speedy end, instead of a protracted linger- 
ing death," and possessed by this impression she 
resigned herself to her fate. 

The huge beast of the forest came within a 
few paces of the spot where she was. Calm and 
immoveable, agitated by no earthly desire, and 
nothing daunted, she stood resigned before him, 
a perfect statue of patience. After contem- 
plating her a moment, the animal with an air of 
gravity turned away, and resumed his progress 
through the wood. The consternation which 



OF SIBERIA. 267 

the incident had inspired was now dispelled, 
and was succeeded by reflection. The first idea 
that rose in her mind was the belief prevailing 
among the natives, that a bear appearing to a 
wanderer is sure to lead him in the right path. 
This flashed across her brain with the velocity 
of lightning. Hope revived, and with it her 
courage ; and as the bear moved on with slow 
steps, she followed him as close as her de- 
bilitated state would allow. The bear continued 
his rambling walk, casting at times his look 
behind, but though he saw her following, he 
neither increased nor diminished his pace. At 
last her strength completely failed, and the un- 
happy woman felt that she could go no further, 
and would be obliged to relinquish her guide. 
After a few tottering steps in advance, she was 
so overpowered with fatigue as to be compelled 
to sit down, and at this instant she saw the 
bear suddenly trot away, and disappear in the 
thicket. 

Grief too keen to describe now overwhelmed 
her, as she was thus deprived of her last hope. 
The extreme exhaustion of physical powers was 
rendered more insupportable by great thirst, 
and to allay it she was compelled to look round 



1 



268 REVELATIONS 

for some berries. As she did so, she perceived 
through the branches of the trees something 
shining like water. She drew nearer, and with 
joy saw a stream of running water at a short 
distance. She knew well that by following the 
course of the stream she would finally arrive 
at a larger river, and human settlements being 
always on the banks of rivers, would have a 
chance of being saved. The hope gave her 
strength, and gathering a few berries to refresh 
her, she proceeded onwards. 

Night once more overtook her in the forest ; 
but on the morning of the next day she suc- 
ceeded in reaching the spot where the stream 
emptied itself into the river. Not knowing 
now what direction to take, she sate on the 
shore, hoping that some boat might pass from 
which she could obtain help. In this expecta- 
tion, she watched the whole day, but in vain ; 
no boat was to be seen. 

^ On the following day, the twelfth since she 
had left home, she heard to her great joy the 
barking of dogs and occasional volleys of fire- 
arms. Fain would she have shouted for assist- 
ance, but she had altogether lost her voice, and 
even at a few paces distance no one could hear 



OF SIBERIA. 269 

the loudest cry that she could utter. Mus- 
tering all her remaining powers, she endea- 
voured to reach the spot from which the firing 
seemed to proceed, and which appeared to be 
near at hand. But she was not so fortunate 
as to meet any of the hunting-party ; as the 
hunter, after he has fired, never remains in 
the same place, but advances to another, and 
thus, instead of meeting him where she ex- 
pected, the faint, helpless woman could scarcely 
detect the scent of the gunpowder, and was 
again perplexed as to what direction she should 
pursue in search of him. 

At last even the report of fire-arms grew more 
and more faint. From fear of losing sight 
of the river, she did not venture to go any 
farther, but returned to her former resting-place. 
Finally, all around relapsed into deep silence, 
and hope seemed to vanish for ever. In this 
painful condition, mourning bitterly that fate 
should so tantalize her, holding out a prospect 
of rescue and then destroying it, her eyes, lan- 
guid and faint, involuntarily turned to the river, 
as if from that quarter alone she could hope 
for succour. How great, how imspeakable 
was her joy, when she descried a boat. She 



270 REVELATIONS 

made an effort to shout, to apprise its inmates 
of her forlorn condition, but without success, 
as her voice was powerless. Her despair was 
now indescribable, as she thought that the last 
opportunity of deliverance would pass by, and 
leave her to a most horrible death. In this 
dilemma she tore branches from the trees, and 
flung them in the water, hoping to attract 
attention by the splash; but thrown by so 
feeble a hand, this was not to be expected. 
She would have readily flung herself into the 
stream, if she had thought that the splash 
would have been heard, but a moment's reflec- 
tion convinced her that the boat was at too 
great a distance for this to be possible. 

The boat was now nearly abreast, and in 
another minute would pass by, when an idea 
struck her, which she instantly proceeded to 
realize. She had a red silk kerchief on her 
head, and this she immediately pulled off, and 
tying it on a long stick, waved it in the air. 
Most fortunately, the signal was perceived. The 
boat made for the shore, and took her on board. 

The boatmen belonged to the same party as 
the huntsmen, whose firing she had so recently 
heard, and both had been sent out in search of 



OF SIBERIA. 271 

her. Her husband, children, and relatives had 
from the moment of .her disappearance, been 
unremitting in exploring the forest ; and when 
all their exertions proved unavailing, the whole 
population of Kondisk had been called upon to 
continue the search. Friends, neighbours and 
acquaintances turned out in a body to scour the 
inmost recesses of the forest. One party pene- 
trating the thickets, shouted and discharged 
their guns, to apprise her of their presence, and 
in what direction she should seek them. Another 
went on the river, as the universal highway, and 
the safest, to which all who happened to lose 
themselves were accustomed to turn their steps, 
as their only trustworthy path in this vast wilder- 
ness. But, as if fortune were adverse, just at 
the moment when the unhappy woman per- 
ceived the boat, the boatmen were obliged, from 
the peculiar character of the navigation, to keep 
on the opposite side of the river at a considerable 
distance from her ; and had they not been so 
unremittingly vigilant, looking for her in every 
possible direction, she must have miserably 
perished. 

In this extraordinary manner, after twelve 



272 REVELATIONS 

days' absence from home, the poor woman was 
restored to her family, aad I might almost say 
to life. Famished and worn out, she was also 
so altered in appearance, as to be scarcely re- 
cognisable, and looked more like a skeleton than 
a living being. 



•* 



OF SIBERIA. 273 



CHAPTER XVIII. ' 

The library at Tobolsk — Popularity of novels at Berezov 
— Tale-tellers — Samoiedes — Their tents, habits, and 
religion — Tragic incident at Samarov — Kapustka 
f^te — Anna Piotrowna — Public opinion on seduction 
— Alarm at the appearance of a be£u:. 

Rainy days were raw and cold within, and 
out of doors made everything look gloomy and 
mournful. Fortimately for me in such weather, 
I had become passionately fond of working on 
canvas ; and to "this occupation, trifling as it 
may seem, I was indebted for the most agreeable 
hours spent at Berezov. This kind of work con- 
centrated my ideas, so that they diverged neither 
to the past nor the future, but were all directed 
to the task before me. The counting of threads, 
the stitching, and the sorting of the colours, do 
not allow leisure for abstraction; and the in- 

VOL. I, T 



274 REVELATIONS 

crease of the work beneath one's fingers gives 
an impulse to perseverance. 

It is twilight. Reluctantly I rise from my 
working-frame. I cannot take any out-door 
exercise to close the weary day — nor can I 
for a moment stir from my chamber. The 
heavy rain falls with increased violence, and the 
streets stream with mud. I pass the " grey 
hour" of twilight in pacing the room in silent 
meditation. Ah, my meditations that I revolve 
in my solitude, they bring a whole world 
into my soul, calling into my presence, to this 
my lonely abode, glimmering with the last faint 
light of parting day, so many dear reminiscences, 
appearing for a moment, and then vanishing 
like shadows of a magic lantern. 

Light is brought in. I must again think in 
what manner I may best spend the evening. 
Then sleep, that beneficent refresher, with its 
enchanting wand, may close my eyes, and con- 
jure up, perhaps, in its bold pencilings and vivid 
colours, all the images which I so fondly cherish, 
and can only surrender with my existence. 
- In a coimtry where there is no development 
of mind, and no intellectual way of passing the 
time, it was a most fortunate circTunstance for 



OF SIBERIA. 275 

me, that, after all, I had a tolerable supply of 
books at my command. These are procured 
from Tobolsk, where there is a small library 
consisting of Polish, French and other works. 
It was founded by Count Peter Moszynski who, 
having possessed a copious collection of books, 
left it, on his return from banishment, for the use 
of those who might be similarly situated. The 
original collection has been enlarged by yearly 
accessions of new publications, which are pro- 
cured from St. Petersburg by means of voluntary 
subscriptions for that purpose, made among the 
few Tobolsk literati, according to their ability. 
The books are kept in a building assigned to 
them, forming as it were a public property; and 
every subscriber has a right to take home such 
works as he may choose. In case of any one 
desiring to withdraw his contribution from the 
establishment, he is at liberty to take from the 
library books to the value of the amount. It is, 
however, seldom, that any of the subscribers, on 
quitting the place, avails himself of this liberal 
regulation. 

I found more books at Berezov than I had 
at first anticipated. They consisted chiefly 
of novels, written originally in Russian, and 

T 2 



276 REVELATIONS 

also translations from other foreign languages. 
It may be true, that these works had found 
their way here accidentally, and that love of 
Jiterature had nothing to do with their im- 
portation. Still they nrict with an hospitable 
reception, and I have observed that the taste of 
the inhabitants for romantic tales and stories of 
life is more general than is, perhaps, imagined. 
They derive such a relish from all that is 
wonderful and extraordinary, that there is not 
a family that has not its favourite baiar (story- 
teller), for the amusement of the domestic circle 
during the long evenings of winter. No sooner 
does this story-teller make his appearance, and 
take his privileged seat, than all the inmates 
of the house — master, children, servants, often 
even neighbours, old and young — hasten to 
gather round him. They take their places as 
they best can — some on chairs, some on benches, 
or on the floor, eager not to lose a word of the 
coming recital. By dint of constant repetition, 
the stories and fables related are not unknown 
to the assembled audience ; and indeed they 
know them almost by heart, insomuch, that, 
in case of any passages being omitted, or any 
deviation made from the well-known text, the 



OF SIBERIA. 277 

narrator is often corrected even by children. 
Nevertheless, these familiar tales are listened 
to with as much attention and delight, as 
though they were entirely new. 

Most of the stories are of Russian origin ; and 
when told, portions are accompanied — like the dif- 
ferent stanzas in some' songs — by a sort of uni- 
form refrain composed chiefly of words without 
any meaning, but which, after some parts of the 
narration, are constantly repeated, and even the 
more frequently from being more absurd. With 
respect to the novels, the more exaggeration 
and wond**rs, and the less probability they 
contain, the more are they admired. Some 
that I read, I found to be such a combination 
of absurdity and nonsense, that I was amazed 
how in the present age such trash coxild be 
written or thought worth publishing. 

Of modern novels, the best were translations 
from foreign languages. Their circulation, 
however, was limited, as but a small number 
of the fair sex, were able to read with any 
fluency — reading being an accomplishment rarely 
met with here even among men, and still more 
rarely among women. As to the fair readers, 
they were considered great luminaries, though 



278 REVELATIONS 

really incapable of either reflection or argument. 
Any passages in their books having sublimity 
or delicacy of sentiment are skipped, and can 
neither warm their imagination nor touch their 
hearts. What is called platonic love, or the 
sentiment of honour in the sense understood 
by us, are entirely beyond the limits of their 
comprehension. They may excite cmiosity, 
but awaken no sympathy. A man capable of 
staking his life in order to redeem his pledged 
word, though pledged, as is often the case, in- 
considerately ; or a woman ready to devote the 
whole of her life to the man she loves, and 
maintaining that love sacred because she has 
inwardly vowed it in her heart, are accounted 
by them to be merely visionary conceptions, or at 
best incidents long banished from this sublunary 
world. Totally unable to undeistand how such 
high sentiments can become the mainspring of 
action, they consider them fabulous, like the his- 
tories of the paladins of old, who, single-handed, 
encountered armies of forty thousand men in 
battle, or who could take strong fortresses without 
the aid of a single soldier. Literary produc- 
tions of this and the like romantic stamp, are 
eagerly devoui'ed and much admired by the 



OF SIBERIA. 279 

Berezovians, and are also judged, as I have 
just hinted, not after our European, but by 
their own peculiar standard of criticism. 

On paying a chance visit to a Siberian lady, 
and finding her sitting with a book by Chateau- 
briand or d'Arlincourt in her hand, as I have 
frequently done, I at first felt the greatest 
astonishment. But when I heard this same 
literary lady, whom I found poring over the 
pages of these authors, address her waiting-maid 
in a torrent of coarse abusive language, which 
no market-woman in our towns would use 
without blushing, I felt that she could not 
possibly understand what she was reading. 

The Samoiedes, from the shores of the Frozen 
Ocean, arrive here in August to fetch corn- 
brandy, or whisky. Berezov is the last northern 
point in the government of Tobolsk, where that 
article can be obtained from the government 
stores. All the inhabitants of this cold clime 
betray an excessive proneness for intoxication, and 
therefore the Government deem it right to 
restrict the use of ardent spirits as much as 
possible by means of most stringent regulations 
framed for that purpose. Illicit importation of 
whisky into the interior is severely forbidden. 



280 REVELATIONS 

except what can be bought from the stores of 
this place, and it is even fixed by law what 
quantity of spirits can be obtained from the 
stores, either for private use or for sale. But, 
as it commonly happens in Russia, the intention 
of the law is set aside, and its best provisions 
defeated. The passion of the Ostiaks and the 
Samoiedes for intoxication is so strong, that 
they will travel a hundred versts for no other 
purpose than to muddle their heads with whisky, 
and thus large cargoes of it are smuggled to 
their settlements from other parts. 

The Samoiedes* are taller and much finer 
men than the Ostiaks. Their hair and eyes 
are black, which is rather uncommon in the 
population of these parts. They shave their 
heads below, leaving some hair on the top, and 
this they comb down on the forehead. They 
do not allow their beards to grow, and it is 
customary both with themselves and their neigh- 
bours, the Ostiaks, to tear their hair out by the 
roots while it is young, and then it does not 

* The term Samoied is Slavonic, and signifies self- 
eater. But whether these people were ever cannibals is 
not ascertained ; now, at least, no such crime can be 
laid to their ch£irge. 



OF SIBERIA. 281 

grow again. Their language is different from 
that of the Ostiaks. They speak with a nasal 
twang, and very indistinctly; not from any 
defect in their organs of speech, but from a 
peculiarity of their idiom. In their costume, 
the Samoiedes do not much differ from the 
Ostiaks. Their dress consists of reindeer skin, 
with the only difference that that of the 
Samoiedes is arranged with more care and taste. 
The Samoiedes occupy the principal part of 
Western Siberia, extending their nomade settle- 
ments along the shores of the Frozen Ocean, 
from the Uralian Mountains to the river Lena. 
The whole extent of the territory inhabited by 
their tribes is marshy to such a degree, that it 
ife devoid of all forests, as none of the larger 
trees, with the exception of osiers, can grow on 
the boggy ground. In this respect they are by 
far worse off than the Ostiaks, who are favoured 
with plenty of fuel, and are protected by large 
forests from the cold. The miserable osiers and 
low brushwood are all that the Samoiedes have 
for fuel, while small tents of reindeer skins, 
pitched on snow, are their only refuge from the 
weather. These tents are of a comical shape, 
and in their language are called tchoum. They 



282 REVELATIONS 

are transportable from place to place, which 
operation is performed several times in the 
course of the year, or rather as frequently as 
the necessity of hunting or fishing may require. 
Under such wretched shelter, children are bom 
and brought up ; and, what is most wonderful, 
they are healthy and robust. Fishing and 
hunting are the Samoiedes' only means of 
subsistence. They sometimes keep a consider- 
able number of reindeer, which in years when 
the chase and fishing fail, are appropriated for 
food. 

It is on the extensive marshy plains along 
the shores of the Frozen Ocean, occupied by 
the Samoied tribes, that the valuable white 
reindeer are found in greatest number, and 
they constitute the principal object of commerce 
in that region. The natives hunt these animals, 
and their skins represent money, by means of 
which all other commodities are obtained. 
Various species of foxes, which fetch high 
prices, also come from this district, as do blue 
cams lopagas, ermine, and ducks called gagarki, 
the down of whose necks is very much prized 
for its exquisite beauty, and after imdergoing a 
certain process, is used to ornament pelisses. 



,0F SIBERIA. 283 

The costume of the Samoied women is, with 
some trifling distinctions, nearly the same as 
that of the Ostiak women. They wear girdles 
round the waist, ornamented in front with large 
plates of brass, emblazoned with various figures. 
The plates are commonly of a circular form, 
and broad enough to cover nearly the whole of 
the chest. From these hang strings of beads 
and sounding pieces of metal, which dangle 
about in front. Bells are often fastened as 
ornaments to the elbows. 

The Samoiedes are to this day idolaters, foU 
lowing the tenets of their ancient Shamanic 
religion. They worship the sun, the moon, and 
the works of nature, in so far as these engage 
their attention, either by their uses or their 
beauty. A beautiful tree, a stone, a river, or a 
lake, if it captivate their eye, at once secures 
their reverence and adoration. Their religion 
has little spirituality. It teaches that the gods of 
their race are sojourning amidst them, and often 
show themselves in human form, in the Samoie- 
dan costume. These divinities take every possible 
interest in the earthly concerns of the tribes, 
warning them whether they will succeed or fail 
in their fisheries ; whether the hunting season 



284 REVELATIONS 

will be prosperous, or the reverse ; and whether 
the year will be one of famine or plenty. 

This faith is far from being based exclusively 
on ancient traditions ; it forms part of their 
actual life. At the commencement of every 
year, a rumour is mysteriously circulated amongst 
them of an augury presaging what is to occur 
in the ensuing twelve months, which is said to 
have been announced to some one by the 
national deity in person. The revelation is 
usually made on the banks of a river, or in the 
depth of a forest. The Russians themselves, 
notwithstanding their profession of Christianity, 
do not refuse belief in these prognostications, 
and admitting that a Samoied god may appear 
to a Samoied, they urge only that he is inferior 
to the Christian God. In proof of this, many 
most absurd stories are circulated, and foolishly 
received as gospel truths. Among these is one 
relating how an Ostiak god, meeting a Christian 
priest, challenged him to a contest of skill in 
working miracles, which was accepted by the 
priest; and after many marvellous efforts on 
the part of the Ostiak god, he was, of course, 
to his great vexation and shame, completely 
discomfited by the priest. 



OF SIBERIA. 285 

On the last day of August, the frost was so 
intense that the ground was frozen as hard as it 
is in Europe in the month of December. Vessels 
which had been out to the sea fisheries began 
to return home ; and among the arrivals was our 
landlord, who I expected would have brought a 
large cargo of fish ; but all that he caught had 
been salted and sold to the merchants of Tobolsk. 
The Berezovians never eat salt fish, and speak 
of it with disgust. 

The returned ships brought intelligence of 
one of the most tragic events which had occurred 
here within memory, and it engrossed the whole 
attention of the public for some time. A mer- 
chant of Samarov, a place I have before men- 
tioned, was with his vessel at the fisheries in the 
Oby Gulf, and was returning home with a cargo 
of salt fish, with the intention of proceeding 
afterwards to Tobolsk, according to his annual 
custom, to dispose of it. Arrived, however, 
within a short distance of Samarov, his vessel 
stranded on a sand-bank, and from want of 
proper succour was wrecked, and aU the cargo 
lost. The merchant and crew were saved, and 
came on in two small boats to their native 
village. 



286 REVELATIONS 

To give him a good reception on his r«toni 
his wife, according to the custom of the coimtr] 
on similar occasions, had the samovar and tes 
awaiting him, and his neighbours came in a 
body to join in the welcome. The arrival of a 
vessel in so lonely a locality is always reckoned 
among important events, and usually attracted 
the curiosity of everybody in the neighbourhood. 
But all this attention and friendly demonstra- 
tion of sympathy had no effect on the merchant. 
They could not dispel from his mind the dark 
melancholy caused by the loss he had sustained. 
In vain his affectionate wife tried to cheer, his 
neighbours to console him ; in vain his little 
son, a boy of three years, fondly crept round his 
knees, to soothe his grief. He looked on with 
tears in his eyes, and remained silent and dis- 
consolate. Before the tea was poured out he 
left the room, and only a few minutes had 
elapsed when a servant rushed in, and announced 
the dismal intelligence that his master had hung 
himself. 

On hearing this, the guests, struck with 
horror, hurried to the spot where the suicide 
was committed. They saw the merchant hang- 
ing, and instantly cut the rope ; and as he was 



I 
I 



OF SIBERIA. 287 

not entirely strangled, succeeded in recalling 
life. The disturbance caused by the event 
having somewhat subsided, the company were 
returning to the apartment they had just left, 
when a horrible spectacle burst upon them. 
The samovar had upset, and the little boy of 
three years falling under it, was deluged with boil- 
ing water, and was rolling on the floor, his whole 
body a perfect blister. The next day the child 
died. The merchant, who previously had not 
sufficient fortitude to bear up against the loss 
of his cargo of fish, was strangely enough able 
to drain this cup of bitterness, looking on his 
beloved child — ^his only son — dying in this 
dreadful agony. 

I received an invitation to an horticultural 
fete^ called kapustka (cabbage), from which it 
will be seen that that vegetable has found its 
way to Berezov, but though planted here, owing 
to the shortness of the summer, the bxilb does 
not attain any perfection. It is gathered in 
leaves, which are chopped in thin pieces, and a 
dish called barshteh prepared from them. 

The usual season for gathering cabbage is 
when frost sets in. At that time, it is cus- 
tomary for every lady who possesses a cabbage- 



288 REVELATIONS 

garden, to choose some day which may be mos 
convenient for her female relations and friend 
to come and work in her garden. The whol 
task being accomplished in one day, the fai 
labourers go in turn on succeeding days ti 
other fields to perform the same. In m; 
own case, having intimated to my landlady m] 
willingness to assist in the work, I was invitee 
with the rest of her female friends. 

We all proceeded to the cabbage«field, anc 
there cut the leaves from the tiny stalks witl 
knives, and deposited the whole of the crop in j 
room. Large troughs were then brought, an( 
filled with the leaves which we had first chopper 
and salted, layer after layer. This done, W( 
carried the salted cabbage to a cellar, and packer 
it in wooden tubs. While the process of chop 
ping was in progress, one of the party sang j 
Uvely song. Our work completed, we had tei 
and other refi-eshments. Then followed dancing 
but without music, or the attraction of mali 
partners, though the good-heartedness and cheer 
fill disposition of the company made amends fo 
all other deficiencies. 

As I took no part in the dancing, I accostec 
one of my fellow-reapers, whose expressive coun 



OF SIBERIA. 289 

tenance and delicacy of demeanour had particu- 
larly struck me. She was probably past thirty ; 
but she was stiU a handsome young woman. 
Her pale, delicate face, and her black eyes full of 
sweetness and melancholy, possessed a charm 
which I could not resist. I took a seat at her 
side, and, to open a conversation, asked her why 
she did not dance. 

" It is not for me to dance," answered Anna 
Piotrowna. " I must husband my strength, that 
I may be able to work for my two children, who 
are maintained by my labour." 

This answer made me feel still greater inte- 
rest in her. " Are you a widow ?" I inquired. 

" No ; I am married," said she. " My 
husband is in the employ of the Governor- 
General at Omsk, and, as I am told, very 
well off." 

" What occasion can there be then for you to 
work for your children ?" I asked. 

Mournfully shaking her head, Anna Pio- 
trowna replied in a tone of sorrow : " What 
can a woman do vnth a husband who is 
forgetful of his duty ? For two years he remem- 
bered the children, and sent us some money, 
but he has since entirely forgotten me and 

VOL. I. u 



290 REVELATIONS 

them. For twelve years I have been left with- 
out any resources, compelled to provide for the 
subsistence of my family ; and until my eldest 
son grows up, my labour can know no inter- 
mission. From my needle-work I have con- 
trived to give him such education as can be had 
in this town. A good and intelligent boy he 
is, employing his time at school in the best 
manner. He has learnt to read and to write, 
and I have procured him the post of clerk in 
the government office at Tobolsk, where he is 
already in a fair way of gaining his livelihood ; 
and when he writes letters to me the people 
wonder at his beautiful writing, and say that it 
looks like an engraving. I have besides to 
maintain my aged father, who is not able to do 
any work. My daughter is approaching woman- 
hood ; and ere long she may be married, when 
she will need some dowry. So much is 
expected from the exertions of one poor 
woman !" 

" Why do you not write to your husband ?" 
said I. " It is impossible that he should with- 
hold from his family the support and protection 
he is bound to give." 

" Do you think he does not know how we 



OF SIBERIA. 291 

are situated ?" was her reply. " I wrote to him 
indeed several times; but when I foimd that 
he would not answer my letters, I ceased to 
trouble him, trusting that God would take us 
under His protection." 

" If your husband refuses you and your 
children voluntary assistance, you might obtain 
it by law. You have only to draw up a com- 
plaint against him, and the government would 
order a deduction of a portion of his salary for 
the maintenance of his family." 

" Many times have I received this advice, but 
the idea of such a course is too repulsive to me," 
she replied. 

" No doubt, that is a noble sentiment ; but 
for the sake of the children, you should not 
shrink from taking this step. With a larger 
income, you might give your son a better edu- 
cation, and even get your daughter better 
married." 

"All you say is perfectly true; yet, apart 
from the aversion I feel to any such measure, 
there is another obstacle connected with it — and 
that is, my husband and myself were not lawfully 
married." 

My cheek crimsoned on hearing this confes- 

u 2 

4 



292 REVELATIONS 

sion ; I was confounded, and did not know how 
to cr)ntinue the conversation, not from anv undue 
prudery, which at my age would have ill become 
me, but from the consciousness of the pain which 
I thought that I must have caused this poiH' 
woman, in forcing her, by my untoward questions, 
to so unwelcome an avowal, which, as I imagined, 
fould not be made by any woman without the 
greatest anguish. Happily, the daughter of our 
landlady at that very moment accosted us, and 
diverted the conversation into a different channeL 
I cast a timid look at Anna Piotrowna, but, 
to my sluprise, did not perceive in her fea- 
tures any of that confusion which I experienced 
myself. 

This circumstance gave me much to think of. 
I was, I confess, quite at a loss to reconcile the 
severe propriety observed in our landlord's family 
with the respect shown by them to Anna 
Piotrowna, who was, in fact, the chosen friend 
of all. There was not a festival to which she 
was not invited, and no incident happened in 
the family, in which she, as a friend, did not 
participate. 

In the evening of the following day I invited 
our landlord to play chess with me — a game of 



OF SIBERIA, 293 

which he was extremely fond. As our game 
progressed, I purposely led the' conversation to 
the subject of Anna Piotrowna, and at the same 
time stated how much our European opinions 
would condemn her conduct. From his reply, I 
discovered that, while we visit an imprudent 
woman, seduced from the path of virtue, with 
irrevocable condemnation, ejecting her from 
society as one branded with indelible dishonour, 
without considering the extenuating circum- 
stances which might be adduced to diminisii 
her guilt, the Siberians, with primitive feelings 
of justice, lay all the blame on the seducer. If 
the woman has sought the mere gratification of 
her passion, and not a matrimonial alliance ; or, 
in other words, when both parties not being free, 
could not by any means have seriously contem- 
plated marriage ; or when the man has not held 
out a promise of this kind, public opinion treats 
the unhappy woman with inexorable severity. 
But if, on the other hand, a young woman has 
the misfortune to be abandoned, and her lover 
deserts her without any fault on her part, she 
becomes rather an object of commiseration than 
of reproof, and the man alone is condemned. 



294 REVELATIONS 

In such cases, the woman loses as little in the 
opinion of the public as would a creditor who, 
in all good faith, has intrusted his capital to a 
man who turns out a bad debtor. With respect 
to Anna Piotrowna, as no levity could be laid to 
her charge, and no fault could be found with 
her conduct ; and as she was scrupulously dis- 
charging the duties of a mother, makmg every 
possible sacrifice for her children, she received 
from all the greatest sympathy. Far from 
persecuting or despising her, the good people 
here commiserated her hard lot, and as far as 
they could, helped her to bear up against it. 
Before we had finished our game at chess, 

Madame X rushed almost breathless into 

the room, with the intelligence that her brother, 
a young merchant, had just returned from the 
forest, where he had been hunting ; and while 
traversing the thickets, had seen, at a few 
steps from the spot where he stood, a huge 
bear tearing to pieces a dark cow. Panic- 
stricken, as may easily be imagined, he had 
instantly taken to his heels, and coming 
into town, thrown every one into the greatest 
alarm. 



/ 



OF SIBERIA. 295 

The bear immediately became the only topic 
of conversation among the inhabitants. Every- 
body gave his own version of the incident, and 
the young merchant was congratulated on his 
good-luck in having escaped from the animal 
unhurt. 



END OF VOL. I. 



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BY MISS PARDOE. 

Author of " Louis XIV. and the Court of France in the 17th Century," &c 
In 3 large vols. 8vo., with Fine Portraits, 428. bound. 



*' A fascinating book. The history of such a woman as the beautiful, impulsive, 
earnest, and affectionate Marie de Medids could only be done justice to by a 
female pen, impelled by all the sympathies of womanhood, but atreng;tbened by 
an erudition by which it is not in every case accompanied. In Miss Pardee the 
unfortunate Queen has found both these requisites, and the result bts been a 
biography combining the attractiveness of romance with the reliableness of his- 
tory, and which, taking a place midway between the * frescoed galleries* cf 
Thierry, and the 'philosophic watch-tower of Guizot,' has all the pictoi^ briUiancy 
of the one, with much of the reflective speculation of the other." — Daily Newt, 

** A valuable, well-written, and elaborate biography, displaying an unusual 
amount of industry and research." — Morning Chronicle, 

**A careful and elaborate historical composition, rich in personal anecdote. 
Nowhere can a more intimate acquaintance be obtained with the principal events 
and leading personages of the first half of the 17th century." — Morning Poet, 

"A work of high literary and historical merit. Rarely have the strange 
vicissitudes of romance been more intimately blended with the facts of rod 
history than in the life of Marie de Medicis ; nor has the difficult problem of 
combining with the fidelity of biography the graphic power of dramatic delineation 
been often more successfully solved than by the talented author of the volumes 
before us. As a personal narrative. Miss Pardee's admirable biography possesses 
the most absorbing and constantly sustained interest ; as a historical record of the 
events of which it treats, its merit is of no ordinary description."-— /oAn BuU, 

** A life more dramatic than that of Marie de Medicis has seldom been written ; 
one more imperially tragic, never. The period of French history chosen by Miss 
Pardee is rich in all manner of associations, and brings together the loftiest 
names and most interesting events of a stirring and dazzling epoch. She has 
been, moreover, exceedingly fortunate in her materials. A manuscript of the Com- 
mandeur de Rambure, Gentleman of the Bedchamber under the Kings Henry IV., 
Louis XIIL, and Louis XIV., consisting of the memoirs of the writer, with all 
the most memorable events which took place during the reigns of those three 
Majesties, from the year 1594 to that of ^660, was placed at her disposal by 
M. de la Plane, Member of the Institut Royal de la France. This valuable 
record is very voluminous, and throws a flood of light on every transaction. Of 
this important document ample use has been judiciously made by Miss Pardee ; 
and her narrative, accordingly, has a fulness and particularity possessed by none 
other, and which adds to the dramatic interest of the subject. The work is very 
elegantly written, and will be read vrith delight. It forms another monument to 
the worthiness of female intellect in the age we live in." — lOuetrated Newa. 



COLBURN AND CO/s NEW PUBLICATIONS. 



MEMOIRS OF THE 

BAEONESS D'OBERKIECH, 

ILLUSTRATIVE OF THE SECRET HISTORY OF 

THE COURTS OF FRANCE, RUSSIA, AND GERMANY. 

WRITTEN BY HERSELF, 

And Edited by Her Grandson, the Count de Montbeison. 
3 Vols. Post 8vo., 31s. 6d. bound. 



The Baroness d'Oberkirch, being the intimate friend of the Empress of Russia, 
wife of Paul I., and the confidential companion of the Duchess of Bourbon, 
her facilities for obtaining information respecting the most private affairs of the 
principal Courts of Europe, render her Memoirs unrivalled as a book of interest- 
ing anecdotes of the royal, noble, and other celebrated individuals who flourished 
on the continent during the latter part of the last century. Among the royal per- 
sonages introduced to the reader in this work, are Louis XYI., Marie Antoinette, 
Philip EgaUt^, and all the Princes of France then living — Peter the Great, the 
Empress Catherine, the Emperor Paul, and his sons Constantine and Alexander, 
of Russia — Frederick the Great and Prince Henry of Prussia — The Emperor 
Joseph II. of Austria— Gustavus III. of Sweden — Princess Christina of Saxony — 
Sobieski, and Czartoriski of Poland — and the Princes of Brunswick and Wurtem- 
berg. Among the remarkable persons are the Princes and Princesses de Lamballe, 
de Ligne and Galitzin — the Dukes and Duchesses de Choiseul, de Mazarin, de 
Boufflers, de la Yalliere, de Guiche, de Penthidvre, and de Polignac — Cardinal de 
Rohan, Marshals Biron and d'Harcourt, Count de Staremberg, Baroness de 
Krudener, Madame Geoffrin, Talleyrand, Mirabeau, and Necker — ^with Count 
Cagliostro, Mesmer, Vestris, and Madame Mara; and the work also includes 
such literary celebrities as Voltaire, Condorcet, de la Harpe, de Beaumarchais, 
Rousseau, Lavater, BernouiUi, Raynal, de TEpee, Huber, Gothe, Wieland, Male- 
sherbes, Marmontel, de Stael and de Genlis ; with some singular disclosures 
respecting those celebrated Englishwomen, Elizabeth Chudleigh, Duchess (ji 
Kingston, and Lady Craven, Margravine of Anspach. 

*' The Baroness d*0berklrch, whose remarkable Memoirs are here given to the public, saw 
much of courts and courtiers, and her Memoirs are filled with a variety of anecdotes, not 
alone of lords and ladies, but of emperors and empresses, kings and queens, and reigning 
princearand princesses. As a picture of society anterior to the French Revolution, the book 
is the latest and most perfect production of its kind extant ; and as such, besides its minor 
value as a book of amusement, it possesses a major value as a work of information, which, in 
the interest of historical truth, is, without exaggeration, almost incalculable." — Observer. 

** Thoroughly genuine and unaffected, these Memoirs display the whole mind of a woman 
who was well worth knowing, and relate a large part of her experience among people with 
whose names and characters the world will be at all times busy. A keen observer, and by 
position thrown in the high places of the world, the Baroness d'Oberkirch was the wry 
woman to write Memoirs that would Interest future generations. We commend these 
volumes most heartily to every reader. They are a perfect magazine of pleasant anecdotes 
and interesting characteristic things. We lay down these charming volumes with regret. 
They will entertain the most fastidious readers, and instruct the most informed.'* — Examiner. 

"An intensely interesting autobiography.*'— Jlfomm^ Chronicle. 

'* A valuiA)le addition to the personal history of an important period. The volumes deserve 
general popularity." — Daily News. 

** One of the most interesting pieces of contemporary history, and one of the richest 
collections of remarkable anecdotes and valuable reminiscences ever produced." — John Bull. 



COLBURN AND CO/8 NEW PUBLICATIONS. 



THE MARVELS OF SCIENCE, 

AND THEIR TESTIMONY TO HOLY WRIT ; 

A POPULAR MANUAL OF THB SCIENCES. 

BY S. W. FULLOM, ESQ. 

DEDICATED BY PERMISSION TO THE KINO OF HANOVER. 

Second Edition, Revised. 1 voL Post 8yo. 



" This work treats of the whole origin of nature in an intelligent style ; it puts 
into the hands of every man the means of information on facts the most suhlime, 
and converts into interesting and eloquent description problems which once 
perplexed the whole genius of mankind, We congratulate the author on his 
research, his information, and his graceful and happy language." — Britannia, 

** The skill displayed in the treatment of the sciences is not the least marvel in 
the volume. The reasonings of the author are forcible, fluently expressed, and 
calculated to make a deep impression. Genuine service has been done to the 
cause of Revelation by the issue of such a book, which is more than a mere 
literary triumph. It is a good action." — Globe, 

** Its tone is grave, grand, and argumentative, and rises to the majesty of poetiy. 
As a commentary upon the stupendous facts which exist in the universe, it is 
truly a work which merits our admiration, and we unhesitatingly refer our readers 
to its fascinating pages." — Dispatch. 

''Without parading the elaboi-ate nature of his personal investigations, the 
author has laid hold of the discoveries in every department of natural science in 
a manner to be apprehended by the meanest understanding, but which vrill at the 
same time command the attention of the scholar." — Messenger^ 

** A grand tour of the sciences. Mr. Fullom starts from the Sun, runs round 
by the Planets, noticing Comets as he goes, and puts up for a rest at the Central 
Sun. He gets into the Milky Way, which brings him to the Fixed Stars and 
Nebulae. He munches the crust of the Earth, and looks over Fossil Animals and 
Plants. This is followed by a disquisition on the science of the Scriptures. He 
then comes back to the origin of the Earth, visits the Magnetic Poles, gets 
among Thunder and Lightning, makes the acquaintance of Magnetism and Elec- 
tricity, dips into Rivers, draws science from Springs, goes into Volcanoes, through 
which he is drawn into a knot of Earthquakes, comes to the surface with Gaseous 
Emanations, and sliding down a Landslip, renews his journey on a ray of Light, 
goes through a Prism, sees a Mirage, meets with the Flying Dutchman, observes 
an Optical Illusion, steps over the Rainbow, enjoys a dance with the Northern 
Aurora, takes a little Polarized Light, boils some Water, sets a Steam-Engine in 
motion, witnesses the expansion of Metals, looks at the Thermometer, and 
refreshes himself with Ice. Soon he is at Sea, examining the Tides, tumbling 
on the Waves, svrimming, diving, and ascertaining the pressure of Fluids. We 
meet him next in the Air, running through all its properties. Having remarked 
on the propagation of Sounds, he pauses for a bit of Music, and goes off into the 
Vegetable Kingdom, then travels through the Animal Kingdom, and having 
visited the various races of the human family, winds up with a demonstration of 
the Anatomy of Man." — Examiner. 



COLBURN AND CO.'s NEW PUBLICATIONS. 



THE LITEEATUEE AND EOMANCE 

OF NORTHERN EUROPE. 

CONSTITUTING A COMPLETE HISTORY OF THE LITERATURE OF SWEDEN, 
DENMARK, NORWAY, AND ICELAND, WITH COPIOUS SPECIMENS OF THE 
MOST CELEBRATED HISTORIES, ROMANCES, POPULAR LEGENDS AND TALES, 
OLD CHIVALROUS BALLADS, TRAGIC AND COMIC DRAMAS, NATIONAL SONGS, 
NOVELS, AND SCENES FROM THE LIFE OF THE PRESENT DAY. 

BY WILLIAM AND MARY HOWITT. 

2 Y. post 8vo. 21s. bound. * 

" English readers have long been indebted to Mr. and Mrs. Howitt. They 
have now increased our obligations by presenting us with this most charming and 
valuable work, by means of which the great majority of the reading public will 
be, for the first time, made acquainted with the rich stores of intellectual wealth 
long garnered in the literature and beautiful romance of Northern Europe. 
From the famous Edda, whose origin is lost in antiquity, down to the novels of 
Miss Bremer and Baroness Knorring, the prose and poetic writings of Denmark, 
Norway, Sweden, and Iceland are here introduced to us in a manner at once 
singularly comprehensive and concise. It is no dry enumeration of names, but 
the very marrow and spirit of the various works displayed before us. We have 
old ballads and fairy tales, always fascinating ; we have scenes from plays, and 
selections from the poets, with most attractive biographies of these and other 
great men. The songs and ballads are translated with exquisite poetic beauty.'' — 
Sun, 

** We have most cordially to thank Mary and William Howitt for their valuable 
contribution to our knowledge of the literature of Northern Europe. They have 
effected a public good. They have offered to all classes of readers a work abound- 
ing in original and entrancing interest, overflowing with varied matter — of criticism, 
biography, anecdotes, sketches, and quotations, all tending to exhibit new trea- 
sures for the gratification and enlightenment of a vast circle of minds. Our 
authors have described to us in copious and entertaining detail the romance and the 
poetry, the writings and the imaginations, of the Scandinavian races, interspersed 
vTith abundant and well-selected specimens of the historical, romantic, legendary, 
chivalric, ballad, dramatic, song, and critical literature of Northern Europe. They 
have brought to light the treasures of the illustrious poets, historians and bards 
of Scandinavia, in a work of astonishing interest.'' — Sunday Times. 

** This work teems with information of the rarest and most curious character, 
and is replete with interest to the scholar, the philosopher, the antiquarian, and 
the general reader. The subject has the charming freshness of novelty. There 
is not any other book in the English language, which presents so vivid, so 
interesting, and so accurate a picture of the manners, customs, opinions, and 
superstitions of our Scandinavian forefathers." — Morning Post. 

"A standard work on the whole subject." — Globe, 

*< A valuable addition to our literature." — Daily News. 

" A book full of infonnation — and as such, a welcome addition to our literature. 
The translations — especially of some of the ballads and other poems — are exe- 
cuted with spirit and taste." — Athenceum. 



COLBURN AND CO.'s NBW PUBLICATIONS. 



JUDGE HALIBURTON'S NEW HISTORICAL WORK. 

In 2 YoU. post 8to. 2l8. bound. 

RULE AND MISRULE OF 

THE ENGLISH IN AMERICA. 

By the Author of 
"SAM SLICK," "THE OLD JUDGE," &c. 



" A most attractive work." — Standard, 

" The cleverest volumes Judge Haliburton has ever produced." — Mestenger, 

" We conceive this work to be by far the most valuable and important Jodge 
Haliburton has ever written. The exhaustless fund of humour — quiet, yet ridi 
and racy, and at the same time overflowing with the milk of human kindnen 
— which his writings display on one hand, and the wonderful knowledge (tf 
man's character, in all its countless varieties, which they exhibit on the odiff, 
have insured for them a high, and honourable, and enduring station in Engliifa 
literature. It would be difficult, if not impossible, to arise from the penual of 
any of Mr. Haliburton's performances without having become both wiser and 
better. His 'English in America' is, however, a production of a yet moR 
exalted order. While teeming with interest, moral and historical, to the geneni 
reader, it may be regarded as equally constituting a philosophical study for the 
politician and the statesman. It will be found to dissipate many popular enon, 
and to let in a flood of light upon the actual origin, formation, and prograi of 
the republic of the United States." — Naval and MiUtary Gazette. 

"Those who wish for an accurate history of the rise of republicanism in 
America to its grand development in the United States revolution, will here find 
a narrative that is invaluable for its accuracy, its impartiality, its admirable order 
in arrangement, and that true philosophy of statesmanship which can attach to 
each incident a fitting moral, from which every honest politician can derive 
instruction. The work is one equally useful in the double aspect in which it 
may be regarded — first, an insight into the causes of past transactions - second, 
as a warning to guide mankind amid the many perplexing political questions of 
the day. The spirit of impartiality animates every page of this work. It is 
deserving of a place in every historical library." — Morning Herald. 

" We believed the author of this work to possess a power of humour and 
sarcasm second only to that of Rabelais and Sidney Smith, and a genuine pathos 
worthy of Henry Fielding or Charles Dickens. In his particular line of literature 
we believed him to be unrivalled. In the volumes before us he breaks upon a 
new, and — according to his method of breaking the subject — untrodden ground. 
We hail this book with pleasure ; we consider it an honour to Judge Haliburton 
as by it he has proved himself to be a Christian, a scholar, a gentleman, and in 
the true sense of a mis-used word, a patriot. Mr. Haliburton places before as 
fairly and impartially, the history of English rule in America. The book is not 
only a boon to the historic student, it is also filled with reflections such as may 
well engage the attention of the legislating statesman. Mr. Haliburton also 
shows us the true position of the Canadas, explains the evils of our colonial 
system, points out the remedies by which these evils may be counteracted that 
thus the rule of the ' English in America ' may be something better than a 
history of the blunders, the follies, and the ignorant temerity of colonial 
secretaries." — Irish Quarterly Review, 






COLBURN AND CO/s NEW PUBLICATIONS. 



SAM SLICK'S NEW COMIC WORK. 

In 3 vols, post 8vo. 31s. 6d. bound. 

TRAITS OF AMERICAN HUMOUI 

Edited 
By the Author of " SAM SLICK," &c. 



''We have seldom met with a work more rich in fun or more genera 
delightful."--5/an^ar</. 

" Those who have relished the racy humour of the * Clockmaker/ will fine 
dish of equally ludicrous and amusing Transatlantic wit in the volumes befc 
us." — Herald, 

** A new book, by the author of * Sam Slick * causes some stir among t 
laughter-loving portion of the community ; and its appearance at the presc 
festive season is appropriate. We hold that it would be quite contrary to t 
fitness of things for any other hand than that of our old acquaintance, t 
facetious Judge Haliburton, to present to us a Christmas dish, and call it * Tra 
of American Humour.' But even without the recollection of * Sam Slick ' 
evoke the spirit of fim vrithin us, we should have been forced to yield to t 
racy humour of these American * Traits.' Dip where you will into this lott< 
of fun, you are sure to draw out a prize." — Morning' Post, 

''The untravelled European who has not made the acquaintance of Si 
Slick, can have but little knowledge of the manners, customs, humours, ecc( 
tricities and lingos of the countless varieties of inhabitants of North Amer: 
who we are accustomed to conglomerate under the general name of Yanke 
Assisted, however, by Sam Slick's graphic descriptions, literal reports, and ra 
pen-and-ink sketches, gentlemen who sit at home at ease, are able to realize wi 
tolerable accuracy the more remarkable species of this lively family, to compi 
hend their amusing jargon, to take an interest in their peculiarities of pera 
and speech, and to enter into the spirit of their very characteristic humou 
No man has done more than the facetious Judge Halibiuion, through the moi 
of the inimitable * Sam,' to make the old parent country recognise and apprecii 
her queer transatlantic progeny ; and in the volumes before us he seeks to renc 
the acquaintance more minute and complete. His present collection of coo 
stories and laughable traits is a budget of fun fiill of rich specimens of Americ 
humour." — Globe. 

'* The reader will find this work deeply interesting. Yankeeism pourtrayed, 
its raciest aspect, constitutes the contents of these superlatively entertain] 
volumes, for which we are indebted to our facetious old friend, ' Sam Slick.' 1 
work embraces the most varied topics, — political parties, religious eccentridti 
the flights of literature, and the absurdities of pretenders to learning, all co: 
in for their share of satire ; while in other papers we have specimens of genu: 
American exaggerations, or graphic pictures of social and domestic life as it 
more especially in the ruder districts and in the back settlements, or ag 
sallies of broad humour, exhibiting those characteristics which form in 1 
country itself the subject of mutual persiflage between the citizens of diffen 
States. The work will have a wide circulation." — John Bull, 



8 COLBURN AND CO.'s NEW PUBLICATIONS. 



CAPTAIN SPENCER'S NEW WORK. 

In 2 Tols. 8to. with lUustratioiis, and a valuable Map of European Turkey, from 

the most recent Charts in the possetsion of the Austrian and Turkish 

GoYemments, revised by the Author, 288. boond. 

TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY 

IN 1850: 

THROUGH BOSNIA, SERVIA, BULGARIA, MACEDONIA, ROUIIKLIA, ALBANIA, AND 
EPIRUS ; WITH A TISIT TO GREECE AND THE IONIAN ISLES, AND A HOME- 
WARD TOUR THROUGH HUNGARY AND THE 8CLATONIAN PROVINCES 
OF AUSTRIA ON THE LOWER DANUBE. 

By EDMUND SPENCER, ESQ. 

Author of " Travels in Circassia,'* &c 

" These important volumes appear at an opportune moment, as they describe 
some of those countries to which public attention is now more particnlaily 
directed: Turkey, Greece, Hungary, and Austria. The author has given us a 
most interesting picture of the Turkish Empire, its weaknesses, and the em- 
barrassments from which it is now suffering, its financial difficulties, the discon- 
tent of its Christian, and the turbulence of a great portion of its Mohammedan 
subjects. We are also introduced for the first time to the warlike mountaineers 
of Bosnia, Albania, Upper Moesia, and the almost inaccessible districts of the 
Pindus and the Balkan. The different nationalities of that Babel-like country, 
Turkey in Eivope, inhabited by Sclavonians, Greeks, Albanians, Macedonians, 
the Romani and Osmanli — their various characteristics, religions, superstitions, 
together vnth their singular customs and manners, their ancient and contem- 
porary history are vividly described. The Ionian Islands, Greece, Hungary, and 
the Sclavonian Provinces of Austria on the Lower Danube, are all delineated in 
the author's happiest manner. 

** We cordially recommend Mr. Spencer's valuable and interesting volumes to 
the attention of the reader. They are replete with information upon countries of 
which we know but little ; they will be interesting to the military man for the 
details they give of the strength and defensive positions of the various countries 
through which the author travelled ; to the merchant for the insight given into 
the state of trade ; and to the man of the world as they place before his view the 
present political and social state of an empire, whose welfare it is the interest of 
England to promote. The work must be considered a standard production, 
enriched, as it is, by an excellent map derived from the most authentic modem 
charts, added to, and improved by the observations of the author during his 
travels." — Uniied Service Magazine, 

" A work of great merit, and of paramount present interest." — Standard, 

" This interesting work contains by far the most complete, the most en- 
lightened, and the most reliable amount of what has been hitherto almost the 
terra incognita of European Turkey, and supplies the reader with abundance of 
entertainment as well as instruction." — John BuU, 

^* An excellent and admirable work. Mr. Spencer is a very able vmter, a 
shrewd, experienced and philosophical observer, an eminently thinking and yet 
practical man. His work forms the most valuable addition that our literature has 
lately received. He sets forth to inquire and learn ; he returns to inform and 
suggest ; and information most valuable and interesting has he here bestowed 
upon us." — Tait's Magazine. 



COLBURN AND CO/s NEW PUBLICATIONS. 



REVELATIONS OF SIBERIA. 

BY A BANISHED LADY. 

2 vols. Post 8vo., 21 s. bound. 

" The authoress of these volumes was a lady of q^ality, who, having incurred 
the displeasure of the Russian Government for a politicsd o£fence, was exiled to 
Siberia. The place of her exile was Berezov, the most northern part of this 
northern penal settlement ; and in it she spent about two years, not unprofitably, 
as the reader will find by her interesting work, containing a lively and graphic 
picture of the country, the people, their manners and customs, &c. The book 
gives a most important and valuable insight into the economy of what has been 
hitherto the terra incognita of Russian despotism.'' — Daily News. 

*' Since the publication of the famous romance the ' Exiles of Siberia,' of 
Madame Cottin, we have had no account of these desolate lands more attractive 
than the present work, from the pen of the Lady Eve Felinska, wbicb> in its un- 
pretending style and truthful simplicity, will win its way to the reader's heart, 
and compel him to sympathise with the fair sufferer. The series of hardships 
endured in traversing these frozen solitudes is affectingly told ; and once settled 
down at one of the most northern points of the convict territory, Berezov, six 
hundred miles beyond Tobolsk, the Author exhibits an observant eye for the 
natural phenomena of those latitudes, as well as the habits of the semi-barbarous 
aborigines. This portion of the book will bs found by the naturalist as well as 
ethnologist full of valuable information." — Globe, 

*' These 'Revelations' give us a novel and interesting sketch of Siberian life — ^the 
habits, morals, manners, religious tenets, rites, and festivals of the inhabitants. The 
details of the author's painful journey will be perused with feelings of indignation 
and deep sympathy. The record of her residence of nearly three years at Berezov, 
which constitutes the most valuable part of her ' Revelations,' does credit to her 
heart and her understanding. Her extraordinary powers of observation, and the 
graceful facility with which she describes everything worthy of remark, render 
her * Revelations' as attractive and fascinating as they are original and instruc- 
tive." — Britannia, 



AUSTRALIA AS IT IS: 

ITS SETTLEMENTS, FARMS, AND GOLD FIELDS. 

BY F. LANCELOTT, ESQ., 

MiNERALOGICAL SURVEYOR IN THE AUSTRALIAN COLONIES. ' 

2 Vols. Post 8vo., 21s. bound. 



ADVENTURES ofthe CONNAUGHT RANGERS. 

SECOND SERIES. 

BY WILLIAM GRATTAN, ESQ., 

Late Lieutenant Connaught Rangers. 2 vols. Post 8vo., 21s. bound. 
I ^ 



10 COLBURN AND CO.'s NEW PUBUCATIONS. 



EIGHT YEARS 
IN PALESTINE, STRIA, AND ASIA MI] 

BY F. A. NEALE, ESQ., 

LATK ATTACHBD TO THE CONSULAR 8BRTICB IN 8TRI 

Second Edition, in 2 Vols., with Illuitntioni, 2 It. bound. 

** One of the 1>est iccountg of the country and people thmt has been p 
of Ute years." — Spectator, 

" A very agreeable book. Mr. Neale is evidently quite ^miHar i 
East, and writes in a lively, shrewd, and good-homoured manner. 
deal of information is to be found in his pages." — Atkememm^ 

" We have derived unmingled pleasure from the perusal of theae inl 
volumes. Ver>' rarely ha\-e we found a narrative of Eastern travel so 
and just. There is no guide-book we would so strongly recommend 
traveller about to enter on a Turkish or Syrian tour as this before v 
information it affords is especially valuable, since it is brought up almoi 
last moment. The narrative, too, is full of incident, and abonnda in vi 
tures of Turkish and Levantine life interspersed with well-told talc 
author commences his narrative at Gaza ; visits Askalon, Jaffii and Jei 
Caipha and Mount Carmel, Acre, Sidon and Tyre, Beyrout, Tripoli, j 
Aleppo, Alexandretta, Adana, and Cyprus. Of several of theae famoua 1 
we know no more compact and clearer account than that given in theae i 
We have to thank Mr. Neale for one of the best books of travela that 
met with for a very long time." — literary Gazette. 



KHARTOUM AND THE NIL 

By GEORGE MELLY, ESQ. 

Second Edition. 2 v. post 8vo., with Map and Illustrationa, 218. boi 

''Independently of the amusement and information which may be 
from Mr. Melly's interesting work, the references to the relations whii 
at this time between the Sublime Porte and Egypt are worthy of every < 
ration which statesmen and public men can bestow upon them." — Messen 

" We cannot feel otherwise than grateful to the author of these valua 
useful volumes for having kept so faithful a journal, and for giving thi 
the benefit of his adventures and experience. The manners and cus 
the natives, as well as the natural curiosities, and the relics of antiquity 
the travellers visited, in turns engage the reader's attention ; and, altoget 
book is a most entertaining and instructive vade-mecum to the interesting 
of the East of which it treats."— /oAn Bull, 



SCENES EROM SCRIPTURE 

By the rev. G. CROLY, LL.D. 

Author of " Salathiel," &c., 1 v., 10s. 6d. bound. 

" Eminent in every mode of literature, Dr. Croly stands, in our judgmc 
among the living poets of Great Britain — the only man of our day entitle! 
power to venture within the sacred circle of religious poets." — Standard. 

"An admirable addition to the library of religious families." — Jokm Bui 



COLBURN AND CO.'s NEW PUBLICATIONS. 11 

NARRATIVE OF 

FIYE YEAES' RESIDENCE AT NEPAUL. 

By captain THOMAS SMITH, 

Late Assistant Political-Resident at Nepaul. 2 v. post 8yo. 21s. bound. 

" No man could be better qualified to describe Nepaul than Captain Smith ; 
and his concise, but clear and graphic account of its history, its natural produc- 
tions, its la\vs and customs, and the character of its warlike inhabitants, is yery 
agreeable and instructive reading. A separate chapter, not the least entertaining 
in the book, is devoted to anecdotes of the Nepaulese mission, of whom, and of 
their visit to Europe, many remarkable stories are told." — Poit. 

" No one need go elsewhere for information about Nepaul. He will find it all 
arranged in this intelligent and interesting work with perspicuity and complete- 
ness. It will henceforth be the standard work on Nepaul. Captain Smith's 
narrative of his personal adventures is most exciting." — United Service Gazette, 



CANADA AS IT WAS, IS, AND MAY BE. 

By the late Lieutenant-Colonel Sir R. Bonnycastle. 

With an Account of Recent Transactions, 

By sir JAMES E. ALEXANDER, K.L.S., &c. 

2 v., post 8vo., with Maps, &c. 21s. bound. 

" These volumes offer to the British public a clear and trustworthy statement 
of the affairs of Canada; a narrative of the late troubles, their causes and 
consequences ; an account of the policy pursued in the colony, and the effects 
of the immense public works in progress and completed ; vrith sketches of 
localities and scenery, amusing anecdotes of personal observation, and generally 
every information which may be of use to the traveller or settler, and the military 
and political reader. The information rendered is to be thoroughly relied on as 
veracious, full, and conclusive." — Messenger. 

** This is the best work on Canada for every class of readers — the most 
complete, the most important, and the most interesting." — Sunday Times, 



SPAIN AS IT IS. 

By G. a. HOSKINS, ESQ. 

2 v., with Illustrations, 21s. bound. 

<* To the tourist this work vrill prove invaluable. It is the most complete and 
interesting portraiture of Spain that has ever come under our notice." — John Bull 



12 COLBURN AND CO/s NEW PUBLICATIONS. 

COLONEL LANDMAM'S ADVENTUEES 

AND RECOLLECTIONS. 

2 vols, post 8yo. 21s. bound. 

" Among the anecdotes in this work will be fSoand notioes of King George TIL, 
the Dukes of Kent, Cumberland, Cambridge, Clarence, and Ricbmond, the Princess 
Augusta, General Garth, Sir Harry Mildmay, Lord Charles Somerset, Lord Edward 
Fitzgerald, Lord Heathfield, Captain Grose, &c. The volumes abound in inte- 
resting matter. The anecdotes are one and all amusing." — Obtercer, 

" Colonel Landmann's work is written in an unaffected spirit, and contains 
matter of agreeable and lively interest.'' — Liierwy Gazette. 

** These ' Adventures and Recollections' are those of a gentleman whose birth 
and profession gave him facilities of access to distinguished society ; and the 
interest of the volumes will be found to consist in anecdotes and recollections 
relating to individual members of that society. Colonel' Landmann writes so 
agreeably that we have little doubt that his volumes will be acceptable. They 
partake, to some extent, both of the good and bad qualities of Horace Walpole 
and of Wraxall." — Athenaum, 



THE ROMANCE OF THE FORUM ; 

OR, NARRATIVES, SCENES, AND ANECDOTES FROM 

COURTS OF JUSTICE. 

By PETER BURKE, ESQ., Barrister-at-Law. 2 t. 21 s. 

'* These attractive volumes will be perused with much interest. They contain 
a great variety of singular and highly romantic stories." — John Bull, 

" Few who once take up these volumes will lay them down unread." — Exammer, 
"Nothing can be more deeply interesting or affecting than many of these 
narratives." — Observer* 



D A R IE N ; 

OR, THE MERCHANT PRINCE. 

By ELTOT WARBURTON. 

Author of " The Crescent and the Cross," &c., Second Edition. 3 v. 

" The scheme for the colonization of Darien by Scotchmen, and the opening 
of a communication between the East and West across the Isthmus of Panama, 
furnishes the foundation of this story, which is in all respects worthy of the 
high reputation which the author of the *■ Crescent and the Cross' had already 
made for himself. The early history of the Merchant Prince introduces the 
reader to the condition of Spain under the Inquisition; the portraitures of 
Scottish life which occupy a prominent place in the narrative, are full of spirit ; 
the scenes in America exhibit the state of the natives of the new world at that 
period ; the daring deeds of the Buccaneers supply a most romantic element in 
the story ; and an additional interest is infused into it by the introduction of 
various celebrated characters of the period, such as Law, the French financier, 
and Paterson, the founder of the Bank of England. All these varied ingredients 
are treated vrith that brilliancy of style and powerful descriptive talent, by which 
the pen of Eliot Warburton was so eminently distinguished." — John Bull, 



COLBURN AND CO.'s NEW PUBLICATIONS. 13 



LORD PALMERSTON^S OPINIONS 

AND POLICY; 
AS MINISTER, DIPLOMATIST, AND STATESMAN, 

DURING MORE THAN FORTY YEARS OF PUBLIC LIFE. 

1 Y. 8yo., with Portrait, 12s. bound. 

" This work ought to have a place in every political library. It gives a com- 
plete view of the sentiments and opinions by which the policy of Lord 
Palmerston has been dictated as a diplomatist and statesman.'^ — Chronicle, 

" This is a remarkable and seasonable publication ; but it is something more — 
it is a valuable addition to the historical treasures of our country during more 
than forty of the most memorable years of our annals. We earnestly recommend 
the volume to general perusal." — Standard. 



PIYE YEARS IN THE WEST INDIES. 

BY CHARLES W. DAY, ESQ. 

2 v., with Illustrations, 21s. bound. 

** These interesting volumes possess considerable merit as regards information 
on that important subject, the state of the West Indies as they are at present." — 
Sun. 

" It would be unjust to deny the vigour, brilliancy, and varied interest of this 
work, the abundant stores of anecdote and interest, and the copious detail of 
local habits and pecuUarities in each island visited in succession." — Globe. 



HISTORY OF THE 

BRITISH CONQUESTS IN INDIA. 

BY HORACE ST. JOHN. 2 v. 21s. bound. 

" A work of great and permanent historical value and interest." — Post, 
" A fair and accurate narrative of the poUtical history of British India, evi- 
dently written after careful study and laborious research." — Literary Gazette. 

" The style is graphic and spirited. The facts are well related and artistically 
grouped. The narrative is always readable and interesting." — AtheruBum, 



HISTOEY OF CORFU; 

AND OF THE REPUBLIC OF THE IONIAN ISLANDS. 

BY LIEUT. H. J. W. JERVIS, Royal Artillery. 

1 v., vnth Illustrations, lOs. 6d. bound. 

" A work of great value, from the importance of Corfd in case of an European 
war." — Literary Gazette. V;^ 

*' Written with great care and research, and including probably all the 
particulars of any moment in the history of Corfii. The principal interest will 
attach to the military details and the concluding account of the i>re8ent state of 
the island." — AtheruBum, 



14 COLBURN AND CO/s NEW PUBLICATIONS. 

ATLANTIC & TRANSATLANTIC SKETCHES. 

By captain MACKINNON, R.N. 2 v. 21s. bound. 

« Captain Mackinnon's sketches of America are of a striking character and 
permanent yalue. His volumes convey a just impression of the United States, a 
£ur and candid view of their society and institutions, so well written and so 
entertaining that the effect of their perusal on the puhlic here must be con- 
siderable. They are light, animated, and lively, full of racy sketches, pictures of 
life, anecdotes of society, visits to remarkable men and famous places, sporting 
episodes, &c., very original and interesting.'^ — Sunday Timei, 

" Captain Macldnnon's sketches of America are perhaps the best that have 
appear^ since the work of Captain Marryat, and they are far more candid and 
impartial. The volumes are crowded vnth valuable and important statements. 
The work will find its way rapidly into vnde and general circulation, such is its 
justice, candour, and accuracy of information.^' — Observer. 



NAYAL AECHITECTTJRE : 

A TREATISE ON SHIP-BUILDING, AND THE RIG OF CLIPPERS, 

WITH SUGGESTIONS FOR A NEW METHOD OF LATINO DOWN VESSELS. 

By lord ROBERT MONTAGU, A.M. 

Second Edition, wit& 54 Diagrams, 6s. bound. 

" In this able work. Lord Robert* Montagu has treated an important subject 
in the most comprehensive and masterly manner. The publication will be equally 
valuable to the ship-builder and the ship-owner — ^to the mariner and the com- 
manders of yachts. The whole science of ship-building is made plain to the 
humblest understanding, while the most valuable suggestions are given for its 
improvement in the rig, structure, and laying down of vessels.^' — U, S. Mag, 



ARCTIC MISCELLANIES, 

A SOUVENIR OF THE LATE POLAR SEARCH. 

BY THE OFFICERS AND SEAMEN OF THE EXPEDITION. 

DEDICATED BY PERMISSION TO THE LORDS OF THE ADMIRALTY. 

Second Edition, 1 vol. with numerous Illustrations, 10s. 6d. bound. 

From the " Times." — This volume is not the least interesting or instructive 
among the records of the late expedition in search of Sir John Franklin, com- 
manded by Captain Austin. The most valuable portions of the book are those 
which relate to the scientific and practical observations made in the course of the 
expedition, and the descriptions of scenery and incidents of arctic travel. Mauy 
of the latter possess considerable literary merit, and all are impressed with the 
vividness of fresh observation. From the variety of the materials, and the 
novelty of the scenes and incidents to which they refer, no less than the interest 
which attaches to all that relates to the probable safety of Sir John Franklin and 
his companions, the Arctic Miscellanies forms a very readable book, and one that 
redounds to the honour of the national character.